Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Need help deciding. Evo 6 vs fully worked R34 GTT

Hi guys! Geez its been a long time since ive logged on.

Ill cut the long story short. I have the option of choosing a midnight blue evo 6 with a power fc, heavy duty clutch and all the necessary mods to make it around 200kw at the wheels. Very clean and looks great.

The other option is a fully worked R34 GTT stroked to a 2.8. Big ass gtx turbo on it. Fully forged internals, GTR gear box. Its had about 40k of work done to it. 450hp at 13psi or 750hp at 19psi.

If you guys were in my shoes, what would be the better car? 

If only the R34 was a GTR then obviously my mind would be made up lol :(

 

Edited by Redknight

Evo. drop in cams, cam gears and e85 will be seeing close to 300kw atw from the 4g63 and will be reliable day in day out.

also red the 4g63 is one of the strongest 4 cylinder engines to ever come out of Japan, there's a heap of videos where evos run 600hp on stock bottom ends.

Just don't buy a rwd skyline, mates have had them and they have got rid of them.

2 hours ago, Zilla_Gtr said:

Evo. drop in cams, cam gears and e85 will be seeing close to 300kw atw from the 4g63 and will be reliable day in day out.

also red the 4g63 is one of the strongest 4 cylinder engines to ever come out of Japan, there's a heap of videos where evos run 600hp on stock bottom ends.

Just don't buy a rwd skyline, mates have had them and they have got rid of them.

 

Thanks man! You just sold me on the evo 6. 

are they comparable to a gtr in terms of power and potential? 

Edited by Redknight

Depends a lot on how well the 34 build was done... If done well, its the better, faster, more fun car.

I.e don't buy it unless you absolutely can vouch for it.

OEM is often the best builder ;)

  • 5 months later...

A neat clean Evo 6 should keep its value longer than a GTt .

Last of the real ones ie homologation specials before production based Group A Rally was axed for kit car WRC regs .

True , a Neo 25T will make the power easier with 6 pots but at warp 9 the Evo will be a more stable platform . 

I like my GTS25T but I feel a lot safer when it comes to fast steering cornering and stopping in my 6GSR . The reaction to driver inputs is a fair bit sharper in the Evo and they feel VASTLY more sure footed and planted than a RWD R series Skyline .The Skyline is arguably the better daily and long distance tourer but its more relaxing because its not quite as sharp and you have to pay a bit more attention to where the Lancer is going and how the chassis talks to you .

Things like fast racks close ratio gearboxes and magic feeling brakes are standard equipment even on the GSR version .  

Take a look at the Top Gear and 5th Gear youtubes on Evo 6s , interesting .

Probably the real test would be a factory standard Evo 6 vs a factory standard GTt . I reckon the Mitsy would eat the GTt .

Think hard about an Evo 6 vs the later Cedia based 7/8/9 because parts are more readily available for them . Also 6s didn't get the active center differential and the later transfer case won't fit under a 6 . 

A .

 

 

Edited by discopotato03

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I certainly fall into the annoyed camp, but glad to hear that if it's happening at low boost then I'm not likely going to blow a turbo and end up with metal shards in my oil. Just feels like it prevents me from really driving it without hesitation and "peak" performance. Wonder if it's the VCAM, it did an impressive job of shifting the torque curve and faster spool, but maybe now it's "too fast" and there's too much air for how open the throttle is.  Based on some other threads, will also do some reading on synchronizing the actuators. They are the default actuators that come on the Garrett's and I would think they would be set the same coming from the factory, but if the turbos don't actually work exactly the same way at the same time as previously mentioned, it would be worth making sure the actuators are actuating together properly
    • I went down this rabbit hole before, ended up sourcing a motor from the UK (I'm in Japan) which also didn't function correctly. With the original motor, I disassembled it and reassembled it and it works somewhat, sometimes. What I could deduce from all my screwing around is that there is calibration of the gears on the inside of the motor and two ramps on the main gear which activate switches that operate the motor and move the sunroof either to retract into the roof or tilt. Where I got stuck was that, it seemed in my case that one or both of the switches that are activated by the ramp on the gear did not always activate and thus the motor did not move, causing it to sometimes not retract or tilt (apologies, I've forgotten which way it didn't work.).  Of course this part is discontinued at Nissan now, it's the same part in the S15 but no other models. I also contacted the manufacturer of the component for schematics - forgot the name, they're based in Gifu - but they declined to share the information due to being bound by an NDA, sadly. Looking through my pictures now, it seems I last had a crack at this in 2022. See, I so kindly wrote "open" and "close" next to the switches. If you figure it out, please do tell me. Those little switches, with the red buttons may need to be replaced.
    • It says 300ZX, does that make it an Aus delivered car? Funny how back in the day I just couldn't care less about Z32's and these days I am just in love with them. Back when Nissan was into pushing the envelope. 🤣
    • Hi guys, just after some guidance with an R34 sunroof that has stopped working correctly. It still opens and closes perfectly fine, but it no longer tilts/vents up or down. As a result, the rear of the glass now sags a bit as it drops down slightly in order to retract into the roof, but now it can't pop upwards into a flush position. I’ve probed the pins on the back of the switch connector with a multimeter and it seems like both switches (for open/close and tilt/vent) still work correctly. Any ideas on what it could be, or where I should even start in terms of diagnosing? I'm sure someone's had this issue before but I haven't been able to find anything online relating to this specific issue, most of the issues are with the seals leaking or the motor failing entirely. Thanks in advance!
×
×
  • Create New...