Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I seem to have sprung a leak.

Gas mileage has gone down and I seem to hear a leak underload.

When I got it tuned (401kw) I remember the tuner had issues with my BOV's and he resolved it but told me that they could cause issues.

So if I order a Greddy Type R BOV (one big one) how do I install it?  I should need to retune it or anything like that?

Thanks Again.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/475024-r32-gtr-bov-leak/
Share on other sites

I suggest drive it back to your tuner/mechanic/fabricator and tell them to install it.

If you're asking the question how to install it, then it seems it might be best left to someone that knows how to.

I'm assuming that is just a generic BOV and not model specific, if so that would require some modding and fabrication.

Yeh good advice.  Spoke to my tuner he said the stock ones can some times lift causing a leak.  Also said the type r ones the o ring and blow out and also not seal.  

Tial seems to be the way to go but would need some fab work done and to remove the recirc system since I am on MAP and not AFM's.

Sweet think I have my solution sorted.

GFB do BOVs called mach2 that fit the stock location. model number is T9105 for the pair. they do make outlet adaptors that are the right size for the GTR recirc pipe, so they're a direct replacement but you'd have to call and order them direct from GFB, not from a reseller. about $350 from memory.

I've got two installed in place of the stock ones that failed a boost leak test and they are working great. they were a direct fit, plug and play,.

 

Image?urlId=%2FSmgqYPc3qJirYaq8QDnPPu9iK

Edited by burn4005

Has anyone just removed / bypassed the BOV's when they run into issues?

I'm convinced the whole myth surrounding BOV's prolonging turbo life has been well and truly debunked...

So is the only benefits to keeping them not getting the fully sik hectic flutter or is there something I'm missing?!?

 

 

21 minutes ago, burn4005 said:

GFB do BOVs called mach2 that fit the stock location. model number is T9105 for the pair. they do make outlet adaptors that are the right size for the GTR recirc pipe, so they're a direct replacement but you'd have to call and order them direct from GFB, not from a reseller. about $350 from memory. 

I've got two installed in place of the stock ones that failed a boost leak test and they are working great. they were a direct fit, plug and play,.

 

Image?urlId=%2FSmgqYPc3qJirYaq8QDnPPu9iK

Real good to know ill look into it.  

 

Thanks for that - that would work perfect and easy to fit.

58 minutes ago, mr_rbman said:

I'm convinced the whole myth surrounding BOV's prolonging turbo life has been well and truly debunked...

So is the only benefits to keeping them not getting the fully sik hectic flutter or is there something I'm missing?!?

 

BOVs (in OEM applications) have never been about preventing turbo damage.  On Nissans, the better term for a BOV is "compressor bypass".  What they actually do is;

  1. Allow air to flow around the compressor (instead of through it, with the restriction on flow that that presents before the compressor is spinning fast enough to not be an obstruction) which gets air into the engine easier/faster allowing it to generate exhaust gas flow faster and get the turbine spinning the compressor earlier - AND simultaneously, because the air is not flowing through the compressor the mechanical load on the compressor is reduced and that allows it to spin up with less drive power from the turbine.  Result - reduced boost threshold.
  2. Vent the air on gear changes or throttle modulations back to the inlet of the compressor to do the obvious thing, which is prevent the back pressure from slowing the compressor, but the return of the air passing through the compressor also helps to keep it spinning as well - so a double advantage there.

These effects are small, but they must have been noticeable enough for the OEMs to bother putting recirc valves onto these engines, because otherwise the complexity looks unwieldy and unnecessary.

  • Like 2
  • Thanks 1

well said Sir @GTSBoy

Also modern cars open the bypass to allow turbos to get to speed much quicker before shutting them down, hence they're driven by solenoid rather than vac/pressure.

Dose/Flutters/Pigeons (not the real one) don't destroy turbos, but don't ever tell an American that. They will post up endless photos of blown compressor wheels and turbo destruction.

Dose is sick, delete your BOVs.

 

One thing I forgot to say, BOVs do have their purpose - on cars running big boost, there are chances on hard throttle closing events - the pressure pre-throttle body side spikes and at times can exacerbate hoses blowing off and throttle plates bending!

  • Like 2

Big single turbos sound f**king stupid without a bov. I got sick of it after about 60 seconds when i tried it on mine (hooked BOV lines to pre-throttle source to keep them shut)

https://youtu.be/d6I7_Or4w7c?t=1m18s

Edited by burn4005
2 hours ago, burn4005 said:

Big single turbos sound f**king stupid without a bov. I got sick of it after about 60 seconds when i tried it on mine (hooked BOV lines to pre-throttle source to keep them shut)

https://youtu.be/d6I7_Or4w7c?t=1m18s

Lol dat dose.

Get yourself a gtx. Hardly any dose.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have you done the Ignition Sync Wizard in the AEM software?
    • Find out what RPM it was idling at with the IACV unplugged. It's very weird that the rpm didn't change at all, and then it stalled. When it stalls is it nearly like a switch off, like you've turned the engine off? Or is it more stutters and sputters and coughs to death over a few seconds? Or does the RPM just slowly keep going down and down? Have you done a test of trying to start it with the AFM unplugged? Does it still die?     If you Follow Josh's advice on using Nistune to check the voltages (which is a perfect method!) if you see anything out of wack voltage wise, THEN get the multimeter out and read the voltage directly at the sensor. If the two vary, then you're now looking for a wiring issue vs a sensor issue. So be aware, what the ECU sees, may not be what the sensor is actually saying too...
    • You very likely need to get it on a dyno and tune it. My assumption is, you've got an RB25DET tune in it, which has a different manifold, different injectors, and different cams as a minimum. What O2 sensor are you running?   When you say it runs extremely rich from idle all the way to redline, is this just free revving it you see that?
    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
×
×
  • Create New...