Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

1 hour ago, Anel Datt said:

Hello I need help in tuning  SAFC II which is installed in RB25de non turbo. Can any help 

Since I guess you won't want to pay for a dyno you will need to pay for someone to stick an AFR sensor in your tail pipe ...but as above...why would you?

Yeah ok, so the short version is - your mixtures would be fine with the stock ECU. Which you should be able to see on your AFR gauge. 

Why did you replace the factory FPR?

Also, what are you trying to achieve by 'tuning' your essentially stock car, with a SAFC II?

46 minutes ago, Anel Datt said:

can it be tuned or need more or other options

Need a reason to tune it. (Which you do not really have, even if drag racing is what you are wanting to do). There is precious little you can do to wring more power out of an NA engine. Advance the CAS a couple of degrees and you will save yourself the thousand seashells that it would cost to "tune" it with the SAFC.

If you want more power, you are going to have to put something onto the engine that will add power. That can be NA mods (cams, porting, compression), or nitrous or a turbo or a blower. The NA mods are a bad idea (on power per $). Nitrous will see you destroy your engine. A blower is always too hard for everyone. So, you need a turbo. Then, you need an ECU, not the SAFC, which is a pig's breakfast way to tune an engine.

  • Like 1

Since you have the SAFC (already installed?) and an AFR gauge you may as well play with it so long as you understand it will give you little or nothing in the way of performance gains. Just Google SAFC II tuning and you will find articles and a couple of videos on how to do it.

1 hour ago, Anel Datt said:

Well Im using this car for 1/4 Mile drags race in Fiji Islands. I took a advice from someone to install a SAFC II where it can be tuned... can it be tuned or need more or other options 
 

Nissan has already tuned your stock ECU. You will not be able to improve on the factory tune by playing with your SAFC. 

If you want to play with it for fun, go ahead and enjoy yourself. Just be mindful that there is nothing to be gained power-wise and there is the potential to damage your motor if you don't know what your doing (eg if you lean the mixtures out too much under high load). 

Probably a good idea to detune the engine so it doesn't grenade itself with the fuel they get over there.

You can't really make the N/A go faster without spending big money, and then you'd be far better of with a turbo car to begin with.

So look at weight reduction and suspension tuning+tyres.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...