Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

29 minutes ago, Super Drager said:

Lol mate ive had it apart and the specs match the real thing. If you don't want one then don't buy one, i'm giving first hand experience since i own one. 

I wasn’t having a go, I was asking a genuine question. Wanting to know what you were comparing it to, going from stock turbo to one of these, similar Chinese- Chinese turbo, u have driven the name brand equivalent with exactly the same set up as yours?

what’s the context of what you were comparing to say it works fine. 

it’s a turbo sucking air into a motor so yeh it works “fine” but is it making target boost at the right time? Laggier compared to what it should be? 

8 minutes ago, UWISSH! said:

I wasn’t having a go, I was asking a genuine question. Wanting to know what you were comparing it to, going from stock turbo to one of these, similar Chinese- Chinese turbo, u have driven the name brand equivalent with exactly the same set up as yours?

what’s the context of what you were comparing to say it works fine. 

it’s a turbo sucking air into a motor so yeh it works “fine” but is it making target boost at the right time? Laggier compared to what it should be? 

I cant say for my setup as im running mine in a compound setup and rear mounted. However a friends xr6t has gone from a gcg gtx35 to a pulsar and its exactly the same power and spool wise. 

On 16/11/2020 at 3:41 PM, khezz said:

Does anyone here use any of their products or know of anyone who does?

There are a few quick reviews on other forums and a few videos on YouTube. So far every comment is positive. All the reviews say they are well machined, balanced on both ends, well assembled turbos. Yet they are less then a 3rd of the price of a precision or a Garrett.

Would be great to hear some first hand experience.

Thank you

7.jpg

They are awesome! Really good quality in machining and materials and perform better than expected. I have a comparison between Garrett GTX3582R Gen1 1 and Pulsar 3566 for what it's worth.

18 hours ago, infomotive said:

They are awesome! Really good quality in machining and materials and perform better than expected. I have a comparison between Garrett GTX3582R Gen1 1 and Pulsar 3566 for what it's worth.

Can we see it? 

21 hours ago, infomotive said:

Really good quality in machining and materials

Just curious, I am assuming this is based on the very scientific eyeball ? I can’t see how you could determine material quality accurately, and I have assumed you haven’t actually measured anything either 


 

Knock offs can work good, everyone knows that. They can also have wildly varying quality and break in unusual ways

  • Like 2
1 hour ago, Ben C34 said:

Just curious, I am assuming this is based on the very scientific eyeball ? I can’t see how you could determine material quality accurately, and I have assumed you haven’t actually measured anything either 


 

Knock offs can work good, everyone knows that. They can also have wildly varying quality and break in unusual ways

Don't you dare use common sense in this discussion! 

Just remember turbos are an afterthought and nobody ever builds a turbo car and anticipates a turbo upgrade... 

1 hour ago, Ben C34 said:

Just curious, I am assuming this is based on the very scientific eyeball ? I can’t see how you could determine material quality accurately, and I have assumed you haven’t actually measured anything either 


 

Knock offs can work good, everyone knows that. They can also have wildly varying quality and break in unusual ways

Your assumptions are third rate. When you assume you make an ass of you and me...

Visual inspection and disassembly of components by a competent tradesperson gives valuable insight.

Axial and radial clearances check out and when monitored are not changing with harsh conditions like 2 bar boost and no BOV. Drilling and tapping housings for anyone with a little experience reveals quite quickly the quality of the material.

If you have ever tightened a compressor cover bolt on a cheap turbo you will know it can be a tentative affair, not so on these.

Threads are perpendicular to machined surfaces etc etc. Fasteners are good. V-band spigots are perfect. They weld perfect. They don't distort. They exceed expectations in quality, reliability and performance.

There a a few minor details that are being improved as with any product.

They are not for everyone. Some people will never be able to accept anything other than name brand and don't have the ability to do their own research and testing. And that's ok.

 

Hope this helps the OP

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1

Haha I made an ass of you an me

oh well. 
 

I can also tell how good metal is by the colour of the sparks, but in the end it is a fairly wild guess isn’t it without proper metallurgy?

 

what are the minor details being improved?they seem quite relevant

9 hours ago, Ben C34 said:

Haha I made an ass of you an me

oh well. 
 

I can also tell how good metal is by the colour of the sparks, but in the end it is a fairly wild guess isn’t it without proper metallurgy?

 

what are the minor details being improved?they seem quite relevant

Material specification is the same as what Garrett use except for 713c Inconel only on the turbines, no Mar-M option at this point.

Interestingly, I have replaced a Garrett Gen 2 GTX3582 that melted a hole through the turbine housing and damaged the turbine etc with a Pulsar equivalent. I supplied on the condition of no warranty as the customer was unwilling to fix the issues leading to the failure. The Pulsar turbo has against all odds survived, so far.

Just cosmetic details.

 

On 1/11/2021 at 8:09 PM, Super Drager said:

Lol mate ive had it apart and the specs match the real thing. If you don't want one then don't buy one, i'm giving first hand experience since i own one. 

Should put the comp wheel on a scale and see how much it weighs compared to a Garrett. Would also be interested to see real world back to back tests on things such as boost threshold/ lag/ transient response etc. The cheaper turbo might match in physical dimensions, but that doesn't mean it's going to be as good as the real thing.

2 hours ago, djvoodoo said:

Should put the comp wheel on a scale and see how much it weighs compared to a Garrett. Would also be interested to see real world back to back tests on things such as boost threshold/ lag/ transient response etc. The cheaper turbo might match in physical dimensions, but that doesn't mean it's going to be as good as the real thing.

As i said, if you don't want one then don't buy one. If you think a theoretical miniscule variation in weight of the compressor or turbine wheel is worth paying triple what i paid for mine then more power to you. I'm more than happy with my poor-mans turbo.

What i find funny is that people on her wank over mamba/kinugawa but when another (much better) turbo comes along you won't even take someones positive feedback on it. 

  • Like 1
3 hours ago, infomotive said:

Material specification is the same as what Garrett use except for 713c Inconel only on the turbines, no Mar-M option at this point.

Interestingly, I have replaced a Garrett Gen 2 GTX3582 that melted a hole through the turbine housing and damaged the turbine etc with a Pulsar equivalent. I supplied on the condition of no warranty as the customer was unwilling to fix the issues leading to the failure. The Pulsar turbo has against all odds survived, so far.

Just cosmetic details.

 

Mate i wouldn't bother any further, they seem content not to listen to first hand experience so there's no reason to continue trying to explain anything. 

  • Like 1
On 1/13/2021 at 10:41 AM, djvoodoo said:

Should put the comp wheel on a scale and see how much it weighs compared to a Garrett. Would also be interested to see real world back to back tests on things such as boost threshold/ lag/ transient response etc. The cheaper turbo might match in physical dimensions, but that doesn't mean it's going to be as good as the real thing.

I can tell you what will happen..they will be the same..they would be made by kts...the biggest makers of billet wheels in the whole world..most places get there stuff made there..a lot claim as there own..Its piss easy to make a comp wheel exactly the same..its not even expensive..they are like $120 a piece(or where) if you buy one with a kts trade account

Thats all they do..kinga/mamba they are all kts to

Sorry guys..but these turbos are the shit.....china has stepped it up on a new level

Maybe the only complaint will be the bearing system is not up to scratch with the german etc stuff..but for most people..they wont do that many kms anyway...failing that..you can buy these turbos with aus built quality cartridges already...expect to pay another $1000..still cheap..a g42 for $2500...

Edited by jet_r31
  • Like 3
On 1/12/2021 at 6:11 PM, Ben C34 said:

Just curious, I am assuming this is based on the very scientific eyeball ? I can’t see how you could determine material quality accurately, and I have assumed you haven’t actually measured anything either 


 

Knock offs can work good, everyone knows that. They can also have wildly varying quality and break in unusual ways

Ask tao...looks like he is using all same housings etc now...

  • 6 months later...
  • 3 weeks later...
On 11/08/2021 at 11:08 AM, The Mafia said:

Has anyone used the Pulsar SXE range? Any results? I am keen to try one. Specifically the S369 and S372.

Thanks :)

Best bet is to check some US forums, i know a lot of mustang guys run bigger pulsar turbos and have good results. 

  • 2 years later...
On 11/17/2020 at 6:02 PM, Mick_o said:

You had to take it too literally didn't ya? 🤦‍♂️

The turbo is 100% a critical part as it determines the powerband of your engine, the drivability of the car, but its also a critical part that determines the engines reliability/longevity. 

If turbos are an afterthought does that mean if you build your motor  you can just bolt on 1300hp turbo onto the side of it? None of the other internal components need to be a little different? 

Pretty dumb huh? 🤔

people like that never get it, never will.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
×
×
  • Create New...