Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

1 hour ago, GTSBoy said:

Do you mean "reuse"?

Yes

i mean, it’s been crushed, compressed and shaped to seal the stock upper plenum, and since I’m gonna put the plazmaman upper half now, I was thinking it might not seal it 100%. By the way it’s a MLS steel shim gasket.

Edited by IM-32-FK
On 15/4/2023 at 1:14 PM, R3N3 said:

Wiring is pretty simple. The pedal and the throttle wire directly to the ecu. Remember you’re removing the aac and tps, so should free up some I/O at the ECU At the same time.

the pedal is essentially 2x tps sensors. It has 2x 5v, 2x signal ground and 2x signal wires. The 5v and signal ground can be common. So 4 wires total.

the throttle is essentially the same but with 12v stepper motor wires.

also remember that there is some re-routing of coolant hoses under the plenum when doing DBW. Check my build thread for info if you need.

I’m starting to worry. The guy at link said I need to run 3 AN volt inputs and 3 Aux channels for the DBW.

I don’t see any aux channel plus I also need to run a IAT, flex fuel sensor and a boost control missile switch. Will I have enough I/O? It’s a Gttlink plugin

do they all need to run to the expansion ports? Here is a pic of the expansion ports

 

5E8C9F82-4821-42D1-9140-644DF592C7D6.jpeg

have they released the canbus keypad integration for them yet? They were working on it for a while, but no idea if it's released to market.

Means you won't need to torch any inputs for switches.

56 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

have they released the canbus keypad integration for them yet? They were working on it for a while, but no idea if it's released to market.

Means you won't need to torch any inputs for switches.

Only on g4x

 

Get the external ethrottle unit, have used them on old g4 with no issues. Can find them cheaper than prp.

  • Like 1
On 4/17/2023 at 2:46 PM, robbo_rb180 said:

Only on g4x

 

Get the external ethrottle unit, have used them on old g4 with no issues. Can find them cheaper than prp.

G4+ can definitely do can keypads

  • Like 1
6 hours ago, IM-32-FK said:

I’m starting to worry. The guy at link said I need to run 3 AN volt inputs and 3 Aux channels for the DBW.

I don’t see any aux channel plus I also need to run a IAT, flex fuel sensor and a boost control missile switch. Will I have enough I/O? It’s a Gttlink plugin

do they all need to run to the expansion ports? Here is a pic of the expansion ports

 

5E8C9F82-4821-42D1-9140-644DF592C7D6.jpeg

Not sure sorry, I’m not familiar with Link.

I suggest downloading the wiring diagram for your exact ECU and start mapping everything out to a pin. As noted above, things like a CAN keypad will save inputs. This will tell you if you need to consider expansion modules, external DBW driver etc.

be careful, as some pins may be DBW specific or some may not be suitable for temp sensors etc. or maybe Link do that better than Haltech..

1 hour ago, Ben C34 said:

G4+ can definitely do can keypads

Thought needed pdm for that function. When I asked link said it couldn't. Cheers for that info.

@Dose Pipe Sutututu @Duncan @robbo_rb180 @Ben C34 @R3N3

I spoke with whoever runs the Facebook Link ecu page and he said I won’t be able to run IAT, flex fuel sensor, boost setting switch and DBW all at the same time because their isn’t enough I/O, even after the spare I/O’s I get after deleting IACV and TPS. He said “e throttle is I/O intensive”.

He came up with a solution for me. He told me to send the ecu out to their office to get it modified. “The next option would be to have the board modified to drive E throttle directly rather than using the module. We can then add in additional wires to access other I/O that is not currently wired to a connector.”

So he is going to hardwire 4 AN inputs and 2 aux inputs to the ecu and I connect the dbw to that.

best of all, this mod means I don’t need to buy the $500 link e throttle module, and I’m getting charged $200-250 to get it modified.

Now I got enough I/O to connect the flex sensor, iat and boost switch through the expansion loom.

I sent it off earlier today. cheering

 

 

 

Edited by IM-32-FK
  • Like 7

Their support is awesome

The link forum is very good also, and they respond quite quick there too, and do heaps of work helping people out, far beyond what I would consider reasonable!

  • Like 1

what else do you guys recommend I upgrade for the safe and healthy functioning of the rb25det neo motor around ~400kw?

would an n1 oil pump be a good upgrade? They are gtr gear but will it fit a neo?

 

1 minute ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

It already runs a N1 oil pump.

A nice big sump would be good insurance.

DET neo comes factory with n1 oil pump? Well that’s news to me (neo also has rb26 piston rods)

what sump do you recommend ?

also since the plenum is coming off I should change the thermostat too. Do you recommend oem or aftermarket? Lower or higher temp?

  • 3 weeks later...
On 19/4/2023 at 9:16 AM, Murray_Calavera said:

The Lewis engine one looks nice, says it’s got a 6L capacity, it’s baffled and gated. But I was doing some research and it said that with higher capacity sumps, it causes the head have more oil, which can cook it. Please advise.

9 minutes ago, IM-32-FK said:

The Lewis engine one looks nice, says it’s got a 6L capacity, it’s baffled and gated. But I was doing some research and it said that with higher capacity sumps, it causes the head have more oil, which can cook it. Please advise.

It's not really the extended sump causing issues, but the higher flowing oil pump that normally goes along with the extended sump. If the head can only drain at X but the bigger pump is flowing Y into the head, you get the idea. 

So the issue of oil pooling in the head needs to be addressed. I believe both the Lewis modified sump and the Aeroflow sump have fittings to allow you to vent the sump to the catch can. This is the main issue, blow-by builds in the bottom on the motor slowing the return/drain of oil from the head. 

Up to you if you want to do anything further like head drain/enlarged oil returns/oil restrictors in the head/etc 

What oil pump will you be using?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Surely somebody has one in VIC. Have you asked at any shops?  Is this the yearly inspection or did you get a canary?
    • This is where I share pain with you, @Duncan. The move to change so many cooling system pieces to plastic is a killer! Plastic end tanks and a few plastic hose flanges on my car's fail after so little time.  Curious about the need for a bigger rad, is that just for long sessions in the summer or because the car generally needs more cooling?
    • So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
    • OK, so regardless of whether you did Step 1 - Spill Step 2 - Trans pan removal Step 3 - TCM removal we are on to the clean and refill. First, have a good look at the oil pan. While you might see dirty oil and some carbony build up (I did), what you don't want to see is any metal particles on the magnets, or sparkles in the oil (thankfully not). Give it all a good clean, particularly the magnets, and put the new gasket on if you have one (or, just cross your fingers) Replacement of the Valve body (if you removed it) is the "reverse of assembly". Thread the electrical socket back up through the trans case, hold the valve body up and put in the bolts you removed, with the correct lengths in the correct locations Torque for the bolts in 8Nm only so I hope you have that torque wrench handy (it feels really loose). Plug the output speed sensor back in and clip the wiring into the 2 clips, replace the spring clip on the TCM socket and plug it back into the car loom. For the pan, the workshop manual states the following order: Again, the torque is 8Nm only.
×
×
  • Create New...