Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

FFP waste of time.  High mount manifold also waste of time.

You will get more power in total if you do either or both of;

  • highmount the HG turbo,
  • external gate.

But.....for your power targets neither are truly necessary.  Your likely best approach would be to mod the stock exhaust manifold to put an ext gate on the top of the collector and just low mount the HG turbo in the stock location.

You now need to go read all 599 pages of the HG turbo thread, where you will see these same things I have just told you.

Oh, one more thing.  No "chip and tune".  And not "after" the physical mods.  The car will not drive with a big turbo (and injectors) on it on stock management.  Do the ECU at the same time.  Your minimum approach there is to Nistune the stock ECU, in which case you will need a Z32 or better AFm to go with it.  Otherwise HG will happily sell you an Adaptronic ECU, or you can use any ECU of your choice, because let's face it, they all do the same bloody thing.

I'd recommend a gt3076 size turbo with stock mani and gate off rear housing  and some 260 Tomei drop in cams which you can setup to sound lumpy by tuning it that way .. that clip sounds like straight pipes at the rear?

Edited by AngryRB

I personally wouldn't do it off the housing either for obvious reasons.

The exhaust pressure would be through the roof by the time it is bleed post collector at the housing side.

You would want to run the gate off the stock manifold and preserve the stock divider as much as possible to reduce interference between the exhaust pulses.

I went from gate off housing to gate onto manifold and picked up ~20kW with the same timing map. Then rammed in more timing and the motor happily kept making more power. Eventually ended up making an additional 40kW with essentially the same turbo (just ball bearing centre instead of journal, same compressor wheel, same turbine wheel).

 

  • Like 1

Keep it coming guys. I'm reading all the posts, still deciding on what to do. The 34 is currently sitting in my garage fully stripped for new paint and gtr conversion without the wide body plus a shit load off aftermarket parts, bride seats, steering wheel, gear knob, carbon gtr bonnet, brand new interior the list goes on lol Hoping to have it all done by December and then I'll work the engine so keep posting you're ideas [emoji106]

Why all those mods? For bling and sting, do the ext wastgate mod, get a very good exhaust and a stand alone ecu with short loam to handle maxing your injectors and ignition. Also put a stink plazma man intercooler. Then with all the money saved, think of what motor you want, 2jz? Rb26/30, rb25neo?
Then buy the injectors and turbo for that engine, then buy that engine. At each step you are buying things that can continue to be used later as yoy upgrade engine. I think the 25 neo is badass.

A proper manifold and external gate will do wonders. I used to be a bit sceptical until I tried it on my own car, on turbos around the gt35 size you can pick up almost 1000rpm in spool and that will change the entire feel of the car

When you let the motor breathe of cause it will become more efficient.

Remember it's just a big bad air pump, air in, air out. Now this is why the twin boys have issues, massive front wheels and pea sized turbine side and wonder why they are laggy, have heat management issues and of course lift heads lol.

If you're on a budget modify the stock manifold so you essential have a "twin scroll-ish" manifold. Works wonders, I picked up 40kW purely from that - made 372 Real Australian kW on a Mainline dyno.

20160227_163438.thumb.jpg.ab5968c4a4038820feea6fe87ddd4b20.jpg

Gate off housing for me was WAY, WAY, WAY, WAY, WAY better at boost control than a 6boost is. I could run anywhere from 4psi to 35psi with gate off housing, min boost on the 6boost is like 15psi with a 50MM gate whereas the previous gate was 45mm.

Realistically what you're doing with gate on housing is having the gate happen after the Turbo flange, where all the air is being forced anyway and is the restriction in any manifold.

Making it all fit is always the issue, but it's about as equally as fitting as modifying the stock manifold to do it. Really depends on what you feel like getting cut up. China rear housings for GT35/GT30's are readily available for $200 new from Kinugawa etc. Stock manifolds are cheap too, though. Either works for what you're looking for.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...