Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Received my kit yesterday, and fitted it up this morning, took a couple of hours to do from start to finish including removing old standard unit. 

Everything bolted up perfectly and lines up spot on, great quality and an excellent upgrade for the electrical system ready for any added extras down the road. 

Personally I found the best course of action for fitment is to drop the old unit off through the gap between the radiator shroud and the power steering lines etc, and have the extension bracket mounted to unit not fully tightened, that way you can wriggle stuff around when lifting the new one up through the gap, hardest bit, and part that illicits the most cursing of engineering design etc. Is the placement of the lower pivot bolt, you can either see it, or you can get a hand in there to fit it, Never both! Once bottom bolt is in the rest is easy as. 

Electrical system is now a lot more stable and also a bit quieter on the belt noise level with the new pulley too, so I will be recommending this kit to all of the local jdm nut bags and passing them the info/links etc. 

  • Like 2

Yep, 100% agree, ive only recently got my car back from the workshop so haven’t done a heap of driving but I’ve already noticed the electrical system is better, before with lights on and stereo on I would see a drop in voltage and that was only running one fuel pump. I’m now running three pumps, no issues, no volt drop.
Very happy customer here.
But I didn’t fit it, I had the workshop fit it.

  • Like 1
11 hours ago, Old man 32 GTR said:

Yep, 100% agree, ive only recently got my car back from the workshop so haven’t done a heap of driving but I’ve already noticed the electrical system is better, before with lights on and stereo on I would see a drop in voltage and that was only running one fuel pump. I’m now running three pumps, no issues, no volt drop.
Very happy customer here.
But I didn’t fit it, I had the workshop fit it.

3 fuel pumps? jeebus I'd hate to have your bloody fuel bill hahahaha, 2 questions... why 3 pumps? and secondly are any of them a "drop-in" upgrade that aren't as loud as a rotary13B sitting in your boot?

I might look at doing a pump and reg upgrade in the future but don't want a massively loud thing resonating in the wagon, so I'm looking for recommendations of an in-tank minimal fuss type of thing, any suggestions?

Fuel system was done by DVS Tuning, radium surge tank with twin walbro 460’s staged and another walbro in the main tank feeding the surge tank.
It’s unbelievably quiet, I’m very happy with it. Supports my 500kw and is good for substantially more should I wish to pursue more power in the future.
This is why I upgraded the alternator

  • Like 1
22 hours ago, cul8er said:

Anyone have to do a power cable to support the extra 70a due to bigger alternator ?

mine already had much thicker cable than standard due to the car having a uber-ridiculous stereo system in it when i got it, but can buy 200amp rated cable  10mm thick in super cheap which is about $8-10 a metre that'll be more than up to the task, then go to an electrical wholesaler or battery shop for the crimp on ends

  • 2 weeks later...

Just fitted a rat32r kit with an alternator he supplied. Very nice kit and straight forward instalation. Idle voltage has gone from 14.2v to 14.45v. The Attessa light is staying off now, so the only remaining issue is the ABS.

  • Like 2
  • 1 month later...
Just fitted a rat32r kit with an alternator he supplied. Very nice kit and straight forward instalation. Idle voltage has gone from 14.2v to 14.45v. The Attessa light is staying off now, so the only remaining issue is the ABS.
Do you know how i can get hold of rat32r i have messaged him on here with no response
  • 2 weeks later...

Would it be possible to see a pic of an RB spec Mitsubishi Alternator next to the LS Mitsy one please .

I'm very interested in this kit but just curious to see if the LS one is larger in diameter compared to the Nissan supplied one .

Mine would be for an R33 spec RB25DET .

Thanks in advance , cheers Adrian .

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Price seems pretty good to me. Also seems a hell of a lot cheaper then buying another vehicle that only ever gets used for towing.  I'm a long way from you mate, I'm a couple of hours out of Brizzy. 
    • New [400]Z, they're available in manual and you don't have to worry about parts scarcity. 
    • Just planning to have the wiring neat and hide as much as possible.
    • The sodium acetate, mixed with citric acid, doesn't actually buffer each other. Interestingly though, if you used Sodium Acetate, and acetic acid, THAT becomes a buffer solution. Additionally, a weak acid that can attack a metal, is still a weak acid that can attack a metal. If you don't neutralise it, and wash it off, it's going to be able to keep attacking. It works the same way when battery acid dries, get that stuff somewhere, and then it gets wet, and off it goes again breaking things down. There's a reason why people prefer a weak acid, and it's because they want TIME to be able to be on their side. IE, DIY guys are happy to leave some mild steel in vinegar for 24 hours to get mill scale off. However, if you want to do it chemically in industry, you grab the muriatic acid. If you want to do it quicker at home, go for the acetic acid if you don't want muriatic around. At the end of the day, look at the above thumbnail, as it proves what I said in the earlier post, you can clean that fuel tank up all you want with the solution, but the rust that has now been removed was once the metal of the fuel tank. So how thin in spots is your fuel tank getting? If the magazine on the left, is the actual same magazine as on the right, you'll notice it even introduces more holes... Well, rust removal in general actually does that. The fuel tank isn't very thick. So, I'll state again, look to replace the tank, replace the fuel hanger, and pump, work out how the rust and shit is making it past the fuel filter, and getting into the injectors. That is the real problem. If the fuel filter were doing its job, the injectors wouldn't be blocked.
    • Despite having minimal clothing because of the hot weather right now, I did have rubber gloves and safety glasses on just in-case for most of the time. Yes, I was scrubbing with my gloves on before, but brushing with a brush removes the remaining rust. To neutralize, I was thinking distilled water and baking soda, or do you think that would be overkill?
×
×
  • Create New...