Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

But does anyone know if you could put a de exhaust on a det neo and just put a pod on the end of the intake manifold 

with a tune of course 

No point doing an exhaust or pod filter on non turbo motors. Nothing to be gained except noise and a lighter wallet. 

A bit of advice, google search all your questions and once you have exhausted that option then post in here. 

like having a turbo is obvious to the bois in blue but unless they’ve studied the car they really won’t know what parts there looking at

so what I’m gunna do is get a det neo engine block, gtt drivetrain and brakes etc

and I’m gunna put my stroker kit and bore it out and put the performance head on but take of the turbo and intercooler and put on my gt exhaust system and intake on and hopefully I might be in the 170kw range

if not it doesn’t really mater because I can put a really good turbo system on and run a solid psi without worrying about my engine internals when I get my second p’s

what are your thoughts on this

and no I’m not gunna keep this car stock until I can drive a turbo and save up for a gtt if that’s what u where gunna say

thanks jack

Ah. 16 year olds and their endless supplies of enthusiasm, money and unwillingness to listen to those who have learnt from making those same mistakes.

My tip is put the Skyline in the shed and don't drive it and instead drive a $200 FWD shitbox for 2 years. Who's going to be paying for the insurance on this R34 of yours while you drive in illegally modified on your L's and P's?

Edited by GTSBoy
  • Like 3

Actually I’m not gunna insure it yet lol

ive been driving since I was 6 and haven’t crashed a single vehicle 

not saying that I won’t crash but it’s a risk I’m gunna take, don’t roast me?

I’m working as an assistant at job sites doing work whenever I can and making 20 an hour which is pretty good

It's not a troll, but its a combination of inexperience really, which is fine, we all start there.

The first thing any cop will look for is a 20 year old import with a P plate on it.
The problem is a non turbo skyline, of any kind, in any form, is a completely shit performance vehicle.

Get an 86. Turbo that when you're legally allowed.

Source: Had NA+T, then 2.9 liter stroker kit (is yours brian crower too?) then built auto, then manual, then 5 different turbo choices, now have Legal V8.

Any idea you could possibly have, has been done. Some people like myself have done all of them!

You should listen to these people.
Alternatively, make mistakes and waste money.
These are solved problems by now.

  • Like 1

Yeah your all right

i had my whole build planned out but I never really thought about what has already been tried 

I’ve done a lot of body work on this car and I got it for only $4000 
 

I’ve cleaned and polished every part of this car but apart from a k and n pod filter everything other than body work is stock so I’m not having much thought about getting a gtt now

i would really like to keep this gt and just swap it later on for a det neo

should I just keep it stock and clean and put some good brakes and a solid shift kit on and det neo swap it when I get my full license

thanks 

jack

 

And no im not rich but I’ve got a decent job for my age and yes I will get insurance

was a decision I made on the spot and didn’t think through 

sorry for not listening to you guys 

Thanks

jack

?

Ok thanks mate 

saved me alota time and money

any suggestions on tires, suspension and brakes

am goin with the classic 19 te37 ultra track edition I recon

 

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...