Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have a 55mm PWR twin pass radiator (tanks on the sides). 

I had issues with my cooling system. This is how I fixed it.

55mm PWR Radiator, older 80mm Intercooler, 16 row oil cooler, stock N1 water pump.
6 laps, water temp at 112, had to back off. 

55mm PWR radiator, new A.R.E Intercooler, larger, more airflow, 16 row oil cooler, stock N1 water pump.
6 laps, water temp at 104, but still rising. 

55mm PWR radiator, new A.R.E Intercooler that is larger and more airflow, massive 900 x 300 Oil cooler, dry sump. 
6 laps. Water temp at 85 and holding. Oil temp barely 85 degrees. 


If you are having heating issues, a few things I have noticed:

- Intercoolers sometimes block the airflow to the radiator - Get a better one. Larger area, wider spacing
- Oil coolers - the bigger the better. Takes heaps of load away from the engine coolant system
- Vacuum on the radiator outlet. 



 

  • Like 3
2 hours ago, The Mafia said:

Oil coolers - the bigger the better. Takes heaps of load away from the engine coolant system

Same experience here too, went from a 19 row Mocal core (sandwiched between FMIC & A/C condenser) to a 25 row Setrab cooler in the driverside front duct/bar area.

Water temp never got past high 90s on a warm day at Wakefield Park doing at least 6~8 hot laps per session (until the tyres gave way). Oil temperature would have been max 110.

3 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Same experience here too, went from a 19 row Mocal core (sandwiched between FMIC & A/C condenser) to a 25 row Setrab cooler in the driverside front duct/bar area.

Water temp never got past high 90s on a warm day at Wakefield Park doing at least 6~8 hot laps per session (until the tyres gave way). Oil temperature would have been max 110.

How much power is this? I'm fatally attracted to stupid JDM nonsense so I got an HKS 15 row oil cooler and I'm wondering now if that's really not going to be enough even at 300 kW to the wheels.

4 hours ago, joshuaho96 said:

How much power is this? I'm fatally attracted to stupid JDM nonsense so I got an HKS 15 row oil cooler and I'm wondering now if that's really not going to be enough even at 300 kW to the wheels.

At the time 407kW at the rear wheels.

  • 2 weeks later...

Right, so we swapped the water pumps. Haven't started it as doing other work, so it will be a few weeks, but this is the pump that came out of my motor, 8 blade Nissan. 

You can see the size difference. We measured the internal housing dimensions and they are identical. Fingers crossed this puppy lives up to its hype.

 

IMG_2795.JPEG

IMG_2794.JPEG

  • Like 2
On 19/09/2022 at 1:04 PM, The Mafia said:

If you are having heating issues, a few things I have noticed:

- Intercoolers sometimes block the airflow to the radiator - Get a better one. Larger area, wider spacing
- Oil coolers - the bigger the better. Takes heaps of load away from the engine coolant system
- Vacuum on the radiator outlet. 



 

What do you mean by that?

1 hour ago, Predator1 said:

Right, so we swapped the water pumps. Haven't started it as doing other work, so it will be a few weeks, but this is the pump that came out of my motor, 8 blade Nissan. 

You can see the size difference. We measured the internal housing dimensions and they are identical. Fingers crossed this puppy lives up to its hype.

 Looking at that, it's going to flow more for sure. 

Be really interesting to see what the HP cost of it is at higher rpm. 

 

Please do report back how it goes. 

1 hour ago, Butters said:

Be really interesting to see what the HP cost of it is at higher rpm.

Water flow rate is controlled by the thermostat. So, despite the higher maximum capacity of the pump, the actual operating capacity will be whatever the flowrate that is required to achieve the cooling determined by the water temp at the thermostat. Pump power is proportional to both mass flow rate and pressure rise. Assuming that the pump ends up making a bit more head against the restriction caused by the thermostat, then the power rise will only be because of that additional (wasted) pressure and not from any extra flow.

  • Like 1
On 10/1/2022 at 9:40 AM, Predator1 said:

Right, so we swapped the water pumps. Haven't started it as doing other work, so it will be a few weeks, but this is the pump that came out of my motor, 8 blade Nissan. 

You can see the size difference. We measured the internal housing dimensions and they are identical. Fingers crossed this puppy lives up to its hype.

 

IMG_2795.JPEG

IMG_2794.JPEG

Sweet !

 

let us know how you go with before and after results please !

2 hours ago, SiR_RB said:

Just saw reimax has 2 types of rb high flow water pumps 

 

the normal high flow pumps which flows around 220L/M

 

and a group A water pump which flows 250L/M

 

 

Yep thats it. OEM flows around 160lph, but I've never been able to figure out how the testing is done.. ie at what revs etc.

35 minutes ago, r32-25t said:

I thought the issue was the normal pump cavitates and that was the reason why they made the n1 pump which flows less to prevent it. 

 

35 minutes ago, r32-25t said:

I thought the issue was the normal pump cavitates and that was the reason why they made the n1 pump which flows less to prevent it. 

The n1 flows more according to the above flow rates + anti cavitation plate 

2 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

Average over what? Time? Rev range? Ignoring the dictates of the thermostat? Exactly what do you mean?

Meaning that it just flows more overall. Flows more at low RPM, flows more at mid RPM, flows more at high RPM? It just generally looks like a bigger pump. 

Obviously when you need the extra cooling. 

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So I mentioned the apprentice, @LachyK helped take the bonnet off. We just undid the nuts on the hinges and unclipped the gas struts, then pulled the bonnet back a little as the front was catching on the front bar.  I had a good look at everything today and have removed the rams, repaired/reset the hinges and bolted it back together like it never happened. I'll do a separate write up on the repair, and I also removed the poppers from the Fuga today too to save grief down the road.....as said above it is at least $5k to repair retail. I'm also happier about my ability to prepare a race car, and less happy about Nis-nault's engineering (I can hear @GTSBoy sAfrican Americaning) because the top hose of the radiator didn't slip off.......it snapped clean off. By practice I put the hose clamp hard up against the flare on a neck to make it least likely to ever move (thanks @Neil!). I guess that puts a little more pressure on the end of the pipe as it is further away from the rad, but still, that is pretty shit. I've put it back on for now as there was a fair bit of neck still there, but obviously there is no lip on the neck any more so I don't think I'll track it again until I have a new rad. Speaking of which....more research required. It looks like Koyo makes a standard size radiator in ally which I'll grab in the meantime, but I really want something thicker so might have to go custom in the medium term (ouch) Coolant still needs a refill and I have the pressure tester on it over night, but other than a wash down of the engine bay it seems alright. And @MBS206 noted something noisy on the front of the engine and I think I agree....time for a new accessory belt and tensioners I think.
    • our good friends at nismo make a diff for it, I have one (and a spare housing to put the centre in) on the way. https://www.nismo.co.jp/products/web_catalogue/lsd/mechanical_lsd_v37.html AMS also make a helical one, but I prefer mechanical for track use in 2wd (I do run a quaife in the front, but not rear of the R32)
    • What are we supposed to be seeing in the photo of the steering angle sensor? The outer housing doesn't turn, right? All the action is on the inside. The real test here is whether or not your car has had the steering put back together by a butcher. When the steering is centred (and we're not caring about the wheel too much here, we're talking about the front wheels, parallel, facing front) then you should have an absolutely even number of turns from centre to left lock and centre to right lock. If there is any difference at all then perhaps the thing has been put back together wrongly, either the steering wheel put on one spline (or more!) off, and the alignment bodged to straighteb the wheel, or the opposite where something silly was done underneath and the wheel put back on crooked to compensate. Nut there isn't actually much evidence that you have such a problem anyway. It is something you can easily measure and test for to find out though. My money is still on the HICAS CU not driving the PS solenoid with the proper PWM signal required to lighten the load at lower speed. If it were me, I would be putting either a multimeter or oscilloscope onto the solenoid terminals and taking it for a drive, looking for the voltage to change. The PWM signal is 0v, 12V, 0V, 12v with ...obviously...modulated pulse width. You should see that as an average voltage somewhere between 0V and 12V, and it should vary with speed. An handheld oscilloscope would be the better tool for this, because they are definitely good enough but there's no telling if any cheap shit multimeter that people have lying around are good enough. You can also directly interfere with the solenoid. If you wire up a little voltage divider with variable resistor on it, and hook the PS solenoid direct to 12V through that, you can manually adjust the voltage to the solenoid and you should be able to make it go ligheter and heavier. If you cannot, then the problem is either the solenoid itself dead, or your description of the steering being "tight" (which I have just been assuming you mean "heavy") could be that you have a mechanical problem in the steering and there is heaps of resistance to movement.
    • Little update  I have shimmed the solenoid on the rack today following Keep it Reets video on YouTube. However my steering is still tight. I have this showing on Nisscan, my steering angle sensor was the closest to 0 degrees (I could get it to 0 degrees by small little tweaks, but the angle was way off centre? I can't figure this out for the life of me. I get no faults through Nisscan. 
    • The BES920 is like the Toyota Camrys of coffee machines. E61 group head is cool, however the time requirements for home use makes it less desirable. The Toyota Camry coffee machine runs twin boilers and also PID temp control, some say it produces coffees as good as an E61 group head machine.
×
×
  • Create New...