Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

5 hours ago, robbo_rb180 said:

CT too expensive and more complicated to repair etc 

2 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

But back on topic, I gave @ActionDan that crazy idea and I hope he does it and capitalises on it!

Alternative to a sequential, for those sub 1000hp lol.


It's not a 5 second job, but the idea really has merit. The key is tuning which swapping to a Z32 or CD box doesn't have beyond some consideration to gearing. 

Plus it could rule me out from ever doing WTAC clubsprint, though I guess I could always remove it for that event 0_0.

In the end though, I have no idea how realistic that even is. 

Thinking about reg's, if I wanted to do say a bathurst enduro or other types of racing around the place, would a box like that rule me out of most things? 

 



 

56 minutes ago, ActionDan said:

Thinking about reg's, if I wanted to do say a bathurst enduro or other types of racing around the place, would a box like that rule me out of most things?

 

The problem with trying to build a car to regs for different classes doesn't work. I've looked at it before to try and make a sprint/hill climb, drift and targa car but too many compromises to meet reg's and it would not have been competitive for any of them.

You have a lot of sprint based stuff around that really don't have regs so build a car for that is competitive for that style. WTAC now seems out of reach for a s13 to compete in when Honda's and i30N are are going sub 1:43. 

Having a good chat with HTG tonight.

 

- They use factory torque convertor. 

- They have spun them happily up to 9k rpm, revs depends more on engine/flex plate balance. 

- They suggest only OEM oil and a transcooler I enough keep them happy.

- Adapting a flex plate to the TC is apparently quite easy. 

- They can source and ship everything.

- The GCU talks CAN bus and has been tested with Haltech all OK. 

- GCU is 975 euro, approx 1.6k AUD.

See image re comments on up and down shift functions.

 

 

 

Screenshot_20200128-214728_Messenger.jpg

  • Like 2
13 minutes ago, robbo_rb180 said:

The problem with trying to build a car to regs for different classes doesn't work. I've looked at it before to try and make a sprint/hill climb, drift and targa car but too many compromises to meet reg's and it would not have been competitive for any of them.

You have a lot of sprint based stuff around that really don't have regs so build a car for that is competitive for that style. WTAC now seems out of reach for a s13 to compete in when Honda's and i30N are are going sub 1:43. 

Who said S13 ;)

I was planning on sourcing an s14/15 shell for the new engine.

 

Also no plans to win lol just be there.

Edited by ActionDan
10 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

(Changeable) rear geometry aside, is there really any significant difference there?

Only that I can buy one "mostly done" more easily. 

 

That and some base level of chassis stiffness. 

 

I already have the S15 subframe.

On the above, it's more cost effective for me to buy another Silvia with 5 stud, a RB/Z32 box, Evo/Brembo brakes, already wide enough for 10" rims, full cage, better e85 friendly fuel system all already done than it is to buy those things for my car and do the work to install them. I then have a complete running S13 to sell as well. I've done the numbers. 

Everything listed there are things I consider required to stand up to the new motor. I may still do that work to my car instead given I've had it for 9-10yrs so selling it seems odd, but financially it makes much more sense to buy a complete car or a car minus a motor. 

 

26 minutes ago, ActionDan said:

Just wondering, why do people think Silvia's are not competitive in WTAC Clubsprint now? 

My engine builder was also talking about how Honda's have taken over and are favoured by the rules.

Easier and cheaper to achieve higher ppwer to weight ratio in a lawnmower than a Silvia without a RB swap or a 20k+ SR22VET.

Also you can't cut the guards to fit wider wheels in IIRC.

(c) Alternative materials are permitted for front and rear flares.

(d) Wheel arch modifications of OEM fenders to allow fitment of the control tyre are permitted.

(e) OEM fenders must be of original material however flare extensions are permitted to cover the control tyre.

Maybe depends on the work? 

All I did was take out some of the guard lip, then re-seal the 2 skins and fit the flares. 

Given my weight it seems I could use a 295.

Realistically though, chances of me making it to WTAC given the cost to run the event, is slim, I just don't want to rule it out completely as I think it would be a real experience. 

 

From memory (and chatting to a friend who entered clubsprint) it was something like you can't *replace* a guard with a factory guard, i.e a bolt on front flare is disqualified, but cutting up a rear OEM guard to add a fibreglass extension *was* allowed. This resulted in some dumb cutting of an OEM front guard to make it fit the same space that a bolt on replacement would not fit.

I don't think there's much "wrong" with a S13 given how well they have done with the MCA car. Some cars are easier to drive than others and old R and S chassis require a bit more from a driver than a more modern vehicle.

Turbo hondas have always been a force to be reckoned with for any clubsprint event, and so have evos. When you look at SMP it'd be like holding a track day at PI, that may or may not assist certain cars over others.

  • 1 year later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Apologies for the long post, but needed somewhere to lay out the entire timeline of events and actions taken:   I've got an 89 GTR with a R34 RB in it. It's been running great all year, driven probably 500KM in the last month. It's not my daily driver, just a weekend fun car.    Build info: R34 RB26 - HKS 2.7 stroker kit, HKS adjustable cam gears, HKS turbo upgrades, Trust intercooler, R34 factory DENSO 440cc injectors, JUN chipped/tuned R32 ECU. All of this work was performed in Japan back in 2019.    Thursday 10/2/25 - It's a nice day and decided I'll drive it to work, I start it up in the garage and I notice it took a few extra cranks and sounded a bit funny. I figure maybe it was just because it was a pretty chilly morning. I pull it out into the driveway to warm up a bit before leaving. As I leave the driveway, it feels very off and sounds like a misfire. I pull it back in the garage to deal with after work and take the daily to work. I was able to diagnose it as a cylinder 5 misfire with the old spark plug test (unplugging each plug until a sound change with the engine running). I take off the whole ignition system, ignitor, plugs, spark. *Important note, it is still on the R32 ignition system with the separate ignitor system. I test each system with a multi-meter and nothing presents as a smoking gun. I put it all back together and it starts up no issue. I go ahead and order the PRP R35 ignition conversion kit. It should arrive today (10/13/25)   Friday 10/3/25 - Another nice day, car starts up great and drives great all day. Very pleased that everything seems to be OK   Sunday 10/5/25 - Decided I'll take it to play some golf, load up and drive to the course about 25 minutes away. Drives wonderful the whole way there, I pull in the parking lot and the engine completely comes to a stop. I do not recall if it sputtered at all, but just remember all of the sudden the engine was off. I roll it into a parking spot, try to crank it back on and nothing.  It'll crank and crank and not even try to start. End up getting it towed back to my house and push it up into the garage.    Items I have checked: Fuel in the tank Fuel Pump relay Fuel pump fuse  Spark Plugs & gap Coil packs Ignitor    I know the cylinders are getting fuel as the plugs smell like fuel after a start attempt. I tried spraying starter fluid into the manifold and cranking and not even a sputter.    I decided to do the live CAS test (removing the the CAS, ignition on and spinning the CAS stalk to see if the injectors pulse and spark is active). All of the injectors were pulsing and I have spark at the plug. The half-moon end of the CAS did seem very loose, I'm not sure how much play is supposed to be there, but it was more than I expected. There was no in/out play of the shaft, just the tip end that is pinned on had quite a bit of play.    CAS Play video   When I put the CAS back in, I stupidly did not re-time the engine. I know I need to do that tonight, however, I do not think it will start given it seemingly was not the issue. My plan is to do the PRP R35 coil kit and retime the engine at the same time.    I plan on ordering the Haltech Nexus Plug-in ECU once they are available again, but ideally would like to get this sorted before firing the parts cannon at it and potentially adding more variables.    Anything glaring that I am missing here, I'm a bit at a loss?          
    • Get it on a dyno. Get something logging Consult. Run it up and find out what is causing it.
    • Looking for a plenum for rb25 de+t neo  Not looking to push much power maybe 300kw at the wheels, is there much difference in flow for Freddy “Greddy style” compared to original Greddy or options like Proflow or Otaku garage?    I won’t be porting the de Neo head for now as I think it’ll be fine 280-300rwkw but appreciate the help and any experiences anyone has between them and any advice. Thanks  Looking at this plenum for now below 
    • engine wise almost no mods: stock ecu Greddy front mount intercooler Greddy forward facing intake w R33 TB stock fuel system, stock injectors, rail etc. Kakimoto racing hyper 3 inch exhaust system Apexi intake filter New NGK –R BCPRES (.8 gap) plugs  
    • Nice one @Pac - looks like a fair few 1600's there! 
×
×
  • Create New...