Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

17 minutes ago, r32-25t said:

Including your wallet 

It’s a few hungered more than a gen 2 GTX. So after buying gates, manifolds, lines blah blah it’s almost insignificant.

1250cc would be plenty,, also they're easier to fit as they're 3/4 length not 1/2 length like the 1300/1550/1700 injectors out there.

 

Okay sweet thank you, what size gate should I go 45mm with a 14psi spring? Was thinking of going with the hybrid top mount manifold and the proflow ffp?

Going of gcg website a gtx3582 gen2 is $3140 and the efr8374 is $3810.

Now I’m sure both could be found cheaper but it’s a price anyone can search and see I’m not just pulling numbers out of thin air

  • Like 1

FFP also isn't exactly needed, i.e save your money.

GTX3582 and 8374 are gonna be too laggy for a motor that only revs to 7k. Unless you rev it to 8k, in which case see earlier comments re: "Stock motor compatibility". Think full boost at 4500RPM and see earlier comments re: "RWD"

Excellent for GTR, especially ones already had a rebuild. If you're smart you can mount something that'll do 350+ every day to the stock manifold location and not need a FFP, not need external gates and their plumbing/exhaust and not need a rebuilt motor for much longer and also have such useful features as "having grip" and "boost well before 4k"

FWIW I was told in a single gate setup you'd need a 50mm gate. I have one and it works quite well actually, can run as low as 10-11psi. Keep in mind you also have a R34 so clearance in that region for big exhausts and EWG's and screamer pipes may not be compatible with "Air conditioning" unless you have a fabricator with a lot of patience.

All of that for 20kw you wont notice and lack of a million things you will

if you ever want to make 500kW I have a brand new motor that's never started before sitting at home...

Kind of over it.. so if you come give me enough cash you can take the lot and if you give me enough I'll throw in a free car with enough track suspension mods you'll cum your pants.. all it needs is a roll cage and will be competitive.. has Brembo brakes too.

if you ever want to make 500kW I have a brand new motor that's never started before sitting at home...
Kind of over it.. so if you come give me enough cash you can take the lot and if you give me enough I'll throw in a free car with enough track suspension mods you'll cum your pants.. all it needs is a roll cage and will be competitive.. has Brembo brakes too.



Inboxed
19 minutes ago, sergi_dee said:

Maybe I'll do just cut and shut and relocated the throttle so I have shorter pipping and don't have pipes over the motor.
 

No no no no.  The Nissan plenum is designed to be fed from the centre, not the end.  No-one who bastardises the factory plenum ever seems to think of this.

There's nothing wrong with pipes over the motor.  There's nothing wrong with the "long" length of pipework.  Any such perception is faulty.

  • Like 1
9 minutes ago, sergi_dee said:

Ahaha okay just because so many people do it thought it was a good and cheap move and to shorten them pipes. What about the freddy plenums? Just because when I go top mount it will interfere with the piping

Nah, look at @klutched's build has stock plenum and high mount.

 

  • Like 1

Imo if you must go high mount and ffp run a GTX3576R with T4 twinscroll mani with divider all the way to a 45 or 50mm gate. For FFP get a Plazmaman plenum from @Dose Pipe Sutututu

You can use stock mani and do a custom crossover pipe like ive done. They stock intakes will flow more than you are asking. Im at 374rwkw 20psi with a GT3076r Hypergate45 1000cc injectors, CRG highmount, 256 cams, gasket and studs. Would wind it up more but compressor is flowing its dick off. Ive seen a few guys with gtx3076r's get to 400rwkw but 27-30psi.

For cams throw in a set of 260deg cams and valvesprings to keep it responsive and add some mid/top end power. 

  • Like 1
Would give you a good start! Turbo is like new as has only done a handful of laps since a new fresh rebuild. Responsive and could make 400kw if you really want to ring its neck! Best i saw was 392kw out of one but was responsive and fast!
Inbox me as im interested in your turbo

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nice, thanks for sharing your progress....that's a pretty long list you are putting into it!
    • Decided to upgrade my pressurised plastic coolant expansion tank for a fancy pants alloy version The OEM versions can get brittle, even the new plastic one I got when I first got the car is a starting to show signs of "stress" I wasn't cheap, but it is basically unbreakable
    • Morning all, I have an RB25DET Neo that's in need of a rebuild. Will need new pistons etc due to detonation damage. Would anyone be able to recommend a shop in Southeast Queensland who I could bring my long motor to for a rebuild? Just want someone who knows RBs and whos built a bunch of them before. TLDR - recommended engine shops for RB rebuild.
    • Gday Thought it was about time I started a build thread! As expected this project has snowballed into a huge financial liability, but unless you’re strong willed and responsible, it’s not a surprise. Background -  My first turbo car was an R32 GTS-4, got my full license and then totalled my Au Falcon a week later, so while trying to sell my RMZ450 dirtbike to buy another car a bloke offered to swap the R32 which at the time I felt like I was ripped off but looking back and seeing prices of those now ($40kish) it was a good deal, I didn’t know enough about these cars to appreciate what I had so sold it before the RB20 blew up. Between here and there, out of 12 cars I’ve owned the note worthy ones are a V8 Lexus SC400 (soarer), a couple of XR6 Turbos and my beloved S15 which I had for about 3 years, picked it up for $12500, repairable write off but she was fine, gun metal grey/pewter and bone stock/unmolested until I got my hands on it. Ended up spending about the value of the car and 280kw, 2 demerit points by the time I got defected and sold it for $14500 (also $40kish in today’s market, rip) Fast forward to the present day, I’m in a much better position financially and daily an MQ Triton (great cars, pipe down Ranger Bois), I cruised marketplace and car sales for a few months looking for another R32, the best deal I could find was an absolute rust bucket half finished project for $12000, until this R33 popped up in Port Macquarie for $18k - unregistered and barely running but decent shape, kept an eye on it for a few weeks and the price steadily dropped, $16k then $15k then $14k, that was the point where I was like shit someone’s gonna snatch this up! It was owned by a young bloke who had big plans but him and his missus just had a baby so smartest move financially for them but big gain for me. So 2 days later I’m towing a car trailer to pick this thing up. Roughly 2 weeks and $3500 later I’m cruising around Newcastle in my beat up R33 all smiles and dose noises! It only needed some basic shit to get it going, coil packs and air flow meter, electrical stuff and all fluids changed, 158k kms and running pretty good, nice smooth engine after oil and coolant flush - when I say coolant I mean it had been filled up with tap water, every gallery and heater element was filled with rust, 8-9 flushes later and still had brown liquid coming out but she’ll be right. The car was painted R34 Bayside Blue at some point but whether it was a cheap job or just not looked after is anyone’s guess, clear coat flaking like sausage roll.  Was rethinking my choices and contemplating life, had it up for sale for $22k - still cheaper than any registered R33 but got little interest, next minute I had an opportunity at work - 6 months overseas for good money, so that was a no brainer, fast forward again and here we are with a 50% finished project. Current Mods - 200ish KW according to butt dyno Was tuned with Apexi PowerFC EBC (old school Greddy Profec)  Stock turbo (more shaft play than a Tinder date gone right) 3inch turbo back Varex muffler  Aftermarket injectors of mystery size, Power FC showed 36% duty cycle at full boost so not behd good size Someone had good intentions but stuck with the stock R33 MAF so we had misfires at 6000rpm due to the MAF hitting 5.2V So far I’ve redone the entire interior with carpet form Car Mats Direct, new Seats and steering wheel from Autotechnica, also sound system by Autobarn (mainly Kicker) Also MCA pro comfort coil overs - Hands down best purchase yet, worlds of improvement over the tired 30yrold shocks Goals - 450kw/600hp on flex tune New paint job - Midnight Purple 2 Engine is at the shop getting rebuilt with forged rods a pistons, new valves and springs, ATI Harmonic balancer, Aeroflow 7.5L sump, rear head drain and oil restrictors as per oil control thread* and cam covers modded for larger breathers, other stuff I can’t recall of the top of my head Parts purchased and to be installed once the engine is done -  Engine loom from Wiring Specialties including these options: Haltech Nexus S3 R35 Coil pack conversion  PRP Dual Trigger kit Fan controller  Other Parts -  262 Kelford Cams Turbo - Hypergear ATR43SS3-ProS with T51R mod (whistly boi) 6 boost manifold (high mount) 50mm Turbosmart Pro gate (plumbed back for legal reasons) HKS Super Turbo Exhaust with High Flow Cat Custom 3.5inch dump and front pipe 1500cc Bosch injectors  Fuel Pump walbro 525 Haltech MAP and IAT sensors Haltech Flex Sensor Fenix Radiator with dual thermo fans LS1 Alternator Kit Oil Filter Relocation from EFI solutions and Cooling pro oil cooler Many other things sitting in my garage waiting for that engine to come back. Progress pics to follow -  
    • Losses have to be less with DC coupling. Provided the battery inverter has decent MPP tracking ability - which really shouldn't be a problem. It's not 2005 any more.
×
×
  • Create New...