Jump to content
SAU Community

Are N1 the best upgrade for r32 GTR

Matty George
 Share

Recommended Posts

mr_rbman Grand Master

mr_rbman

Posted
Posted
21 hours ago, BK said:

Joshua you seem to be pushing the new Mitsubishi core HKS gt3-ss turbos like they are a better turbo than the ball bearing Garrett units already available. Spool faster than -9 ? Really ? Do you have any actual experience with them directly ? Or are you just quoting the HKS propaganda ? Of course HKS is going to say their new non Garrett stuff is better than their old Garrett based turbos.

Lot of GTRs in Australia and I am yet to hear of anyone purchasing a set of these, using them and publishing results here. Same goes for the GTIII-4R and GTIII-5R - no one is using them. If these new GT3 HKS units are so good, why isn't anyone down here using them ?

Matty George, again Garrett -9 mate. You'll be happy as Duncan said with the 300 - 330kw they'll provide. Also see below.

Check this table, has a good reference for the twins. You'll see -9 and HKS old GT-SS is identical.

post-19208-1267155725.jpg

JMS in Adelaide push the HKS turbos, but they're the only ones i've seen running them...

 

joshuaho96 Veteran

joshuaho96

Posted
Posted
31 minutes ago, BK said:

Actually probably none of the above as they have already gone to a single

This is true. 

When I looked it up a full kit for -9s with HKS actuators and various bits was within 400 USD of the GT3-SS.

It’s definitely not a value for money choice and it’s only a matter of time IMO before someone figures out what turbo HKS rebranded this time and sells it for a solid 25% discount, maybe more. But frankly nothing about RB26s is good value for money.

Robzilla32 Mentor

Robzilla32

Posted
Posted
On 02/03/2020 at 11:17 AM, Duncan said:

350 awkw (australian wheel kilowatts) will require -5 and will come with a bit of lag. 300-330 is a better sweet spot and would still move you around town ok.

Doesn't this depend on fuel? I haven't seen OP specify 98 or e85. I get 360 Oz Wheel KW on -9s with reasonable mods and e85.

joshuaho96 Veteran

joshuaho96

Posted
Posted
2 hours ago, Piggaz said:

Jap is always best in some eyes. ??‍♂️

I'm not on that train. I would much prefer PRP's double VCAM if that ever makes it out of R&D, the intake only VVT even pulling the pistons for 50 degree cam advance doesn't make for a modern turbo engine response where it spools at 2000 RPM and pulls to redline. There's a significant bump again with dual VVT compared to intake-only VVT: https://www.enginelabs.com/news/spooling-up-tuning-dohc-variable-valve-timing-for-boost/

The GT3-SS is very likely just a recent single scroll turbo adapted to the RB26. Not new, but for those that want to keep the twin turbo setup instead of single it helps to modernize the engine.

Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

Yes, I did assume 98 octane, not e85, as OP mentioned it was for street use. While e85 may not be impossible for street use it is not practical for daily driving in Oz. And these days, who know's where a poster is based BECAUSE NOONE FILLS IN THE BLOODY LOCATION FIELD ON THEIR PROFILE SO PEOPLE CAN GIVE THEM RELEVANT ADVICE!!!!

  • Like 2
BK Grand Master

BK

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, joshuaho96 said:

The GT3-SS is very likely just a recent single scroll turbo adapted to the RB26. Not new, but for those that want to keep the twin turbo setup instead of single it helps to modernize the engine.

Modernise the engine with plain bearing turbos ?

  • Haha 1
joshuaho96 Veteran

joshuaho96

Posted
Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, BK said:

Modernise the engine with plain bearing turbos ?

I don’t think it’s that simple. Journal bearings do have worse transient response from the oil viscosity drag but the oil film helps to dampen any imbalance in the rotating assembly. The oil flow also improves cooling and the thicker oil film also improves longevity.

On the balance it looks like despite the cheapo journal bearings they’re more responsive if you can actually get the engine to flow enough at 2500 RPM.

Based on the dyno charts out there a journal bearing R32 ceramic turbo can out-spool pretty much everything out there. It just doesn’t survive high boost or age. The R34 ball bearing turbo does spool faster but that tells me that it’s a second order effect on the boost curve of a turbo.

Edited by joshuaho96
  • Confused 1
joshuaho96 Veteran

joshuaho96

Posted
Posted
8 hours ago, BK said:

OP has made his decision on turbos

Yes, he has. But the topic is interesting beyond just helping him decide. -7s and -9s are a comparison that has been done to death. I think the GT3-SS is an interesting alternative for those that are willing to give up some of that high RPM compressor efficiency for better low RPM response. Ball bearing would help with response for that given turbo but no such option exists.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...