Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have a 55mm PWR twin pass radiator (tanks on the sides). 

I had issues with my cooling system. This is how I fixed it.

55mm PWR Radiator, older 80mm Intercooler, 16 row oil cooler, stock N1 water pump.
6 laps, water temp at 112, had to back off. 

55mm PWR radiator, new A.R.E Intercooler, larger, more airflow, 16 row oil cooler, stock N1 water pump.
6 laps, water temp at 104, but still rising. 

55mm PWR radiator, new A.R.E Intercooler that is larger and more airflow, massive 900 x 300 Oil cooler, dry sump. 
6 laps. Water temp at 85 and holding. Oil temp barely 85 degrees. 


If you are having heating issues, a few things I have noticed:

- Intercoolers sometimes block the airflow to the radiator - Get a better one. Larger area, wider spacing
- Oil coolers - the bigger the better. Takes heaps of load away from the engine coolant system
- Vacuum on the radiator outlet. 



 

  • Like 3
2 hours ago, The Mafia said:

Oil coolers - the bigger the better. Takes heaps of load away from the engine coolant system

Same experience here too, went from a 19 row Mocal core (sandwiched between FMIC & A/C condenser) to a 25 row Setrab cooler in the driverside front duct/bar area.

Water temp never got past high 90s on a warm day at Wakefield Park doing at least 6~8 hot laps per session (until the tyres gave way). Oil temperature would have been max 110.

3 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Same experience here too, went from a 19 row Mocal core (sandwiched between FMIC & A/C condenser) to a 25 row Setrab cooler in the driverside front duct/bar area.

Water temp never got past high 90s on a warm day at Wakefield Park doing at least 6~8 hot laps per session (until the tyres gave way). Oil temperature would have been max 110.

How much power is this? I'm fatally attracted to stupid JDM nonsense so I got an HKS 15 row oil cooler and I'm wondering now if that's really not going to be enough even at 300 kW to the wheels.

4 hours ago, joshuaho96 said:

How much power is this? I'm fatally attracted to stupid JDM nonsense so I got an HKS 15 row oil cooler and I'm wondering now if that's really not going to be enough even at 300 kW to the wheels.

At the time 407kW at the rear wheels.

  • 2 weeks later...

Right, so we swapped the water pumps. Haven't started it as doing other work, so it will be a few weeks, but this is the pump that came out of my motor, 8 blade Nissan. 

You can see the size difference. We measured the internal housing dimensions and they are identical. Fingers crossed this puppy lives up to its hype.

 

IMG_2795.JPEG

IMG_2794.JPEG

  • Like 2
On 19/09/2022 at 1:04 PM, The Mafia said:

If you are having heating issues, a few things I have noticed:

- Intercoolers sometimes block the airflow to the radiator - Get a better one. Larger area, wider spacing
- Oil coolers - the bigger the better. Takes heaps of load away from the engine coolant system
- Vacuum on the radiator outlet. 



 

What do you mean by that?

1 hour ago, Predator1 said:

Right, so we swapped the water pumps. Haven't started it as doing other work, so it will be a few weeks, but this is the pump that came out of my motor, 8 blade Nissan. 

You can see the size difference. We measured the internal housing dimensions and they are identical. Fingers crossed this puppy lives up to its hype.

 Looking at that, it's going to flow more for sure. 

Be really interesting to see what the HP cost of it is at higher rpm. 

 

Please do report back how it goes. 

1 hour ago, Butters said:

Be really interesting to see what the HP cost of it is at higher rpm.

Water flow rate is controlled by the thermostat. So, despite the higher maximum capacity of the pump, the actual operating capacity will be whatever the flowrate that is required to achieve the cooling determined by the water temp at the thermostat. Pump power is proportional to both mass flow rate and pressure rise. Assuming that the pump ends up making a bit more head against the restriction caused by the thermostat, then the power rise will only be because of that additional (wasted) pressure and not from any extra flow.

  • Like 1
On 10/1/2022 at 9:40 AM, Predator1 said:

Right, so we swapped the water pumps. Haven't started it as doing other work, so it will be a few weeks, but this is the pump that came out of my motor, 8 blade Nissan. 

You can see the size difference. We measured the internal housing dimensions and they are identical. Fingers crossed this puppy lives up to its hype.

 

IMG_2795.JPEG

IMG_2794.JPEG

Sweet !

 

let us know how you go with before and after results please !

2 hours ago, SiR_RB said:

Just saw reimax has 2 types of rb high flow water pumps 

 

the normal high flow pumps which flows around 220L/M

 

and a group A water pump which flows 250L/M

 

 

Yep thats it. OEM flows around 160lph, but I've never been able to figure out how the testing is done.. ie at what revs etc.

35 minutes ago, r32-25t said:

I thought the issue was the normal pump cavitates and that was the reason why they made the n1 pump which flows less to prevent it. 

 

35 minutes ago, r32-25t said:

I thought the issue was the normal pump cavitates and that was the reason why they made the n1 pump which flows less to prevent it. 

The n1 flows more according to the above flow rates + anti cavitation plate 

2 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

Average over what? Time? Rev range? Ignoring the dictates of the thermostat? Exactly what do you mean?

Meaning that it just flows more overall. Flows more at low RPM, flows more at mid RPM, flows more at high RPM? It just generally looks like a bigger pump. 

Obviously when you need the extra cooling. 

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If you take the top half of the intake off you can unbolt the flap off the shaft and leave the shaft in there blocking the hole. Then you can remove the little vacuum canister off from under the manifold and get a spare vacuum line to run to the ECU. I can take some photos of it later. Probably best to get the vacuum source to the ECU sorted first though. Mine all worked mint with the base map from the GTT an I've pretty much let the closed loop sort the fueling and took 1 degree out of the whole timing map.
    • This IS something you also have to configure in Haltech (or at least I did in the past when going from onboard-to-ECU map sensor and an external MAP sensor in haltech land).
    • I'm hoping it's something as simple as the ECU is looking for an external MAP sensor, but he is trying to use the onboard MAP sensor.
    • You won't need to do that if your happy to learn to tune it yourself. You 100% do not need to do that. It is not part of the learning process. It's not like driving on track and 'finding the limit by stepping over the limit'. You should not ever accidently blow up an engine and you should have setup the ECU's engine protection to save you from yourself while you are learning anyway. Plenty of us have tuned their own cars, myself included. We still come here for advice/guidance/new ideas etc.  What have you been doing so far to learn how to tune?
    • Put the ECU's MAP line in your mouth. Blow as hard as you can. You should be able to see about 10 kPa, maybe 15 kPa positive pressure. Suck on it. You should be able to generate a decent vacuum to about the same level also. Note that this is only ~2 psi either way. If the MAP is reading -5 psi all the time, ignition on, engine running or not, driving around or not, then it is severely f**ked. Also, you SHOULD NOT BE DRIVING IT WITHOUT A LOAD REFERENCE. You will break the engine. Badly.
×
×
  • Create New...