Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

5 hours ago, robbo_rb180 said:

CT too expensive and more complicated to repair etc 

2 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

But back on topic, I gave @ActionDan that crazy idea and I hope he does it and capitalises on it!

Alternative to a sequential, for those sub 1000hp lol.


It's not a 5 second job, but the idea really has merit. The key is tuning which swapping to a Z32 or CD box doesn't have beyond some consideration to gearing. 

Plus it could rule me out from ever doing WTAC clubsprint, though I guess I could always remove it for that event 0_0.

In the end though, I have no idea how realistic that even is. 

Thinking about reg's, if I wanted to do say a bathurst enduro or other types of racing around the place, would a box like that rule me out of most things? 

 



 

56 minutes ago, ActionDan said:

Thinking about reg's, if I wanted to do say a bathurst enduro or other types of racing around the place, would a box like that rule me out of most things?

 

The problem with trying to build a car to regs for different classes doesn't work. I've looked at it before to try and make a sprint/hill climb, drift and targa car but too many compromises to meet reg's and it would not have been competitive for any of them.

You have a lot of sprint based stuff around that really don't have regs so build a car for that is competitive for that style. WTAC now seems out of reach for a s13 to compete in when Honda's and i30N are are going sub 1:43. 

Having a good chat with HTG tonight.

 

- They use factory torque convertor. 

- They have spun them happily up to 9k rpm, revs depends more on engine/flex plate balance. 

- They suggest only OEM oil and a transcooler I enough keep them happy.

- Adapting a flex plate to the TC is apparently quite easy. 

- They can source and ship everything.

- The GCU talks CAN bus and has been tested with Haltech all OK. 

- GCU is 975 euro, approx 1.6k AUD.

See image re comments on up and down shift functions.

 

 

 

Screenshot_20200128-214728_Messenger.jpg

  • Like 2
13 minutes ago, robbo_rb180 said:

The problem with trying to build a car to regs for different classes doesn't work. I've looked at it before to try and make a sprint/hill climb, drift and targa car but too many compromises to meet reg's and it would not have been competitive for any of them.

You have a lot of sprint based stuff around that really don't have regs so build a car for that is competitive for that style. WTAC now seems out of reach for a s13 to compete in when Honda's and i30N are are going sub 1:43. 

Who said S13 ;)

I was planning on sourcing an s14/15 shell for the new engine.

 

Also no plans to win lol just be there.

Edited by ActionDan
10 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

(Changeable) rear geometry aside, is there really any significant difference there?

Only that I can buy one "mostly done" more easily. 

 

That and some base level of chassis stiffness. 

 

I already have the S15 subframe.

On the above, it's more cost effective for me to buy another Silvia with 5 stud, a RB/Z32 box, Evo/Brembo brakes, already wide enough for 10" rims, full cage, better e85 friendly fuel system all already done than it is to buy those things for my car and do the work to install them. I then have a complete running S13 to sell as well. I've done the numbers. 

Everything listed there are things I consider required to stand up to the new motor. I may still do that work to my car instead given I've had it for 9-10yrs so selling it seems odd, but financially it makes much more sense to buy a complete car or a car minus a motor. 

 

26 minutes ago, ActionDan said:

Just wondering, why do people think Silvia's are not competitive in WTAC Clubsprint now? 

My engine builder was also talking about how Honda's have taken over and are favoured by the rules.

Easier and cheaper to achieve higher ppwer to weight ratio in a lawnmower than a Silvia without a RB swap or a 20k+ SR22VET.

Also you can't cut the guards to fit wider wheels in IIRC.

(c) Alternative materials are permitted for front and rear flares.

(d) Wheel arch modifications of OEM fenders to allow fitment of the control tyre are permitted.

(e) OEM fenders must be of original material however flare extensions are permitted to cover the control tyre.

Maybe depends on the work? 

All I did was take out some of the guard lip, then re-seal the 2 skins and fit the flares. 

Given my weight it seems I could use a 295.

Realistically though, chances of me making it to WTAC given the cost to run the event, is slim, I just don't want to rule it out completely as I think it would be a real experience. 

 

From memory (and chatting to a friend who entered clubsprint) it was something like you can't *replace* a guard with a factory guard, i.e a bolt on front flare is disqualified, but cutting up a rear OEM guard to add a fibreglass extension *was* allowed. This resulted in some dumb cutting of an OEM front guard to make it fit the same space that a bolt on replacement would not fit.

I don't think there's much "wrong" with a S13 given how well they have done with the MCA car. Some cars are easier to drive than others and old R and S chassis require a bit more from a driver than a more modern vehicle.

Turbo hondas have always been a force to be reckoned with for any clubsprint event, and so have evos. When you look at SMP it'd be like holding a track day at PI, that may or may not assist certain cars over others.

  • 1 year later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...