Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

10 hours ago, Ben C34 said:

Problems with boost tees are caused by retards using them.

It is funny to consider buying super afc in 2018. Don't do it.

If I go boost t how do I not be a retard? I hear they can cause boost spike and creap. How do I avoid the downsides?

You will blow your budget if your stock turbo goes - I would stick to 10 psi. And you don't even need a boost T you can do it yourself (and buy a second hand PFC - save yourself a lot of wiring).

10min boost increase.doc

10min boost pics.odt

On 8/11/2018 at 9:10 AM, WantGTR said:

A lot of what you posted is junk.

Agree, too much w4nk parts. Fast and the Furious was so 1999.

Get a a HDi GT2 FMIC, Tomei Dump Pipe (they're actually pretty nice), whatever brand downpipe, 100cell Cat or none, decent 3~3.5" catback (avoid any homo JASMA shit), some form of air filter OR replace the panel filter element (I made over 320kW with the stock air box). DW300 Fuel Pump

Then get yourself a Nistune, a 3-port MAC valve OR Full standalone ECU such as a Haltech, Link, Adaptronic, etc.

190~210kW within reach "Stage 1"

 

  • Like 1

He lives in Okinawa (Japan), so would have access to tuners that like HKS computers more readily (compared to Haltech or Nistune), perhaps?

HKS Hi Silent is a good exhaust, far from "silent" (it's like minimum 90 dB) and doesn't have step downs (can see through the mufflers).

Of you are looking at stage 1 upgrade, go for the following.
1. Power FC so it can be tuned properly. Or Go for a Heltec if you want to run E85 and or 98.
2. 3 -3.5 inch exhaust with a sports cat.
3. HKS air intake.

This is a good start then afterwards upgrage all the bolt on upgrades.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My bad, I unplugged the one underlined in red instead of yellow before. With the car started, after unplugging the IACV (the one underlined in yellow), it idled at around 400/500 for 3 seconds before stalling. Attempting to start the car without the IACV will not start the car.   It does stutter and sputter for around 5 seconds before dying. However, immediately after starting it, you can already hear some slight sputters from the exhaust.   It won't start with the AFM unplugged. If it is when the car has already started, it stalls in a few seconds.   Yesterday, I did take some logs using Nistune of 3 scenarios. Car idling till it stalls Car idling and unplugging the IACV Car idling and removing the AFM I also have some previous logs of when the Car is idling till it stalls and when driving and it cuts. I am not really knowledgeable enough to understand what to look for. After every test, car idles rougher and rougher, until I have to stop. It will be fine the day after.
    • There is no difference between a 17x8 and an 18x8. The total diameter of the tyre needs to remain +/- the same (so you don't mess up the gearing, speedo reading, and clearance when turning front wheels..... so you just need to use a lower profile tyre on th 18 than you do on the 17. /rocket surgery.
    • I thought the same to start with. But then I thought it was one of those LCAs where the end of the ARB goes through a bushing in the LCA itself, instead of having an end link.
    • Yeah - I mean, go the other way. Smaller range. Not larger.
    • To re-cap, I bought: https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Lsailt-8G-Infiniti-Q50-Q60-2014_1601171829627.html?spm=a2756.trade-list-buyer.0.0.2cd476e9FTIlKE As you can see, if I bought 20 it was $653, but I bought 1 so it was $1,170. I was very tempted to buy 2 and resell 1 at 25% cheaper. @MBS206, I am not sure if they do a Kluger one, here is their list but it might be there under a global model name: http://www.lsailt.com/product/android-interface?page=1 Keep in mind these full android replacements have basically all the bits a phone does (cpu, ram, storage, wifi, bluetooth, usb interfaces) other than a screen (it uses a host), thus the $800+ cost. Android Auto screen mirroring is MUCH cheaper as it's just a cut down shell, input mirroring and output mirroring BTW I also need that "screen off" feature, it is much harder to see wildlife even if a dash is reasonably dark. Both the Fuga and V37 have display off buttons for night use, they just come back on for a second or 3 if you interact with it, eg skip a song.
×
×
  • Create New...