Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The Old ATR43SS2 (Circa 2016) was a bit more urgent to drive, however it's a bit harder to compare as the motor had stock cams and power would nose over about the 6500rpm mark.

Where as the GTX3576R Gen 2 with generic Poncams just wants to keep going. Even at 7500rpm (at lower boost) the power was still climbing to the rev limiter (8000rpm). On the street you would easily get 1bar of positive pressure by 4200rpm and you would happily stretch its legs to 8000rpm giving you a nice 4000rpm to wind out.

Tuning wise, because the torque is quite flat, timing was quite flat too and the VE table also was quite flat, making tuning somewhat much easier than a motor that produces a mountain style torque curve.

Should be good to use the power this weekend at the track, it's been 3 years since I've seen the track.

On 18/06/2020 at 3:17 PM, sneakey pete said:

Will be interested in seeing how the IAT's hold up if you've still got the 76 in there?

Currently have the bok choy dim sum 76mm Hybrid cooler in there.

Did pick up the Plazmaman Pro Series during the week. It's currently still wrapped up, no point throwing it on before the track day as I'm sure the boost control will need to be re-worked. 

On 17/06/2020 at 11:13 AM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

The Old ATR43SS2 (Circa 2016) was a bit more urgent to drive, however it's a bit harder to compare as the motor had stock cams and power would nose over about the 6500rpm mark.

Where as the GTX3576R Gen 2 with generic Poncams just wants to keep going. Even at 7500rpm (at lower boost) the power was still climbing to the rev limiter (8000rpm). On the street you would easily get 1bar of positive pressure by 4200rpm and you would happily stretch its legs to 8000rpm giving you a nice 4000rpm to wind out.

Tuning wise, because the torque is quite flat, timing was quite flat too and the VE table also was quite flat, making tuning somewhat much easier than a motor that produces a mountain style torque curve.

Should be good to use the power this weekend at the track, it's been 3 years since I've seen the track.

Makes sense, the drop in response and the stretch up in the rpm could be partly (or likely is partly) to do with the poncams - I remember a mate here with an SS2 ended up feeling doughier down low when he swapped to the poncams, but sounds like he didn't pick up the kind of flow up high that you have when going poncams and GTXG2 (as expected).

On 20/06/2020 at 8:15 PM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Currently have the bok choy dim sum 76mm Hybrid cooler in there.

Did pick up the Plazmaman Pro Series during the week. It's currently still wrapped up, no point throwing it on before the track day as I'm sure the boost control will need to be re-worked. 

Looking forward to seeing how the Plazmaman goes, there could be some real happy wakey uppy goodness to come yet :)

  • 3 months later...

Here's some info for you guys wondering about the GTX3576R gen 2 on a stock bottom end RB26 (Head refreshed).

Mine is single scroll, T3 with .82 housing. Running 272 cams. Made 440kw on E85 - roughly 25 psi or so. Full boost according to tuner is at around 3800-3900 rpm and pulls all the way to redline of 8100rpm.

 

  • Like 6
On 28/09/2020 at 1:25 PM, djvoodoo said:

Here's some info for you guys wondering about the GTX3576R gen 2 on a stock bottom end RB26 (Head refreshed).

Mine is single scroll, T3 with .82 housing. Running 272 cams. Made 440kw on E85 - roughly 25 psi or so. Full boost according to tuner is at around 3800-3900 rpm and pulls all the way to redline of 8100rpm.

 

Keen to see your real world review after running the twin butt plugs for so long, not to mention the GTX frankenfails. ?

1 hour ago, Piggaz said:

Keen to see your real world review after running the twin butt plugs for so long, not to mention the GTX frankenfails. ?

Coming from -9's with all the fruit...

Single FTW - It rips! More power everywhere. Transient response is insane, zero lag between gear shifts, and that's with Kelford 272 long duration cams too!

Even on 98 pump fuel which is about 365kw @20psi it still shits all over the twin -9's.

And the GTX noise is just magic, it's like a HKS T51 ?

  • Like 5
  • Haha 1
27 minutes ago, djvoodoo said:

Coming from -9's with all the fruit...

Single FTW - It rips! More power everywhere. Transient response is insane, zero lag between gear shifts, and that's with Kelford 272 long duration cams too!

Even on 98 pump fuel which is about 365kw @20psi it still shits all over the twin -9's.

And the GTX noise is just magic, it's like a HKS T51 ?

Congrats on the new setup and the improved drivability mate. Got a graph?

I dont wanna do it..........BUUUUT.......

WE TOLD YA SO!!!!!! ?

  • Haha 1
4 minutes ago, Mick_o said:

Congrats on the new setup and the improved drivability mate. Got a graph?

I dont wanna do it..........BUUUUT.......

WE TOLD YA SO!!!!!! ?

Here ya go.

Screen Shot 2020-09-29 at 7.42.47 pm.png

  • Like 3
  • Thanks 1

I still don't get why more people don't run the GTX3576R and still prefer to get a GTX307R. Two real world results on this forum, two happy(ish) Skyline owners.

One has a working car, one has just seized his motor from oil starvation on the track ?

27 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

I still don't get why more people don't run the GTX3576R and still prefer to get a GTX307R. Two real world results on this forum, two happy(ish) Skyline owners.

One has a working car, one has just seized his motor from oil starvation on the track ?

Because it’s all about the compressor. The turbine side isn’t a consideration it seems. “750 hp” compressor, doesn’t matter if it can’t get out. ??

  • Haha 1
1 hour ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

I still don't get why more people don't run the GTX3576R and still prefer to get a GTX307R. Two real world results on this forum, two happy(ish) Skyline owners.

One has a working car, one has just seized his motor from oil starvation on the track ?

I was a click away from buying a GTX3582 gen 2, but glad i spoke with you before purchasing. 3576 is exactly the power band, response and drivability i was after in a street car in the 400-450kw range.

Edited by djvoodoo
  • Like 1

Oooo relevant discussion to what I'm considering for my build!

 

Im considering a GTX3576R vs a GTX3582R for my full time track car. I'm also looking to be in the 400-450rwkw range, although for longevity of the drive train and likely undersizing of my plumbs,  I'll be looking at operating primarily under 400kw with the option of turning it up on game day when I've decided its power and not driver skill that is holding me back ?

 

Normally I would look at these results and say it looks like the 3576R is going to give me exactly what I'm after, but what complicates it for me is 2 things:

1. Dedicated track car vs results on a street car. Considering my car is going to be living in the upper rev range, would it be better to go with the bigger housing for the same power in an attempt to help the turbo breathe, or is that just a waste of usable power band?

 

2. 10:1 compression ratio. I'm bumping the compression up for my build rather than dropping it down, but what does that mean as a consequence for turbo selection? 

 

At least initially, cams are going to be baby Tomei 264's because that is what is already in there and there's no funds to upgrade in that field yet. Perhaps later I will pull the head off again and go to a 272 or something more suited to track work, but I also dont mind sacrificing a bit of top end considering I'll probably have more power than I use anyway.

  • Like 1

I would say a GTX3576R Gen 2 going past 450rwkW is a walk in the park with a well thought out head.

Being a track car, I personally would want a wide power band and run a slightly taller diff to really stretch out the gears. Imagine going through fish hook at Wakefield in 2nd without lighting up the tyres and following that through.

I know going around that in 3rd is just a bit sad in a high powered RB haha.

The 10:1 would definitely give you a meaty power band so perhaps a GTX3582R in twin scroll dis dat could be a potent mix

37 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

I would say a GTX3576R Gen 2 going past 450rwkW is a walk in the park with a well thought out head.

Being a track car, I personally would want a wide power band and run a slightly taller diff to really stretch out the gears. Imagine going through fish hook at Wakefield in 2nd without lighting up the tyres and following that through.

I know going around that in 3rd is just a bit sad in a high powered RB haha.

The 10:1 would definitely give you a meaty power band so perhaps a GTX3582R in twin scroll dis dat could be a potent mix

 

I'm sort of committed to single scroll now. I thought long and hard about twin scroll, but decided against it in the end when I bought the manifold. If I was going to do twin scroll, I wanted twin gates rather than the divided plumbing from the manifold, but decided the extra heat, packaging and point of failure were issues for me.

 

You make a good point with the diff ratio though. At the moment the diff is stock, and I know it's going to be wayyy too short for the power I'm aiming for around Barbagallo, I'll be on limiter in 4th or having to go to 5th for half of the straights, which is where you lose seconds. So I know I need to go taller, and hadnt really thought about that with picking a turbo.

 

  • Like 1

I think 3.9 is perfect in terms of ratios, you can find the crown & pinon from a S15 Turbo Automatic, as I believe the R34 GT-t diff is a touch longer than the normal non ABS R200 diff.

With my limited research the C&P from a S15, R34 and R33 ABS "should" be interchangeable.

 

 

13 hours ago, Unzipped Composites said:

 

I'm sort of committed to single scroll now. I thought long and hard about twin scroll, but decided against it in the end when I bought the manifold. If I was going to do twin scroll, I wanted twin gates rather than the divided plumbing from the manifold, but decided the extra heat, packaging and point of failure were issues for me.

 

You make a good point with the diff ratio though. At the moment the diff is stock, and I know it's going to be wayyy too short for the power I'm aiming for around Barbagallo, I'll be on limiter in 4th or having to go to 5th for half of the straights, which is where you lose seconds. So I know I need to go taller, and hadnt really thought about that with picking a turbo.

 

I know a hack driver that races a skyline with an rb25 poncams and manual that has done a few 59s around barbs

He has done it with a 3076 gen 1 and 3582 gen II at around that power mark.... he would chose the 3576 gen II for balance of response and power

He did it with a 4.3 diff ratio (but 4.11 or 3.9 prob better) and only had 7 gear changes the whole lap and a setup that everyone called shit ?

 

Or you should buy his 3582 gen II and he gets a bigger one ?

Edited by bcozican
  • Like 1
2 hours ago, bcozican said:

I know a hack driver that races a skyline with an rb25 poncams and manual that has done a few 59s around barbs

He has done it with a 3076 gen 1 and 3582 gen II at around that power mark.... he would chose the 3576 gen II for balance of response and power

He did it with a 4.3 diff ratio (but 4.11 or 3.9 prob better) and only had 7 gear changes the whole lap and a setup that everyone called shit ?

 

Or you should buy his 3582 gen II and he gets a bigger one ?

 

Oooo, valuable information, I wish I knew who you were referring to so I could have a conversation. Sounds like he should be in the low 57's really ??

 

If you'd opened with the "buy my 3582 gen II" bit, you wouldve had me, but you talked yourself out of a sale first! ? seriously though, have actually wanted to talk to you about a few things on your car that I haven't been involved with, so remind me to do that when you're visiting. When is that happening again? ??

  • Haha 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...