Getting fuel level signal into the ECU

[DaymoR32]

sweet, i'll download it tonight and see if it works

[r34unit]

Hi 

Can some one please confirm witch wire from the fuel sender hat goes to where on the ic7 display ? 
 

Pin 1 (fuel hat) to pin 30 (dash)

Pin 3 (fuel hat) to pin 18,19,20,21 (dash)

 

 

[DaymoR32]

you dont take the wire from the fuel sender hat. you take the fuel level wire from the plug that used to plug into the stock dash.

[Hondakid90]

Checking in on this. Got my IC7 fully replacing my stock dash. Emailed Haltech but they arnt getting me an answer I need. 93 R32 GTR Green/Blue wire in AVI 18. Red/Black grounded into 30 on the IC7 also spliced with ground from body so it's not so erratic for signal. 2 issues. 1st is when the cars not started the Voltage reads about 0.01 full and 0.29 empty. When car is on its changes to 0.19 full and 0.54 empty? Also any time I go over 3000 rpms ( doesn't matter which gear or speed ) voltages jumps .20 so gauge then drops to empty??

Edited September 5, 2022 by Hondakid90

[SLVRBAKSLPZ]

On 9/5/2022 at 4:05 PM, Hondakid90 said:

Checking in on this. Got my IC7 fully replacing my stock dash. Emailed Haltech but they arnt getting me an answer I need. 93 R32 GTR Green/Blue wire in AVI 18. Red/Black grounded into 30 on the IC7 also spliced with ground from body so it's not so erratic for signal. 2 issues. 1st is when the cars not started the Voltage reads about 0.01 full and 0.29 empty. When car is on its changes to 0.19 full and 0.54 empty? Also any time I go over 3000 rpms ( doesn't matter which gear or speed ) voltages jumps .20 so gauge then drops to empty??

Damn. I did not experience these issues when I wired straight to the IC7. are these changes automatically adjusting in the IC7 software?

[DaymoR32]

On 9/6/2022 at 7:05 AM, Hondakid90 said:

Checking in on this. Got my IC7 fully replacing my stock dash. Emailed Haltech but they arnt getting me an answer I need. 93 R32 GTR Green/Blue wire in AVI 18. Red/Black grounded into 30 on the IC7 also spliced with ground from body so it's not so erratic for signal. 2 issues. 1st is when the cars not started the Voltage reads about 0.01 full and 0.29 empty. When car is on its changes to 0.19 full and 0.54 empty? Also any time I go over 3000 rpms ( doesn't matter which gear or speed ) voltages jumps .20 so gauge then drops to empty??

hey mate,

im currently working on this now, i've set up a fuel level voltage so i can see the volts live (currently bouncing around 0.2 to 0.6 volts its very erratic) and im going to drive it till my car literally runs out of fuel. i have 2 jerry cans of e85 in the boot.

once empy will take a photo of voltage.

then i'll pour 5 litres in and take another photo (this will become my 0 litre value)

then i'll brim it and take a photo of voltage again.

This means i dont have to take anything out the fuel tank and my readings should be pretty accurate.

Will update this thread once i get my readings.

I barely use the car so it takes a while to empty a tank but i should only have about 5-10 litres left in it at the moment.

using this video for reference - 

 

Edited September 15, 2022 by DaymoR32

[DaymoR32]

And when I say my voltage is erratic this is me sitting in my garage at idle.

Wondering if one of them Haltech fuel conditioners will sort that out, or whether it’s an issue with wiring (have a relay running a thicker wire all the way to the fuel pump).

 

Edited September 16, 2022 by DaymoR32
Spelling

[SLVRBAKSLPZ]

10 hours ago, DaymoR32 said:

And when I say my voltage is erratic this is me sitting in my garage at idle.

Wondering if one of them Haltech fuel conditioners will sort that out, or whether it’s an issue with wiring (have a relay running a thicker wire all the way to the fuel pump).

 

 

Ok, I gotcha

So when I did mine, I didnt even program my IC7 display/check the fuel voltage. I just plugged the full/half/empty values in the IC7 for pin 18 fuel sender.

I have a conditioner as well. I really didnt notice if it cleaned up anything honestly. Even if you display 3 or 4 past decimals on the fuel level, you'll notice those numbers are erratic as well. I have it set to just on number after the decimal now for 17.2 gal

In your initial post you stated that gauge drops to 0 after 3000 RPM. Are you referring to the fuel level dropping?

[DaymoR32]

On 9/17/2022 at 12:05 AM, SLVRBAKSLPZ said:

In your initial post you stated that gauge drops to 0 after 3000 RPM. Are you referring to the fuel level dropping?

That was @Hondakid90

i did about 30-40k's this weekend but fuel tank still has some in, hoping to do a bit more driving this weekend and fully empty my tank. voltaghe is still bouncing between 0.0 and 0.6v at the moment.

 

[Murray_Calavera]

I haven't been looking forward to this job but I can't put it off forever... Here is where I currently sit. 

Handbrake, parking lights, blinkers, high beam and fuel level signal all straight into the dash. 

Alternator exciter module - wired to switched 12V, charge light and my dash battery LED. This is the module I used - https://bluewireautomotive.com/products/alternator-excitor-led-warning-signal-module

Haltech GPS module - wired to switched 12V, ground and the factory ECU speed signal input. Haltech Pro plug in calibration, in the vehicle speed, calibration speed 60KPH, 5000 pulses per KM. The calibration was perfect right off the bat. 

So, I originally planned to use the Dakota Digital SGI-100BT: Universal Speedometer and Tachometer Interface, to get my speed signal (the same way SLVRBAKSLPZ did) but I failed the idiot test and couldn't work out how to do it. 

This is what I tried - 

Into the SGI box I wired, switched 12V, ground, the VSS signal wire (pin 15) into the input and I tried every output into the ECU speed signal input. 

The SGI box lets you send a test signal, when I did this the speedo moved and I thought I was on a winner. When I started driving however, there was never a speed reading. Playing with every output and setting within the device, I couldn't get a speed output. Clearly I wired it up wrong... The instructions are far from helpful and appear to be written for someone that doesn't need instruction. Have a look, I'll post them here. 

So now the only thing that needs sorting is my power steering. The power steering is now permanently heavy which is a bit of a pain. 

If anyone has any ideas about how to tackle the power steering, please let me know. 

If SLVRBAKSLPZ wants to post up how he wired up and setup the SGI box, that would be amazing too. 

[Duncan]

Is the purpose of the SGI box just to keep speed sensitive power steering? Because the ic7 and Plat Pro both run off the Haltech GPS, right?

I've been running without speedo input to the ECU for about 15 years since I removed the standard speed limiter (by cutting the speed wire :)), have only decided to add it back in lately when IC7 gained odometer function which is super useful for fuel planning in rallies. No idea why but I've never had a heavy steering issue (or maybe it's just heavy and I've never noticed because race car)

[Murray_Calavera]

I originally bought the SGI box so I would have a speed signal to the ECU. I was pretty confident that the Pro plug in couldn't read the raw gearbox speed signal and I was planning to use the SGI box to convert the raw gearbox signal to a square wave signal that the ECU could read. 

Yeah I'm surprised it doesn't come up more often when people are talking about deleting their dash. While I've been googling the issue, seems like the most common way it comes up is when people are deleting their HICAS ECU. 

I'm hoping the solution is something as simple as, send constant power to the rack.

[SLVRBAKSLPZ]

1 hour ago, Duncan said:

Is the purpose of the SGI box just to keep speed sensitive power steering? Because the ic7 and Plat Pro both run off the Haltech GPS, right?

I've been running without speedo input to the ECU for about 15 years since I removed the standard speed limiter (by cutting the speed wire :)), have only decided to add it back in lately when IC7 gained odometer function which is super useful for fuel planning in rallies. No idea why but I've never had a heavy steering issue (or maybe it's just heavy and I've never noticed because race car)

So i have a plat pro. I bought the GPS module for it only to find out it only work with e Elite as plug/play. I then bought the Dakota Digital box and it worked for me.

 

I did not have a heavy steering issue since installing the IC7 and speedo module

[SLVRBAKSLPZ]

15 minutes ago, Murray_Calavera said:

I originally bought the SGI box so I would have a speed signal to the ECU. I was pretty confident that the Pro plug in couldn't read the raw gearbox speed signal and I was planning to use the SGI box to convert the raw gearbox signal to a square wave signal that the ECU could read. 

Yeah I'm surprised it doesn't come up more often when people are talking about deleting their dash. While I've been googling the issue, seems like the most common way it comes up is when people are deleting their HICAS ECU. 

I'm hoping the solution is something as simple as, send constant power to the rack.

How'd you get the GPS module to read on the Plat Pro? when i talked to Haltech at the time they said I had to put a resistor in.

 

I also dont remember how I wider the speedo module but from your description it sounds correct. I know when I was just backing in/out my garage it wasnt reading speed. i wasnt til I actually went on the road that I started reading.

 

settings I used

[Murray_Calavera]

20 minutes ago, SLVRBAKSLPZ said:

How'd you get the GPS module to read on the Plat Pro? when i talked to Haltech at the time they said I had to put a resistor in.

 

I also dont remember how I wider the speedo module but from your description it sounds correct. I know when I was just backing in/out my garage it wasnt reading speed. i wasnt til I actually went on the road that I started reading.

 

settings I used

I wired the Haltech GPS signal output into the 2P / VSS ecu input - I think it's pin 16 on connector B. 

In the ECU manager software, in the main setup inputs, I changed the following - 

Calibration speed to 60 KPH and the pulses per KM to 5000 pulses. 

I didn't touch anything else and the speed was 100% accurate when measured against my phones GPS speed on Google maps. 

Shame you can't remember how you did your SGI box. I was driving around trying all of the different outputs on it, I tried a calibration similar to what your showing there... nothing. Speedo never budged when driving

[Murray_Calavera]

Started with the easiest power steering fix first, popped a shim in the solenoid. 

I'm happy with the level of power steering assistance with that setup so I'm calling it all done!

[Murray_Calavera]

Ok this is the final, final update (hopefully). 

So as I had a V1 Haltech IC7, my internal pullup resistor built into the dash for AVI 4 was only 1,000 Ohm. Using this resistor, I had a working voltage range of 0 volts full to 0.0X empty (X as the value fluctuates too much). 

Haltech updated their V2 IC7 to use a 240 Ohm resistor, the closest I could get was 220 Ohm so I used that. This gave me a working voltage range of 0 volts full to 1.6 volts empty. A huge improvement and I could have left it like this. 

I thought that going to a 100 Ohm resistor might double my voltage range to about 0 - 3 V, so I gave that a shot. 

It did improve it again, 0 volts full to 2.5 volts empty with the 100 Ohm resistor. I'm happy with this setup, the voltages are quite stable at this resolution.

And my dash communication extension cable came in so I've got that mounted on the dash now