Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, I’m fairly new to the skyline scene, but looking to buy an r34. 

My plan is to eventually upgrade to a larger turbo, maybe make 400-500 hp. 

Is it worth paying the extra $5000? for a gtt if I am going to redo the turbo system anyway.

I understand that there are other upgrades in the gtt, but I am not sure exactly what. 

I am not sure how much more expensive it is to turbo the gt model, compared to upgrading the turbo system in the gtt

Cheers,

Josh

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/473512-r34-25gt-or-25gt-t/
Share on other sites

Please do a search for RB25DE+T or DE+T e.g. https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/335781-r34-rb25de-to-turbo-conversion/

In short, turboing an NA car is not worth it. Here's what the GTT has over the GT, among other things: stronger gearbox, bigger brakes, bigger wheels for the bigger brakes, rear swaybar, sidemount intercooler, everything in the right location in the engine bay. Possibly some differences in cooling also (rad, PS, auto gearbox). Fully converting a GT to a GTT is possible but a big job - just save up and buy a proper GTT. Better yet, buy someone else's 500hp car with everything done already.

Another solid myth is that buying an auto can be magically converted manual cheaper that buying a manual in the first place. Not true. Been there done that. If you want a manual, buy a manual.

Good luck.

 

  • Like 2
1 hour ago, V28VX37 said:

Please do a search for RB25DE+T or DE+T e.g. https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/335781-r34-rb25de-to-turbo-conversion/

In short, turboing an NA car is not worth it. Here's what the GTT has over the GT, among other things: stronger gearbox, bigger brakes, bigger wheels for the bigger brakes, rear swaybar, sidemount intercooler, everything in the right location in the engine bay. Possibly some differences in cooling also (rad, PS, auto gearbox). Fully converting a GT to a GTT is possible but a big job - just save up and buy a proper GTT. Better yet, buy someone else's 500hp car with everything done already.

Another solid myth is that buying an auto can be magically converted manual cheaper that buying a manual in the first place. Not true. Been there done that. If you want a manual, buy a manual.

Good luck.

 

Agree with your points although buying someone elses 500hp car is not always the best option. I'd rather a stock/fairly stock and do all the work myself, that's half the fun of having a project car isn't it? Building it to where you want it to be as well as the fact you know the car has probably been thrashed already if it has 500hp.

Edited by Gymkhana
  • Like 1
1 hour ago, V28VX37 said:

Please do a search for RB25DE+T or DE+T e.g. https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/335781-r34-rb25de-to-turbo-conversion/

In short, turboing an NA car is not worth it. Here's what the GTT has over the GT, among other things: stronger gearbox, bigger brakes, bigger wheels for the bigger brakes, rear swaybar, sidemount intercooler, everything in the right location in the engine bay. Possibly some differences in cooling also (rad, PS, auto gearbox). Fully converting a GT to a GTT is possible but a big job - just save up and buy a proper GTT. Better yet, buy someone else's 500hp car with everything done already.

Another solid myth is that buying an auto can be magically converted manual cheaper that buying a manual in the first place. Not true. Been there done that. If you want a manual, buy a manual.

Good luck.

 

Cheers for the help man, kinda figured this would be the case; but didn't know there were that many differences.

  • Like 1
38 minutes ago, Gymkhana said:

Agree with your points although buying someone elses 500hp car is not always the best option. I'd rather a stock/fairly stock and do all the work myself, that's half the fun of having a project car isn't it? Building it to where you want it to be as well as the fact you know the car has probably been thrashed already if it has 500hp.

Yea for sure, definitely going to buy a fairly stock car, looking to keep this as a project car for the next couple of years at least

On ‎10‎/‎03‎/‎2018 at 6:38 PM, Jhare413 said:

Yea for sure, definitely going to buy a fairly stock car, looking to keep this as a project car for the next couple of years at least

Only trouble with that is you lose your social life, own 2 pair of jeans [one with holes in the knees] and around 4 or 5 cheap T shirts with grease spots and welding/grinding holes in them and you live on noodles or cuppa soups cos you have nil time and $$$ to waste on food or clothes when there are important things like manifolds and turbo's to buy.

BTW....I have a THAT wardrobe, but my diet has progressed a little bit :) to include meat etc

Oh and get used to your gf/wife/partner rolling their eyes

But its all a journey...good luck man.

 

  • 2 weeks later...

People forget that buying a finished project car isn't missing out of the fun of a project car.

The "fun" of a project car is keeping it running and trying to use it. There's more work in keeping it running than there EVER is in building it.

Buy Jussi's car and be happy
/Thread

  • Like 2

I don't think anyone's pointed out yet that the power you can get from a genuine DET will always be more and easier than from a DE+t. So if you have a particular power figure in mind you might only have one choice really.

I've done the DE+t and the sense of satisfaction is pretty awesome. I'd have had to wait a lot longer to buy a GTT and the moment might have just slipped away. Keep saving and watch the prices rise. My budget would probably have got me a GTST at the time but I wanted the R34. It might have been non-turbo for a few years but at least I was driving it. I gradually did the supporting mods - brakes, suspension etc.  before the turbo conversion. If you're ok with spanners it's not hard, not particularly time consuming and not that expensive if you're patient about looking for good deals.

 

2 hours ago, DatsunBanana said:

...
Keep saving and watch the prices rise. 
...

Perhaps in the UK but certainly not in Aus or NZ :)

The cheapest GTT right now on CarSales is AU$8k. TradeMe has one with a 26 in it for NZ$10k...

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Possibly avoid using a Cometic one unless the deck/head surface are perfectly flat. I did have a look just then and forgiving gaskets such as Tomei or Nitto don't exist for the FJ20, however the Bar-Tek or Kameari ones look good and might do the trick.
    • Because pipe threads for pipe things. M threads for bolt things. Throw some teflon sealant onto it and dust your hands off knowing you did the right thing, instead of going twice around the block to achieve a result using the wrong things. Of course, all of these solutions are ignoring the fact that the minimum thread pitch we're talking about here is 1.25mm, with the 1/4" in NPT or BPS being out around 1.4mm. You will need to know that the boss you're tapping has enough thickness for at least a few threads. That's one of the reasons that 1/8" is commonly used - because the pitch is <1mm. And why would you look to use 1/4" NPT in a BSP country anyway? Ugh.
    • Just throwing around ideas, does it need to be in the compressor cover? Why not the hot side piping?
    • 1/8NPT drill size = 8.7mm. Since the hole got messed up by me, it’s probably around 9mm.    So 1/4” NPT would be next step. A drill size of around 11mm would be preferred there which is not way of my M12 (drill 10.5mm and tap M12 threads) 
    • 3 Kids are starting to hit that ages. I wanted to get them something special to learn on, put down the screens and have some fun. 4Door 2001 R34DE Black Pearl GV1 Jap Import, AU 2nd owner. Pre Work done. Suspension - Wheels Pedders SportsRyder Coilovers   Wheels TSG Spokey Boi 18'x9.5"+15 Body JASI Aero 4 door Type R Full Kit LED Conversion - Parker, Blinkers, & Reverse Exhaust Hurricane Headers 100 CPI high flow cat 2.5" Piping Cannon muffler Internal Bride low max stradia ii - front seats  Bride RO seat base and Rails (R/H) Cube short shifter LED Conversion - Interior   
×
×
  • Create New...