Jump to content
SAU Community

Need help deciding. Evo 6 vs fully worked R34 GTT

Redknight

By Redknight,
in Evo discussion

 Share

Recommended Posts

Redknight Explorer

Redknight

Posted
Posted (edited)

Need help deciding. Evo 6 vs fully worked R34 GTT

Hi guys! Geez its been a long time since ive logged on.

Ill cut the long story short. I have the option of choosing a midnight blue evo 6 with a power fc, heavy duty clutch and all the necessary mods to make it around 200kw at the wheels. Very clean and looks great.

The other option is a fully worked R34 GTT stroked to a 2.8. Big ass gtx turbo on it. Fully forged internals, GTR gear box. Its had about 40k of work done to it. 450hp at 13psi or 750hp at 19psi.

If you guys were in my shoes, what would be the better car? 

If only the R34 was a GTR then obviously my mind would be made up lol :(

 

Edited by Redknight
Link to comment
Share on other sites
Zilla_Gtr Apprentice

Zilla_Gtr

Posted
Posted

Evo. drop in cams, cam gears and e85 will be seeing close to 300kw atw from the 4g63 and will be reliable day in day out.

also red the 4g63 is one of the strongest 4 cylinder engines to ever come out of Japan, there's a heap of videos where evos run 600hp on stock bottom ends.

Just don't buy a rwd skyline, mates have had them and they have got rid of them.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Redknight Explorer

Redknight

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
2 hours ago, Zilla_Gtr said:

Evo. drop in cams, cam gears and e85 will be seeing close to 300kw atw from the 4g63 and will be reliable day in day out.

also red the 4g63 is one of the strongest 4 cylinder engines to ever come out of Japan, there's a heap of videos where evos run 600hp on stock bottom ends.

Just don't buy a rwd skyline, mates have had them and they have got rid of them.

 

Thanks man! You just sold me on the evo 6. 

are they comparable to a gtr in terms of power and potential? 

Edited by Redknight
Link to comment
Share on other sites
  • 5 months later...
discopotato03 Grand Master

discopotato03

Posted
Posted (edited)

A neat clean Evo 6 should keep its value longer than a GTt .

Last of the real ones ie homologation specials before production based Group A Rally was axed for kit car WRC regs .

True , a Neo 25T will make the power easier with 6 pots but at warp 9 the Evo will be a more stable platform . 

I like my GTS25T but I feel a lot safer when it comes to fast steering cornering and stopping in my 6GSR . The reaction to driver inputs is a fair bit sharper in the Evo and they feel VASTLY more sure footed and planted than a RWD R series Skyline .The Skyline is arguably the better daily and long distance tourer but its more relaxing because its not quite as sharp and you have to pay a bit more attention to where the Lancer is going and how the chassis talks to you .

Things like fast racks close ratio gearboxes and magic feeling brakes are standard equipment even on the GSR version .  

Take a look at the Top Gear and 5th Gear youtubes on Evo 6s , interesting .

Probably the real test would be a factory standard Evo 6 vs a factory standard GTt . I reckon the Mitsy would eat the GTt .

Think hard about an Evo 6 vs the later Cedia based 7/8/9 because parts are more readily available for them . Also 6s didn't get the active center differential and the later transfer case won't fit under a 6 . 

A .

 

 

Edited by discopotato03
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • HYBRID VL
      V37 Alarm settings and what the buttons do.

      By HYBRID VL · Posted

      I have been looking at some setting on the alarms for the Q60 and what buttons do and so and also been looking for details on the alarm in my V37 which is a standard issue with the car. settings like window roll up and a few others seem to not work at all. i cant seem to find exact info on V37 alarms so Q60 is all i can really go off i have not tried 400Z alarm settings or info yet so that will be next. any one got like a sheet of info on the alarm system in the V37 as all my documents are in japanese but i thought the system would basically be like standard through similar models? 
    • r32-25t
      R32 Gtr Long Term Love, Now Project

      By r32-25t · Posted

      I had a fuel smell coming from the drivers rear and pulled the tank out to inspect where it was coming from, turns out the breather hose from the tank to the filler neck was perished. I’m going to Japan next week and I’ll grab it while I’m there  pulled the oil tank apart and started cleaning this crap out of it, some brake cleaner and rags got it looking new again 
    • GTSBoy
      Creative in cabin amp locations

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Hmm. Was quite a few years ago now. I think I bought from a crowd in the US called CDT Audio. The speaker is the HD-6. The HD-6CF would have been the better option (based on T-S parameters), but they were discontinued in 4 ohm at that point in time. The HD-6 is a better driver in almost every other way (than the CF) - just not as good in IB. They still do the HD-6. They might even have a more suitable (for IB) option here.https://www.cdtaudio.com/cdtnew22/products/components/woofers/midwoofers/midwoofers.htm But, here's the rub. I was working in the US a lot back then, so I got them delivered to my US office and then just brought them back to OZ myself. I don't know if they will ship to OZ, and it probably wouldn't be great cost-wise anyway. As to results. They're driven direct off the rear channels of my headunit, because the headunit can be setup to run the rears as subs. So, not a lot of power being fed there. Nevertheless, there's no shortage of volume - the sub levels don't need or want to be boosted at all. The bass is definitely not what you would call "tight". It is definitely a bit delayed compared to a proper sub. But, with the great front soundstage and really good 6.5" woofers in the front doors, I'm getting most of the bass detail from the front and the rear is really only to extend the bottom end a bit. Works for what I'm doing. I mean - until recently you couldn't really hold a conversation in my car due to the fuel pump, and for many years I had tyres so noisy (Kumho KU36 at <50 tread depth) that I had to drive with earplugs anyway!
    • Ghosty033
      Creative in cabin amp locations

      By Ghosty033 · Posted

      curious to know what drivers you chose and the results? quik mafs, says two 6.5s should roughly equate somewhere between a single 8" or 10" driver. i agree that IB is definitely the way to go in most cars imo.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Rear suspension upgrades

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      S13 and R32 rear suspension geometry is horrible once you lower it (which everyone does). The camber & toe out ramp is very aggressive, hence it's common for the S13 boys/girls to use a S14 or S15 subframe as the geometry is light years ahead. I'm sure the same can be done on R32s, but I don't know anyone that has done that.
×
×
  • Create New...