Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

On 10/31/2018 at 12:45 PM, AntsR33GTR said:

You sure about that? Most I have seen end 15mm or so before the edge of the bonnet...

image.png.7e49fa86fa0076ad85d835cb436b0eaa.png

image.png.cded04ce79cba36b102e276e99a1383c.png

image.png.120f5d50877e468ab1641e4a9a1ba8e1.png

 

I can confirm that the bonnet lip doesn’t go completely from one side to the other but most cheaper copies may be longer. 

I personally prefer the shorter one but it’s doesn’t matter.

Edited by Robocop2310

Bit more progress...

Got the Grex remote oil filter unit mounted. I didnt want it up high in the engine bay so found a spot that seems to work Ok. (Dont worry about the dented filter it was just for mock up purposes) 

1188971072_2018-10-2214_07_24.thumb.jpg.be73b6d6924041ae6ebb655868c3b868.jpg

Lines back to the block. I wrapped the lines in plastic conduit to give some extra protection against rubbing etc.1046873171_2018-10-2214_07_34.thumb.jpg.12ff13666d644a8994eb677872e76a41.jpg

Oil cooler installed. I will probably make some ducting for this.

1884798186_2018-11-0314_19_59.thumb.jpg.4054e820eb63d69985be211b0b2a73c1.jpg

Lines back to the oil filter block finished off.

1299110164_2018-11-0314_20_03.thumb.jpg.4b6b1a6be8f826e2677078fbb2e9b8c5.jpg

Nuke B/V installed. It is a direct fit onto the OEM gtr hard piping piping making things nice and easy.

258250779_2018-11-0316_09_47.thumb.jpg.bfccc70a896187436007a7c332f70dd0.jpg

Oil catch can breather finished off. I want to try and keep as much oil smell out of the cabin as possible so hopefully this will help.

1364093473_2018-11-0316_09_42.thumb.jpg.82ee00a5992a702e561fe0216191cbc9.jpg

 

Edited by AntsR33GTR
  • Like 1
On 11/12/2018 at 6:51 AM, AntsR33GTR said:

Got some more work done. Turbo and wastegate installed for hopefully the last time (wont be). Heat wrapped dump pipe.

101468920_2018-11-1118_26_18.thumb.jpg.632ae2e3ac729a3af942d0371dce3b9c.jpg

1537146383_2018-11-1118_26_07.thumb.jpg.c4a487cc9a932128dd8d4049cea25dfe.jpg

New plugs and NZEFI R35 coil kit installed.

1518207203_2018-11-1118_24_15.thumb.jpg.85e0394b4c70c1da9a7165a1557d0adb.jpg

Fast response IAT sensor fitted. I may move this to the intercooler pipe in the future.

1823620645_2018-11-1119_04_53.thumb.jpg.72743bb606cd9c4f4970e49a5517efd3.jpg

Amazingly clean engine bay that looks great!

  • 2 weeks later...

Good push over the weekend, got most of the final bits sorted. Had to relocate Oil filter block as the new radiator is too thick and was hitting it in the origination location I chose. Managed to squeeze it in the space near the transfer case which in hind site is a better spot anyway.

1068016863_2018-11-2415_38.45-1.thumb.jpg.346d72c81f7992246eb971b3a6a1aadc.jpg

Purchased a new Koyorad radiator.

899152852_2018-11-1520_14_18.thumb.jpg.bc327ff4243fa75b8f0317deaa1336c6.jpg

Unfortunately the one that was supplied did not include the sensor bung for the thermo fan which is located down near the lower hose exit. There was none of the other versions available instock so tapped the thermo sensor into a radiator sensor adapter and placed it in the lower hose.

369213599_2018-11-2415_38_51.thumb.jpg.c21111df971fa80dfaaf4a25983cb0d0.jpg

Painted radiator and installed

1482687914_2018-11-2605_59_24.thumb.jpg.8df849a7ae4d510db793c086d70dee44.jpg

Relocated Bosch air temp sensor into the cooler pipe

1191080487_2018-11-2606_00.21-1.thumb.jpg.c4ef53f97d063bc246e8dcecf800fa49.jpg

Completed all the wiring. This included wiring up the crank trigger sensors, oil and fuel pressure sensors and the air intake sensor.
Added head shield cover to exhaust rear housing and installed boost control solenoid which will be run by the G4+.
Engine bay pretty much sorted now.

1426604717_2018-11-2415_43_10.thumb.jpg.0f9df338a1d784cca3788e98f9d84600.jpg

Plugged in the G4+ and configured crank triggers and other required settings. Engine fired up nicely once timing was all adjusted. Warmed it up and checked for leaks, small coolant and fuel leak needed to be sorted but other wise all good. Still have to tidy a few small things and install new fuel pump setup and then off to the dyno.

Edited by AntsR33GTR
  • Like 2
  • 2 weeks later...

So go the last few small things buttoned up and got the car out o the shed for a wash after 4 months.

381300721_2018-12-0919_52_27.thumb.jpg.3a1ca3210558e039f6dd65c900990121.jpg

1549853457_2018-12-0919_51_29.thumb.jpg.8e614855dd1e6193a457a1663309375a.jpg

Then off to the dyno.

428259871_2018-12-1010_08_24.thumb.jpg.ea24b7c467e41d7073fb950bb31a9dab.jpg

Some interesting results. The car made 305kw ATW on wastegate pressure (14 psi) and 385kw ATW on 20psi. While the power is solid, the response is not as great as I was hoping. It has always been hard to get any solid data on anywone using these SX-E turbos on RBs so was a bit of a punt to try one. I found a fairly significant boost leak at the inlet manifold where it looks like i have damaged a gasket which wont be helping but overall it looks like this turbo could be sized a little too big for a stock Rb26 on 98 (E85 not an option for me as too hard to get sadly). I will get the boost leak sorted and we haven't played with cam gears to see if that will wake it up a bit. I have seen some smaller housing options available in the USA which may help also but it is looking likely i will change to an EFR to gain back some response.

Dyno graph for those interested. 

1137921482_2018-12-1013_17_56.thumb.jpg.a101535cbe984e3f49d7075ecd67d37a.jpg

  • Like 1
  • 1 month later...

Following up on where I am at.

The boost leak turned out to be this...

114881992_2018-12-1123_45_42.thumb.jpg.9ff2367dfc838c3face0f858eadf1d12.jpg

Yep I am special... managed to crack the runner when reinstalling the intake manifold. I am guessing it bound on one of the throttle body dowels and it snapped when i tightened it all down. It was on the underside of the manifold so could no be seen. So sourced a replacement stock mani along with some Tomei steel gaskets and put it all together again again. This time I pressure tested the complete system and had no leaks so problem solved.

Fixing that issue defiantly improved the response of the BW SX-E. It is certainly not the most responsive turbo around but it is actually not too bad in the real world. Below is a graph of boost response on low boost and high boost taken from logs out of the G4+. These were done on open road full throttle pulls in 3rd gear (stopped at 7K but gives idea of real world response).

713098094_SX-EBoostRepsonse.thumb.JPG.d5eba7a76fddc53ccd3e3314a89de0ce.JPG

As stated it is nothing amazing response wise but not the complete dog that the dyno graph combined with boost leak issue made this combo out to be. Also remember these turbos are very cheap in comparison to the big dollar BW/Garrett stuff (3rd of the price give or take). Once it spools up its a fun setup to drive and pulls hard but obviously it is a bit lacking when it comes to transient response. I definitely think you can live with this setup though if the budget cant stretch to the top end stuff.

In saying that I decided I am this far down the road I might as well finish things off so picked up this guy...

372439637_2019-02-0719_14_24.thumb.jpg.2041a79e88fc9517a4b463f74aabbd3d.jpg

EFR8374D. In terms of physical size it is actually slightly smaller than the SX-E 8376 (SX-E Compressor cover is BIG) but they are very close. Plan is to get it installed over the coming weeks (Need to make up water lines and modify dump etc) and get the car back on the dyno to check things over.

1304336137_2019-02-0721_24_53.thumb.jpg.2433b4acc9b9eb41a08458692c527fb5.jpg

Edited by AntsR33GTR
  • Like 6
41 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

wow, solid stuff man - love seeing data, like they say without data it's just an opinion.

Cheers man. Yea I think the SX-E would go great on an RB30 build if you wanted something low cost that can make decent power.

Will be interesting to do dome back to back data comparisons between the SX-E and the EFR...

  • Like 1
  • 1 month later...

Update on where I am at with the car.

I managed to get hold of a tidy second hand Greddy/Trust 100mm intercooler which was awesome as I had been wanting to upgrade the factory one. Wont be as good as the latest Plazmaman/Hypertune stuff but price was right and should be an improvement over stock.

1820897523_2019-03-0915_03_11.thumb.jpg.03d652cb83e3e98ed916cd96cfab05d0.jpg

Mounted up

1990082789_2019-03-0917_01_57.thumb.jpg.8c1021cacfad12a344b65369982357a4.jpg

Bit of trimming to the bumper to let it fit but came out ok.

913678866_2019-03-0919_11_06.thumb.jpg.3ba4ad21a20e34e9e98045d5a7b54d55.jpg

Next it was time to swap out the BW SX-E for the EFR. Out came the SX-E.

548626310_2019-03-1717_17_12.thumb.jpg.57003681f3bda9d8e7a12910b0acfe3e.jpg

Comparison of the two side by side.

364662652_2019-03-1717_16_54.thumb.jpg.12d229203d96df31131f186aa22d66fe.jpg

There is significant differences in the rear housing designs between the two turbos so the dump pipe needed quite a bit of modification to fit, they also use different style v bands. I made up new water lines and oil drain to suit the EFR. Also modified the heat shield i made to protect the body better and give me easier access to the wastegate lines. I also got distracted and decided to change the color of the cam covers. I managed to put some decent chips in the gold paint as I was doing all the fab work so decided to strip it all back and go for a new look.

1179252336_2019-03-2416_43_07.thumb.jpg.e3f0413b4bef7dc0d9c47fbc1af7f6a4.jpg

I picked up a set of carbon covers from Alibaba lovingly hand crafted by a 12 year old. They are not to bad quality wise but needed a bit of work to get to fit nicely.

1651544225_2019-03-2416_43.27-1.thumb.jpg.14a6453ba8d792d788e0cb97e5112e27.jpg

Test fitting, managed to get everything to line up fairly well.

260784960_2019-03-2419_18_54.thumb.jpg.5a7c109e6dedf3ffdc6661189681aa92.jpg

I decided to paint the valve covers a dark gloss grey to try and get them to blend with the carbon as best as possible which turned out OK.

1853259965_2019-03-2522_05_31.thumb.jpg.f19a76e887d70750b48bf86c6956bf68.jpg

Covers installed and EFR mounted up. 

1329370187_2019-03-2918_06_02.thumb.jpg.dcf2bd870fd74f52460ba5614ee7d006.jpg

Heat shield has a removable panel (not installed below) to allow access to the wastegate lines.

245939603_2019-03-2918_06_12.thumb.jpg.9dafbe11004b12ad58bdf3ee0793f1e4.jpg

I added an inline Turbosmart oil filter for safety. All the lines have heat shielding to try and protect as best as possible.

1638275914_2019-03-2918_06_33.thumb.jpg.571f86efc321be93b230ab0f253632c4.jpg

As the engine sits now, it is almost ready to start up. I need to swap out the EFR integrated blow valve for a Turbosmart blanking plate as I will keep the Nuke unit I have. I also have to tidy a few other little things and its ready to go back on the dyno to check the tune on the new EFR.

950524546_2019-03-2918_13_27.thumb.jpg.005eeb74ebb0aa9abc1ee5affbac3e67.jpg

 

Edited by AntsR33GTR
  • Like 5

Love the car and build....one silly opinion though....is there a chance with the breather from the catch can to get oil condensing in the low end of the bend and hydraulic the breather system?  I guess if the can is effecient enough than the line to the breather wont have enough oil to condense and drop ou

On 4/14/2019 at 10:58 AM, Roy said:

Love the car and build....one silly opinion though....is there a chance with the breather from the catch can to get oil condensing in the low end of the bend and hydraulic the breather system?  I guess if the can is effecient enough than the line to the breather wont have enough oil to condense and drop ou

I have stainless mesh in the catch can which will hopefully catch most of the oil mist before it gets to the lower air filter but I guess the point you raise is a possibility mate.

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You just need to remove the compressor housing, not the entire turbo. I would not be drilling and tapping anything with the housing still on anyways. 
    • So, I put my boat on a boat. First of all, I'm going to come out and say it. Why is Tasmania not considered a holy goal, an apex that all road-legal modified cars go to, to experience? This place is an absolute wonderland of titanic proportions. If people are already getting club runs for once in a lifetime 30 person cruises to Tassy then I've never seemed to see it. It is like someone replaced the entire place with an idyllic wonderland for cars, and all of the people living there with paid actors who are kind, humble, and friendly. Dear god. After doing a lap of almost all of the place I've found that it's a great way to find out all of the little things that the car isn't doing quite right and a great way to figure it all out. All in all, I drove for 4 hours a day for a week and nothing broke. I didn't even need to open the engine bay. This is by all means a great success, but it has left me with a list of things to potentially address. I also now have a 3D printed wheel fitment tool which annoyingly hasn't got any threads in it to actually assemble it. I might be able to tape it together to check the sizing I actually want to use, but it'll likely involving pulling the shocks out to properly measure travel at least at the front, and probably raise the car while I'm at it, at least in the rear. I scraped on quite a few things and I'm not sure how else to go about it. I was taking anything with a bump at what felt like 89 degree angles. And address those 10 other tasks. And wash the car. God damn it is dirty. And somehow, the weather was perfect the entire time - And because I was on the top of Mt Wellington it turns out it was very much about to freeze up there. I did something I typically never do and took some photos up there in what must have been -10 and the foggy felt like suspended ice, rather than mere fog. If you own a car in Australia, you owe it to yourself to do it.
    • Damn that was hilarious, and a bit embarrassing for skylines in general 😂 vintage car life ey. That R33 really stomped. Pretty entertaining stuff
    • Hi, I have a r32 gtr transmission. Does any of you guys have an idea how much power it will hold with the billet center plate and stock gearset? At what power level and use did yours brake with or without billet plate? Thanks, Oystein Lovik
    • Saw this replica police car based on a Mitsubishi Starion XX parked next to a 'police box' (it's literally a box) in Hirohata, Himeji City in Hyogo prefecture the other day. It's owned by Morii-san who is a local Mitsubishi Starion enthusiast. According to a local radio station blog post, he always wanted to make a police car himself based on ones he saw in his favourite Manga comics.  As it's illegal to modify a car to look like a police car and drive on the road, Morii-san tried many times to get permission from Aboshi police station headquarters nearby. They refused initially by after they got tired of that they granted him permission. However, the car can only be displayed on private property and obviously can't be registered as long as the police livery is present. The car was completed at a cost of 1.5 million yen (US$ 10,000) in addition to the car cost. A location was chosen outside Hirohata Police box where the car can easily been seen from the street. Morii-san has two other Starion road cars, both widebody GSR-VRs.
×
×
  • Create New...