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Hi all,

I’m going to purchase a bee r rev limiter but not sure which type to get. There’s type B, type H and Type h2. It’s for my r34 gtt rb25det neo. Nengun says type B but I’d like to confirm that’s the right one for me. Are the 3 different types just for vehicle compatibility or do they all have different features. Also does the bee r have 2 step i.e does it allow you to set two rev limits - one for launch control and the other for when the car is moving? Also, does the gain knob(the yellow one) let you adjust how hard fully sick backfires are spit from the exhaust? The eBay page says OEM catalytic converters won’t produce flames, but would my 3 inch turbo back exhaust?( not sure of brand but definitely not OEM)

also, is the bee r still compatible if I have a apexi power fc comp and hand controller? I read on a couple of forums they have ‘handshaking’ issues

Also, on nengun’s page it says the factory fuel cut limiter is bad for the engine and ignition cut is better, but I heard it’s the other way around from word of mouth, which is true??

Finally, nengun sells them for $340. Is that the price the genuine ones go for because I don’t want to buy a fake one.

I asked too many questions but I highly appreciate the help and responses, many thanks

Edited by IM-32-FK
  • Haha 1

I suggest you get a proper ECU, rather than a Bee*R rev limiter which would eventually blow apart your turbo, drive train and the works.

It's merely a terrible hack/interceptor for bangs and wank.

  • Like 3
18 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

I suggest you get a proper ECU, rather than a Bee*R rev limiter which would eventually blow apart your turbo, drive train and the works.

It's merely a terrible hack/interceptor for bangs and wank.

I already have a proper ECU - my apexi power fc. But it only has fuel cut and not ignition cut. I want bang and wanks, your warning of f**king the turbo and ‘the works’ is duly noted but I want my fun, but I also want anti lag.

1 hour ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

I suggest you get a proper ECU, rather than a Bee*R rev limiter which would eventually blow apart your turbo, drive train and the works.

It's merely a terrible hack/interceptor for bangs and wank.

I agree. After you break something, the replacement cost could have been used to buy a modern ECU. Do it once, do it right?

Edited by Murray_Calavera
1 hour ago, IM-32-FK said:

I already have a proper ECU - my apexi power fc. But it only has fuel cut and not ignition cut. I want bang and wanks, your warning of f**king the turbo and ‘the works’ is duly noted but I want my fun, but I also want anti lag.

Your ECU is not proper

Get a Haltech or a Link or an Adaptronic even a Nistune can go bang/wank/pop on launch and controlled too. You're able to set the exact RPM, timing and fuel compensation on launch with the Nistune. The Bee*R junk you cannot.

An ECU is cheaper than a new motor.

  • Like 1
  • 3 weeks later...

Spend the money on a link and look after your car.

Youll still get some naughty 2 step without the damage and the Power FC is very capable but very old.  I just replaced my HKS F-con V Pro so I could have modern features like new trigger setup and E85.  Was gutting to do but needed.

Edited by Stixbnr32

From a PowerFC to a modern ECU, massive difference.

Then throw out the Nissan CAS into the bin for a reluctor setup (cheaper option) and you'll be kicking yourself again. Or just go tits out and get a proper crank trigger setup.

Sorry to hijack

That is what I have done this week full trigger setup and link g4+ with new e85 compat fuel system.

Im no sure what to expect now I thought id just get more power haha.

Edited by Stixbnr32

You don't get more power, what you get is a lot more knowledge about how to make your engine run right. It is a slippery slope, self tuning. You kind of get to the point where you realise everything else was a bit of a half-effort-not-completed job, and its a lot of satisfaction getting things running actually right.


Better ECU's give you better control over what is happening with the engine. Better control = better running engine everywhere, not just WOT pulls from 4500RPM upwards.

  • Like 1

And with better control, and better strategies you can push your engine more (safely).

A F1 motor in the 80s lasted only a few sessions. Take the same motor, with a modern ECU, sensors and injectors you can make it last years.

4 hours ago, Stixbnr32 said:

Sorry to hijack

That is what I have done this week full trigger setup and link g4+ with new e85 compat fuel system.

Im no sure what to expect now I thought id just get more power haha.

You will get more power if you run e85 and tune accordingly...

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