Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I need to pull my engine when I fit a new gearbox and will change over my head drain (Spool) to something nicer and get the plumbing to the dry sump tidied up. I was doing some googling to see what was around and came across this product, according to the video it removes water from the back of the head where it gets hot.

https://www.platinumracingproducts.com/products/rb-double-head-drain-oil-coolant

I'm not aware of this issue with RB's, is this just PRP selling us something we don't need because it looks great? 

 

It does mention grout filled blocks, so maybe it's applicable to those setups?

Plenty of SAU guys race their cars from grassroots motorsports (me) all the way to competition level ( @Duncan @34GeeTeeTee etc.) and we all don't have issues with water cooling or flow, it's more so keeping oil temps within its working parameters.

  • Like 1

I suspect that's who it's aimed at. Just to be clear, I don't have any cooling issues; I've spent plenty of time and money on the cooling system and it's got a 3 pass radiator, swirl pot and header tank which bleeds the system of air. 

I'd be interested to see if there was a temperature difference across the head significant enough to impact mixtures.

 

I have this head drain on my engine setup. It was already on the complete engine I bought when I got it.

We used the oil drain line to the sump and blocked the water line, others that run the same setup mine is based off for motorsport use and recommend the water line. 

Btw - I have a spare brand new one for sale if you want it 😄

Edited by bcozican
  • Like 1

People have been racing RBs for more than 2 decades on circuits without issue, if it was an issue HKS/GReddy/Tomei, etc. would have addressed this problem decades ago.

Like how HKS brought out the V-Cam setup for RB26 owners wanting more low down.

20 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

People have been racing RBs for more than 2 decades on circuits without issue, if it was an issue HKS/GReddy/Tomei, etc. would have addressed this problem decades ago.

Like how HKS brought out the V-Cam setup for RB26 owners wanting more low down.

The head that HKS did for me back in 2010 did add a fitting in the back of the head. -8 line around the front and tee’d in somewhere. Can’t remember where.

No idea if it does anything or not.

4B3887B2-0895-4570-BB2A-E57E14D526DB.png

  • Like 1
2 hours ago, bcozican said:

I have this head drain on my engine setup. It was already on the complete engine I bought when I got it.

We used the oil drain line to the sump and blocked the water line, others that run the same setup mine is based off for motorsport use and recommend the water line. 

Btw - I have a spare brand new one for sale if you want it 😄

Pm in coming.

  • 1 month later...

My engine builder builds many high power track RB's,  lots of dollars in the head, when I asked about the rear coolant drain he talked me out of it, so just doing oil drain only.

My previous experience with PRP is the bloke who runs it likes to sell all sorts of stuff and talk you into all sorts of stuff whether it benefits you, or whether it doesn't benefit you.

Edited by RB335
  • Like 3

Interesting thought to have:

People are saying water coolant temps are easy to keep down.

However, some need a lot of work on oil cooling.

Water temps are normally taken at the front of the motor or on the rad inlet/outlets.

Water and oil flow very differently in the motor.

 

What if, your oil is doing the majority of the cooling in the back of the engine?

Wouldn't this mean better water flow, less struggle with oil temps...

 

There is a reason those water heat exchangers work not only to help warm up the water quickly at startup, but also stabilise oil temperatures when oil starts to get warmer than water temp.

Possibly people using those oil/water heat exchangers could help with their oil temps too if oil temps are getting higher than water temp...

 

Just a few thoughts, as the issue people have is high oil temps in racing, which could be from poor thermal management, particularly from water flow...

  • 5 months later...
On 4/3/2023 at 8:30 PM, RB335 said:

My engine builder builds many high power track RB's,  lots of dollars in the head, when I asked about the rear coolant drain he talked me out of it, so just doing oil drain only.

My previous experience with PRP is the bloke who runs it likes to sell all sorts of stuff and talk you into all sorts of stuff whether it benefits you, or whether it doesn't benefit you.

My experience with the guy that runs PRP (Herman) is quite the opposite. He has talked me out of purchases more than into one. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sorry, are coilovers ACTUALLY ILLEGAL in NSW? They aren't in Vic, as long as they retain 70% of stock travel and the car is above 100mm off the ground. Does NSW actually have a law making coilovers actually illegal? RWC/Blue Slip/Engineering people not knowing the actual f**king laws boils my blood. Demand them to point to the documentation that states a coilover is illegal. (it may exist in NSW )
    • But seriously, can we ask for the results of the "tip a bottle of metho into a nearly empty tank" experiment?
    • Hang on. Let me get this straight. The desire is to have coilovers, BC in particular, to be MORE comfortable on Sydney roads than stock suspension? Well, that's obviously not right. BCs have crude damping design at the very best, and typically hard spring rates. BC stands for Billy Cart. And then, the desire is to put in some shitty old worn out stockers, to get it blue slipped and then put the BCs back in? And then.....what? Not worry about getting pulled up by the Plod? Because you seem to have raised a worry about paying for engineering (which actually does solve all your legality problems) and still getting pulled up.... but the only problem there is that if/when that happens you have to show your paperwork at the inspection station. Whereas, if you just swap in borrowed shitty old stockers to get it slipped now, and then you get defected in the future, you have to go find more shitty old stockers then too. You course of action looks like this set of options: Buy brand new stock type dampers, and springs. probably cost a bit more than $1k all up, but will last for the remaining life of the car. Put them in, pass inspection, drive on them forever more. Hell, they could even be really nice Bilsteins and Kings or other lower&stiffer springs if you wanted. Get the car engineered as is. ~$1k. Buy new Shockworks coilvers (or MCA) and also pay for engineering. You're spending a lot more here. But these will be the best things that you could drive around on.
    • Might be worthwhile hitting up Facebook's groups, I know most of them contain terrible people and scammers - however you might be able to find someone that's in Sydney with factory suspension you could purchase and/or hire. Just do not send any form of money anywhere, in person cash only.
×
×
  • Create New...