Jump to content
SAU Community

R32 Front Windscreen Molding Removal

TXSquirrel
 Share

Recommended Posts

TXSquirrel Community Regular

TXSquirrel

Posted
Posted

Hi folks, I hope to get some tips on removing front windscreen molding.

The top horizontal molding on my R32 has faded, so I order a new one.  Then I found out afterward the side vertical moldings need to come off before the top one can be removed.  Are there tricks or tips to remove the side moldings and reuse them again?  

Thanks in advance.

TXSquirrel Community Regular

TXSquirrel

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Yes I read that already, a few times actually, but it's just not that clear.  I mean, have you actually read it or you just copy and paste?

"disengage fastener from side molding by sliding lower two side molding clips" - I don't get it. Does that mean pushing the clips downward until they slide out from the bottom corner of windscreen? Also, there are 4 clips on each side according to the graph, so leave the upper two in place?

"remove side molding from fastener by pulling out lower end of molding" - Also don't get it. After the bottom 2 clips are out, I start pulling the side molding down? The top of side molding are 90 degree, won't that bend the molding by pulling down?

 

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

Given that the clips snap into place when installing, I'm pretty sure that they don't come out from under the trim. I think the sliding movement to release them just squishes them so that they flex and their tangs come out from under the lip they hook onto.

I've had them off about 20 years ago. Just fiddled around with the screwdriver until they released.

SteveL Mentor

SteveL

Posted
Posted
2 hours ago, TXSquirrel said:

"disengage fastener from side molding by sliding lower two side molding clips"

Unfortunately terminology is the likely problem here, I think, not to mention the GTR manual is translated from the Japanese and there is some 'JapLish' resulting.   The 'fastener' (PN 72725-04U19) referred to is a molded 'channel' that surrounds the left, right and top of the screen.   The fastener's purpose is to hold the windscreen molds in place via the clips mentioned.  It is embedded into the polyurethane windscreen seal at the time of windscreen installation.    

The clips have to be released from the fastener to take off the molds and the recommended method is using a shaped screwdriver between the mold and the windscreen to release the clips.     My interpretation is that the 'sliding' reference is actually to  'sliding' the screwdriver under the mold to release the clips.

In the same way, the 'pulling out lower end of molding' is actually a reference to moving the bottom part of the mold away from the windscreen after the clips have been released.    That has to be done carefully as to no bend the mold.     The mold could then be released at the top.

Anyway, having actually attempted this years ago I can say it's extremely difficult to release the clips without breaking them.     Unfortunately, the clips are no longer available from Nissan spare parts other than by buying a complete mold set.   They are available via the Heritage program, but quite expensive.

I bought complete new molding sets (front and rear) before the price went crazy and they've literally just been installed in my car.

 

 

    

 

 

Screen Shot 2021-04-01 at 4.27.57 pm.png

TXSquirrel Community Regular

TXSquirrel

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thank you all for the feedback.  I bought the top molding first then read the manual, that's when I went oops. 

I thought I was being clever and saved money to find a website selling only the top molding, but looks I still need the whole molding kit so I wasted more money instead.  Just that my two side moldings are still in really good shape, so I'm spending extra money solely for the damn clips.

Robzilla32 Mentor

Robzilla32

Posted
Posted
11 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

No more than 4 years ago.

I bought my current GT-R in 2015. I reckon every piece of vinyl and plastic that I have bought since then has cost a comparative fortune.

So, six years?

BK Grand Master

BK

Posted
Posted

Kudos sell the entire front screen trim and seal kit. I have done it and it's a pain in the arse. You will absolutely not save all of the coloured clips under the side trims - they will be brittle and just snap.

On 04/04/2021 at 8:28 AM, GTSBoy said:

Maybe.

I bought inner and outer door window strips for not too much not too long ago (like <2 yrs). Door hinges are still only ~$30 trade.

Inner door strips for white 32 arrived today. They are about $90 - $100 each.

It's the upper outer weatherstrips that are killer at over $1400 a side....Fk that !

  • 4 months later...
TurboTapin Experienced

TurboTapin

Posted
Posted (edited)
On 8/31/2021 at 5:08 PM, TXSquirrel said:

Can you please share how you did it?  

My molding was rock hard from age so I cut it in half somewhere in the center with an xacto knife, being careful not to destroy the molding fastener under. I then proceed to pull it out starting at the center working my way towards the side molding. If you look at your new molding, you'll notice that there's nothing that actually holds it into the fastener under the side moldings. Repeat with second part. 

If this is the first time you change a molding on your R32 or any older car, use a heat gun to soften it up as you pull it out. If you don't, it will tear often and you will need to remove the broken parts afterwards out of the molding fastener which is a pain. If you don't have a heat gun, just leave it out in the sun. I also put masking tape on the painted edge to protect it. Cheers. 

Edited by TurboTapin
  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • TurboTapin
      boost source Size Garrett gt28 gen2

      By TurboTapin · Posted

      You just need to remove the compressor housing, not the entire turbo. I would not be drilling and tapping anything with the housing still on anyways. 
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      So, I put my boat on a boat. First of all, I'm going to come out and say it. Why is Tasmania not considered a holy goal, an apex that all road-legal modified cars go to, to experience? This place is an absolute wonderland of titanic proportions. If people are already getting club runs for once in a lifetime 30 person cruises to Tassy then I've never seemed to see it. It is like someone replaced the entire place with an idyllic wonderland for cars, and all of the people living there with paid actors who are kind, humble, and friendly. Dear god. After doing a lap of almost all of the place I've found that it's a great way to find out all of the little things that the car isn't doing quite right and a great way to figure it all out. All in all, I drove for 4 hours a day for a week and nothing broke. I didn't even need to open the engine bay. This is by all means a great success, but it has left me with a list of things to potentially address. I also now have a 3D printed wheel fitment tool which annoyingly hasn't got any threads in it to actually assemble it. I might be able to tape it together to check the sizing I actually want to use, but it'll likely involving pulling the shocks out to properly measure travel at least at the front, and probably raise the car while I'm at it, at least in the rear. I scraped on quite a few things and I'm not sure how else to go about it. I was taking anything with a bump at what felt like 89 degree angles. And address those 10 other tasks. And wash the car. God damn it is dirty. And somehow, the weather was perfect the entire time - And because I was on the top of Mt Wellington it turns out it was very much about to freeze up there. I did something I typically never do and took some photos up there in what must have been -10 and the foggy felt like suspended ice, rather than mere fog. If you own a car in Australia, you owe it to yourself to do it.
    • QB6SAGR
      Battle of the broken skylines

      By QB6SAGR · Posted

      Damn that was hilarious, and a bit embarrassing for skylines in general 😂 vintage car life ey. That R33 really stomped. Pretty entertaining stuff
    • cosline
      R32 gtr transmission strength, billet plate

      By cosline · Posted

      Hi, I have a r32 gtr transmission. Does any of you guys have an idea how much power it will hold with the billet center plate and stock gearset? At what power level and use did yours brake with or without billet plate? Thanks, Oystein Lovik
    • Rezz
      Spotted on the street....

      By Rezz · Posted

      Saw this replica police car based on a Mitsubishi Starion XX parked next to a 'police box' (it's literally a box) in Hirohata, Himeji City in Hyogo prefecture the other day. It's owned by Morii-san who is a local Mitsubishi Starion enthusiast. According to a local radio station blog post, he always wanted to make a police car himself based on ones he saw in his favourite Manga comics.  As it's illegal to modify a car to look like a police car and drive on the road, Morii-san tried many times to get permission from Aboshi police station headquarters nearby. They refused initially by after they got tired of that they granted him permission. However, the car can only be displayed on private property and obviously can't be registered as long as the police livery is present. The car was completed at a cost of 1.5 million yen (US$ 10,000) in addition to the car cost. A location was chosen outside Hirohata Police box where the car can easily been seen from the street. Morii-san has two other Starion road cars, both widebody GSR-VRs.
×
×
  • Create New...