Jump to content
SAU Community

Head Bolt Access

Tobz

By Tobz,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

Tobz Community Regular

Tobz

Posted
Posted

Hey!

So I've been swapping my head bolts to arp2000 studs all has been going great till I got to the front of the engine. For noting I am doing this with the cams in the engine and want to confirm there isn't some  magical trick to do this without removing the cams.

Basically at the front of the engine the gap between the cams and the head is too small to fit a 5/8inch socket. The old head Bolt removed fine, the new stud went in fine, washer and nut all fine. Just can't get the socket in. Just wondering if anyone has any hints or tips, or if I just need to bite the bullet and remove the cam?

Cheers for the help

Toby

20210102_124056.jpg

20210102_124055.jpg

20210102_124141.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/481736-head-bolt-access/
Share on other sites
Tobz Community Regular

Tobz

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Damn thing, need to make another, needed it for the four corners. Got all 4 to 60ft pound, them on the final 90ft pound torque it snapped on the second one. So need to make another for the final 2 bolts

20210102_161258.jpg

Edited by Tobz
  • Like 1
hardsteppa Grand Master

hardsteppa

Posted
Posted

I had the same issue, but couldn't get to any of the nuts. Ground the crap out of the socket, luckily mine didn't break.Then bought a cpl of superslim sparkplug sockets; they only fitted on the middle studs - still wounldn't fit at either end, very tight fit alright...the ground-down socket barely fits and only fits in one position. Thats with tomei cams.

Tobz Community Regular

Tobz

Posted
  • Author
Posted

With the standard cams I and no issues using a 3/8inch 5/8th socket as they are pretty slim. And then needed to ground down the socket for the corners... Hopefully I can finish the last two tmrw with just one more socket :)

but pretty happy to have it almost done!!!

  • Like 1
MoMnDadGTR Mentor

MoMnDadGTR

Posted
Posted

if you don't have some cut up twisted, grinded, or bent wrenches and sockets collecting in your shop your car either runs really good or you have a mechanic lol. Most my wrenches end up grinded or bent up in some way along the line to fit just right in wierd places on weird skyline jobs. hope the job goes well mate get that boost cranked up mate.

  • Like 1
Tobz Community Regular

Tobz

Posted
  • Author
Posted
10 hours ago, MoMnDadGTR said:

if you don't have some cut up twisted, grinded, or bent wrenches and sockets collecting in your shop your car either runs really good or you have a mechanic lol. Most my wrenches end up grinded or bent up in some way along the line to fit just right in wierd places on weird skyline jobs. hope the job goes well mate get that boost cranked up mate.

Got it all done! i have to say i was super worried about snapping a stud or bolt in the days leading up to it, as usually its easy enough to remove and either retap or ignore completely. But with this if anything went wrong it meant taking the head off at a minimum. 

Anyway first two I did i felt like I was undertaking open heart surgery. Torquing the bolts seems unnatural to put so much torque on such a small nut. But after the first two i wasn't worried at all and got into a good little rhythm.

Then i got to the corners, wasnt too worried, came here for help, got some awesome advice, continued the job and got it done with no issues. Overall was a fairly simple job!

Super happy its done though, also really happy i invested in a good quality digital torque wrench last year, really makes a huge difference!

  • Like 1
Tobz Community Regular

Tobz

Posted
  • Author
Posted
1 minute ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

You skip a few heart beats when it makes these creaking noises too haha

I almost had a heart attack with i snapped the shaved down socket on the back of the head....  then i remembered it was more likely to be the dodgy socket i created than the head bolt...  was so relieved when i saw the socket snapped!

  • Like 1
  • Haha 1
Dose Pipe Sutututu Grand Master

Dose Pipe Sutututu

Posted
Posted

I must say, when looking back at it, doing head studs/nuts with the motor still in the car is quite amusing as you're in an awkward position!

Doing it on an engine stand, right next to you feels more natural.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...