Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have a 55mm PWR twin pass radiator (tanks on the sides). 

I had issues with my cooling system. This is how I fixed it.

55mm PWR Radiator, older 80mm Intercooler, 16 row oil cooler, stock N1 water pump.
6 laps, water temp at 112, had to back off. 

55mm PWR radiator, new A.R.E Intercooler, larger, more airflow, 16 row oil cooler, stock N1 water pump.
6 laps, water temp at 104, but still rising. 

55mm PWR radiator, new A.R.E Intercooler that is larger and more airflow, massive 900 x 300 Oil cooler, dry sump. 
6 laps. Water temp at 85 and holding. Oil temp barely 85 degrees. 


If you are having heating issues, a few things I have noticed:

- Intercoolers sometimes block the airflow to the radiator - Get a better one. Larger area, wider spacing
- Oil coolers - the bigger the better. Takes heaps of load away from the engine coolant system
- Vacuum on the radiator outlet. 



 

  • Like 3
2 hours ago, The Mafia said:

Oil coolers - the bigger the better. Takes heaps of load away from the engine coolant system

Same experience here too, went from a 19 row Mocal core (sandwiched between FMIC & A/C condenser) to a 25 row Setrab cooler in the driverside front duct/bar area.

Water temp never got past high 90s on a warm day at Wakefield Park doing at least 6~8 hot laps per session (until the tyres gave way). Oil temperature would have been max 110.

3 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Same experience here too, went from a 19 row Mocal core (sandwiched between FMIC & A/C condenser) to a 25 row Setrab cooler in the driverside front duct/bar area.

Water temp never got past high 90s on a warm day at Wakefield Park doing at least 6~8 hot laps per session (until the tyres gave way). Oil temperature would have been max 110.

How much power is this? I'm fatally attracted to stupid JDM nonsense so I got an HKS 15 row oil cooler and I'm wondering now if that's really not going to be enough even at 300 kW to the wheels.

4 hours ago, joshuaho96 said:

How much power is this? I'm fatally attracted to stupid JDM nonsense so I got an HKS 15 row oil cooler and I'm wondering now if that's really not going to be enough even at 300 kW to the wheels.

At the time 407kW at the rear wheels.

  • 2 weeks later...

Right, so we swapped the water pumps. Haven't started it as doing other work, so it will be a few weeks, but this is the pump that came out of my motor, 8 blade Nissan. 

You can see the size difference. We measured the internal housing dimensions and they are identical. Fingers crossed this puppy lives up to its hype.

 

IMG_2795.JPEG

IMG_2794.JPEG

  • Like 2
On 19/09/2022 at 1:04 PM, The Mafia said:

If you are having heating issues, a few things I have noticed:

- Intercoolers sometimes block the airflow to the radiator - Get a better one. Larger area, wider spacing
- Oil coolers - the bigger the better. Takes heaps of load away from the engine coolant system
- Vacuum on the radiator outlet. 



 

What do you mean by that?

1 hour ago, Predator1 said:

Right, so we swapped the water pumps. Haven't started it as doing other work, so it will be a few weeks, but this is the pump that came out of my motor, 8 blade Nissan. 

You can see the size difference. We measured the internal housing dimensions and they are identical. Fingers crossed this puppy lives up to its hype.

 Looking at that, it's going to flow more for sure. 

Be really interesting to see what the HP cost of it is at higher rpm. 

 

Please do report back how it goes. 

1 hour ago, Butters said:

Be really interesting to see what the HP cost of it is at higher rpm.

Water flow rate is controlled by the thermostat. So, despite the higher maximum capacity of the pump, the actual operating capacity will be whatever the flowrate that is required to achieve the cooling determined by the water temp at the thermostat. Pump power is proportional to both mass flow rate and pressure rise. Assuming that the pump ends up making a bit more head against the restriction caused by the thermostat, then the power rise will only be because of that additional (wasted) pressure and not from any extra flow.

  • Like 1
On 10/1/2022 at 9:40 AM, Predator1 said:

Right, so we swapped the water pumps. Haven't started it as doing other work, so it will be a few weeks, but this is the pump that came out of my motor, 8 blade Nissan. 

You can see the size difference. We measured the internal housing dimensions and they are identical. Fingers crossed this puppy lives up to its hype.

 

IMG_2795.JPEG

IMG_2794.JPEG

Sweet !

 

let us know how you go with before and after results please !

2 hours ago, SiR_RB said:

Just saw reimax has 2 types of rb high flow water pumps 

 

the normal high flow pumps which flows around 220L/M

 

and a group A water pump which flows 250L/M

 

 

Yep thats it. OEM flows around 160lph, but I've never been able to figure out how the testing is done.. ie at what revs etc.

35 minutes ago, r32-25t said:

I thought the issue was the normal pump cavitates and that was the reason why they made the n1 pump which flows less to prevent it. 

 

35 minutes ago, r32-25t said:

I thought the issue was the normal pump cavitates and that was the reason why they made the n1 pump which flows less to prevent it. 

The n1 flows more according to the above flow rates + anti cavitation plate 

2 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

Average over what? Time? Rev range? Ignoring the dictates of the thermostat? Exactly what do you mean?

Meaning that it just flows more overall. Flows more at low RPM, flows more at mid RPM, flows more at high RPM? It just generally looks like a bigger pump. 

Obviously when you need the extra cooling. 

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I wasn’t able to replicate the sound anymore. It was a one time sound so maybe it was just coincidence but it was like small pebbles being dropped in a coke can.   should I try cleaning the MAF? It could be it’s functioning but dirty? I don’t know.
    • Update 4: Hi all. The car drives again! Haven't driven for long, only to store it in the garage again, but the test drive was successful. The coolant and oil leaks seem to be fixed for now. Temps on the engine were also very good, while moving I never even saw 80C water during the approx. 30 minute drive. Ate up all the coolant in the reservoir though so will have to fill that even more when I go to the car next time. One thing that pisses me off is that the RPM gauge is still f**ked, I even resoldered the board twice and used copper paste on the silly screws that are used as connections. Next time I take it out I'll take apart the board and fit new components, I'll see if I can get a replacement IC for it.  I have an appointment set for 22nd of September for the engine tune to 370hp. Alignment also still needs to be done. My hope is that I can get all the legal stuff over with by the end of this season. Anyone of you have advice regarding intercoolers? Currently there is an APEXI core fitted, one of those weird hybrid ones, 600x270x76. I don't think it's bad but it's not new and now I still have the chance to change it now to legally include it in the paperwork. Only issue is that the only options that would arrive in time are a HKS Type R intercooler or generic Ebay spec intercoolers comparable to a JustJap one. Ideally I'd order a Plazmaman but it takes over a month to receive which would mean making the car legal has to wait until next season. Would love to hear some input on this. Same story for my injectors, the previous owner was a nunce and put ID 1050x on the engine. They work but are obviously not ideal at "normal" power levels. But I don't see a reason to change them unless the tuner says it's necessary. I read online before buying a different exhaust that the top secret style rear diffusers won't fit due to the size of the rear resonators. My buddy and I made it work by slightly "adjusting the shape" of the mounting bracket and making some spacers out of 3d print for the mounting bolts. Fits like a charm. Just putting this here in case someone has this problem. Even the hefty HKS Silent Hi Power rear can fits without hitting anything.
    • Well they got my money but they are not getting my gearbox ! 
    • It's needed for rolling idle up, and I think it is a decider on VCT also.
    • I mean, not really. Link ECU's can absolutely still have errors from the ECU thinking it's getting a sensor it's not expecting. I would imagine the speed at the ECU level in Nistune does absolutely nothing anyway? I assume the ECU does not do any fancy TC stuff with regards to front+rear wheel speed or anything of that like anyway. Someone who uses Nistune may be more fluent in it. 
×
×
  • Create New...