Another BK R32 GTR money pit...

[BK]

Next on the agenda was to strip the gearbox down for inspection and possible rebuild. Almost wasn't going to do it until we took the gearbox drain plug out and found this...

That is parts of the selector teeth from main shaft gears. Upon pulling it down, it was found to be 1st and 2nd main shaft gears completely stuffed on the selector teeth. Someone has been playing race car shifts here and destroyed not only the synchro baulk rings, but also the selector teeth which are part of the main shaft gear. So whenever you hear crunching and grinding in a box, this is actually what you're destroying. See below - note the missing parts of the selector teeth. Really easy to see as when one breaks it leaves a semi circle chuck behind:

 

Like seriously look at this shit. Would you put this crap in your transmission ?

 

This is also what Shockproof or shift additives do to your brass synchros - it literally attacks them. Have a guess which one is a new synchro ?

Ok onto the fix. In a nutshell take most of the synchro and gear related parts off the main shaft and put in bin. Assembly of main shaft with new stuff:

 

Ok first and second gears looking good. Hang on, I don't think that's right....Did anyone notice I had swapped first and second gears around ? Whoops !

Note to self - DO NOT drink beers and take photos for SAU when rebuilding gearboxes. Check.

 

 

 

 

Ok now that looks better with first and second the correct way around ! Fast forward a few more parts later and

Finished ! Transmission done - beer time again.

Though since we were there we better inspect the transfer case. All looked good inside so while it's down we though may as well modify it to a 10 plate upgraded setup.

 

 

 

 

 

Done ! Now just put box and transfer together and fit it in car. Transmission complete.

 

 

 

That's still funny 🤣

[MoMnDadGTR]

nice work mate, old mans gunna have a sick unit when your done.

[BK]

Next was to get this engine and transmission in after trial fitting the Trust T4 twin entry manifold and Turbosmart 50mm Pro gate. Exhaust studs were way too long so they were going to need to be shortened to be able to fit the manifold once engine was in car, no drama.

 

Yay ! Engine back in it's home.

 

The car came with an NPC single plate clutch which looked ok, pretty much hardly used so we thought we'd give it a shot. One thing though was the muppets who originally fitted it obviously had no idea and fitted the wrong bearing carrier, and tried to correct it by doing this -

Yeah, they'd packed 4 washers under the release fork pivot point to try and get some acceptable clutch travel. Well this is just not an acceptable way of doing it - you use the right carrier. If your clutch release bearing carrier is too short and you do this, the release fork doesn't sit on the realease bearing carrier fingers properly. It was fitted with a 14mm carrier. We contacted NPC and they had no idea what release bearing carrier it should have, but sent through their measurements to compare and possibly figure it out for ourselves. After measuring everything, the correct solution was to remove the washers and fit an 18mm push release bearing carrier. Replaced the push slave cylinder with a new OEM one and deleted all that clutch hard line crap with a direct clutch master to slave telfon braided line. I see NPC are using Exedy pressure plates and clutch covers, interesting. So I take it NPC are just replacing the clutch disk itself with their own one.

Clutch looks alright I guess... Haven't used a single plate in years so I'm either going to be pleasantly surprised or crack the shits if it sucks. I guess it'll probably drive alright but I dunno if it's going to be up to the task of 400kw+ at the wheels and 7000rpm launches. If it fails, an Xtreme carbon twin will go in it's place at a minimum. Oh well, we stuck the rebuilt standard 5 speed box back in with some Superpro poly crossmember bushes to replace the clapped out factory rubbers.

Me and the old man have a bit of a bet going to see what fails first - I say the NPC single plate clutch, but he thinks the standard box will go bang on 3rd before the clutch goes.

Anyway after the engine, clutch and box was in we thought we'd better keep stuffing around and pushing ahead trying to get some progress with the bolt on stuff installed for the engine.

[MoMnDadGTR]

5 hours ago, BK said:

Next was to get this engine and transmission in after trial fitting the Trust T4 twin entry manifold and Turbosmart 50mm Pro gate. Exhaust studs were way too long so they were going to need to be shortened to be able to fit the manifold once engine was in car, no drama.

 

Yay ! Engine back in it's home.

 

The car came with an NPC single plate clutch which looked ok, pretty much hardly used so we thought we'd give it a shot. One thing though was the muppets who originally fitted it obviously had no idea and fitted the wrong bearing carrier, and tried to correct it by doing this -

Yeah, they'd packed 4 washers under the release fork pivot point to try and get some acceptable clutch travel. Well this is just not an acceptable way of doing it - you use the right carrier. If your clutch release bearing carrier is too short and you do this, the release fork doesn't sit on the realease bearing carrier fingers properly. It was fitted with a 14mm carrier. We contacted NPC and they had no idea what release bearing carrier it should have, but sent through their measurements to compare and possibly figure it out for ourselves. After measuring everything, the correct solution was to remove the washers and fit an 18mm push release bearing carrier. Replaced the push slave cylinder with a new OEM one and deleted all that clutch hard line crap with a direct clutch master to slave telfon braided line. I see NPC are using Exedy pressure plates and clutch covers, interesting. So I take it NPC are just replacing the clutch disk itself with their own one.

Clutch looks alright I guess... Haven't used a single plate in years so I'm either going to be pleasantly surprised or crack the shits if it sucks. I guess it'll probably drive alright but I dunno if it's going to be up to the task of 400kw+ at the wheels and 7000rpm launches. If it fails, an Xtreme carbon twin will go in it's place at a minimum. Oh well, we stuck the rebuilt standard 5 speed box back in with some Superpro poly crossmember bushes to replace the clapped out factory rubbers.

Me and the old man have a bit of a bet going to see what fails first - I say the NPC single plate clutch, but he thinks the standard box will go bang on 3rd before the clutch goes.

Anyway after the engine, clutch and box was in we thought we'd better keep stuffing around and pushing ahead trying to get some progress with the bolt on stuff installed for the engine.

hey benny boy nice work mate. fill me in on your carbon clutch ideas. ive always stayed away from carbon clutch cause we have colder weather and if sitting at the drag all day they seem to slip if cold....i dunno dumb canadain only one experience i had with carbon clutch wasnt well. cheers mate build is getting close it seems

[BK]

6 hours ago, MoMnDadGTR said:

hey benny boy nice work mate. fill me in on your carbon clutch ideas. ive always stayed away from carbon clutch cause we have colder weather and if sitting at the drag all day they seem to slip if cold....i dunno dumb canadain only one experience i had with carbon clutch wasnt well. cheers mate build is getting close it seems

If anyone searches SAU over the years, I think they will know my opinion on carbon clutches - they are the best, especially ATS. That said I do live in one of the hottest places in the world and you live in one of the coldest inhabited places in the world.

It's all about thermal management here, and carbon plates stand up to extremely high temperatures because of their high temp coefficient. After speaking at lengths with ATS and ACS the hotter it gets the better the work. The plates really need to be at about 70c + get the complete lockup effect under high torque and rpm loads, so great for me.

For you though, yeah I'd probably reconsider carbon plates. I saw your ridiculous temperatures of -40c or lower, with wind chills of lower that -50c. Well that's just nuts and could definitely have an effect on a clutch. In those conditions I'd be running a ceramic or metallic clutch, not a carbon or organic. Metallic based plates will heat up faster that ceramic, but ceramic will hold the heat in the plate better once hot than a metallic so it'd be interesting to see which one would be more suitable to super super cold conditions.

It's definitely an interesting and valid point you raise.

[MoMnDadGTR]

2 hours ago, BK said:

If anyone searches SAU over the years, I think they will know my opinion on carbon clutches - they are the best, especially ATS. That said I do live in one of the hottest places in the world and you live in one of the coldest inhabited places in the world.

It's all about thermal management here, and carbon plates stand up to extremely high temperatures because of their high temp coefficient. After speaking at lengths with ATS and ACS the hotter it gets the better the work. The plates really need to be at about 70c + get the complete lockup effect under high torque and rpm loads, so great for me.

For you though, yeah I'd probably reconsider carbon plates. I saw your ridiculous temperatures of -40c or lower, with wind chills of lower that -50c. Well that's just nuts and could definitely have an effect on a clutch. In those conditions I'd be running a ceramic or metallic clutch, not a carbon or organic. Metallic based plates will heat up faster that ceramic, but ceramic will hold the heat in the plate better once hot than a metallic so it'd be interesting to see which one would be more suitable to super super cold conditions.

It's definitely an interesting and valid point you raise.

im using an exedy triple plate. i have no idea what it is i bought it used off my friend used with a slip valve for 2 grand was a great deal as he switched to auto...BUT I've had very good luck with the Nismo copper twin plate  but i dont think its up to handle the 35psi goal. maybe tho again dumb canadian so i usually have to try things and break things before i know things...cheers mate.

[BK]

The Exedy triple is usually cerametallic plates, so a metal and ceramic mix. I had one on the blue 32 about 11-12 years ago. Was a very aggressive clutch.

[MoMnDadGTR]

it hits hard yes a little much for most people i dont mind it....definitely puts the power down lol. and axles and prob soon to be a gearbox.

[BK]

Box will be first to go. My first ever standard 5 speed box I killed was when my Exedy was in it. Not exactly the clutches fault though. The Exedy triple was very similar to the OS giken R3C, with the R3C maybe being a little more manageable. Both handle some pretty decent power, but suprise suprise, do not cope with excessive heat.

[r32-25t]

Wow who the hell worked on this car that they thought packing washers under the pivot was a good idea 

[MoMnDadGTR]

9 hours ago, BK said:

Box will be first to go. My first ever standard 5 speed box I killed was when my Exedy was in it. Not exactly the clutches fault though. The Exedy triple was very similar to the OS giken R3C, with the R3C maybe being a little more manageable. Both handle some pretty decent power, but suprise suprise, do not cope with excessive heat.

i dont know much about it but i have a pretty cool little slip valve system that came with the  kit havent set it up yet, might save my gearbox a little, maybe not.  ill pm you info in it. cheers ben. keep the pictures coming mate!

[SiR_RB]

Any updates mate 

 

loving the progress so far !

[BK]

 

On 10/02/2021 at 6:19 PM, r32-25t said:

Wow who the hell worked on this car that they thought packing washers under the pivot was a good idea 

Yes whoever owned and worked on this car showed absolutely no respect for this car, or any clue about how to go about things or what they were doing.

13 hours ago, SiR_RB said:

Any updates mate 

 

loving the progress so far !

Cheers. Actually yes, there is quite a lot to catch up on. So it was time to start hooking in and getting the ECU install, sensor wiring, fuel system, suspension and intake side done.

Removed standard suspension

 

Replaced them with some stuff we've had laying around like HKS Hipermax III coilovers - spring rates are 7kg front and 6kg rear. Rebooted them before installing as the existing dust boots were stuffed as below. While we were there also swapped in some Nismo front upper control arms / bushes and GK tech rear subframe aluminium spacers.

 

Come on get into it !

I want a beer...

 

Front pipe - 90mm / 3.5"

 

Replaced those stupid headlight rubbers that are always destroyed with new ones.

 

New wiring had to be done before finishing the intake side so wired and installed new Bosch combined 150psi/150c oil temp and pressure sensor, Haltech 4 Bar MAP sensor, 150psi fuel pressure sensor, 3 port MAC valve for boost control, GM / VDO continental Flex fuel and fuel temp sensor and Haltech GM air temp sensor.

Fuel system lines in engine bay to tank done with 200 series Speedflow PTFE. Single AN8 supply to Speedflow 602 inline filter, out to twin AN6 to each end of SARD fuel rail fitted with Denso low impedance 1000cc injectors (out of my blue 32 as that now has 1550cc EV14s), which required replacing the injector connectors from EV1 to Denso high guide connectors. Return is AN8 back to tank with the Turbosmart FPR1200 fuel reg with gauge and flex sensor. Did a AN6 bypass line specifically for the flex sensor off the main AN8 return.

 

Had the rail return over the top as below. I didn't like it so we changed it.

 

Removed the shitty engine oil water heat exchange and bypassed, which would have been full of bearing metal anyway. Rerun the heater lines to maintain heater core function. Capped the oil filter block section with a Ross block off plate. Oil filter in factory location.

 

Wanted a filter relocation so an HKS 12 row oil cooler was installed into the front left guard. HKS filter relocate block is 70c thermostated and also has pressure relief valve.

 

Bolted on starter motor, intake manifold, throttle bodies, plenum, standard harmonic balancer, aircon, power steering pump, belts and pulleys, radiator and new upper/lower shrouds.

Wanted intercooler hardpipe kit, so an HKS intercooler pipe kit was chosen and installed. Those HKS or the Nismo pipe kits have always been my first choice over the years being made of cast alloy construction. They are solid as and fit extremely well. We also reintroduced the charcoal canister system that had been removed. An R33 one was used as they are far more compact.

Stock blow off valves were also removed and replaced with a pair of Blitz old school VD blow off valves we also had lying around.

Installed some NGK BCPR7EIX plugs gapped to 0.8mm, put some Splitfire DIS-001 coils in it and replaced the coilpack harness, knock sensor harness and starter motor / transmission harness with new ones.

Also done a H4 headlight relay harness too.

All in all it started to look like a car again.

 

 

And because the old man is old school, the turbo of choice is the ....

TRUST T78-29D !

Journal bearing baby, yeah !

 

 

As I said it's started coming together finally.

 

At least I got to drag him into the 21st century with something -

 

More to follow soon 👍

[SiR_RB]

Awesome work, you guys are pumping it 

 

how much longer till she’s started and driving 

[BK]

Will have it running properly on the weekend coming up. Hopefully looking at a drive to Adelaide in May for tuning at Morpowa.

[BK]

It's alive ! Running, fully NT regoed and passed over the inspection pits 💪

 

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

Please post up dose videos 🥰🥰🥰

[BK]

I will once I have some. Just been trying to run in the engine, clocked up about 800km so far.

Stripping some of the inside of car again right now as it's going into the panel shop tomorrow for the outer sill replacements and a respray.

[MoMnDadGTR]

11 hours ago, BK said:

I will once I have some. Just been trying to run in the engine, clocked up about 800km so far.

Stripping some of the inside of car again right now as it's going into the panel shop tomorrow for the outer sill replacements and a respray.

great pic right there mate. wellness

 

[BK]

Been awhile since an update on this one. So after what seems to be an eternity of 14 - 15 weeks, it's back home from the panel shop. Just picked it up tonight-

I have until the end of the month to put everything back together. This car is also now booked in for tuning at Morpowa on the 3rd of August !