Jump to content
SAU Community

Tapping, knocking, marble like sound coming from engine

kevboost7
 Share

Recommended Posts

kevboost7 Community Regular

kevboost7

Posted
Posted

Alright forum gods, i need your help again. RB26 just recently started making this very light tapping/knocking noise in the engine. It almost sounds like a bunch of marbles being tossed together. It just recently started happening or i might be going crazy because i didn't notice it before. It happens at idle, SOMETIMES. But it goes away the more i rev the engine. I'm not sure if i can't hear it because of my exhaust or if it actually goes away, but the sound DOSENT get louder the harder i drive it. In fact, the more gas i give it, it typically goes away but will occasionally come back. 

I did some research and i think it could be the lifters, i dont know too much about them besides that they help the valve open and close. Any remedy to this? And i'm i still safe to drive with it in the mean time? The weather is great now. 

 

TurboTapin Experienced

TurboTapin

Posted
Posted
46 minutes ago, kevboost7 said:

Alright forum gods, i need your help again. RB26 just recently started making this very light tapping/knocking noise in the engine. It almost sounds like a bunch of marbles being tossed together. It just recently started happening or i might be going crazy because i didn't notice it before. It happens at idle, SOMETIMES. But it goes away the more i rev the engine. I'm not sure if i can't hear it because of my exhaust or if it actually goes away, but the sound DOSENT get louder the harder i drive it. In fact, the more gas i give it, it typically goes away but will occasionally come back. 

I did some research and i think it could be the lifters, i dont know too much about them besides that they help the valve open and close. Any remedy to this? And i'm i still safe to drive with it in the mean time? The weather is great now. 

 

If you're unaccustomed to engine internals and noises, you should cease driving it and seek a local mechanic. You only seem to be assuming it's lifters based on very little information. "Marbles" does not sound good. 

kevboost7 Community Regular

kevboost7

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Alright so at the same time this tapping sound is happening, i'm also chasing a misfire from those red coil packs. On my way home from the store just now, it started misfiring really bad. I drove straight home immediately. The car was shaking at the stop light but it eventually went away when i started driving it. 

Could the tapping/knocking and the misfire be linked? 

When i say misfire, it acts like it dosent want to go past 4000k RPM for a few seconds and it eventually breaks past it and will drive normally. This happens very sporadically but on 50% of my drives. Spark plugs are already changed. 

joshuaho96 Veteran

joshuaho96

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, kevboost7 said:

Alright forum gods, i need your help again. RB26 just recently started making this very light tapping/knocking noise in the engine. It almost sounds like a bunch of marbles being tossed together. It just recently started happening or i might be going crazy because i didn't notice it before. It happens at idle, SOMETIMES. But it goes away the more i rev the engine. I'm not sure if i can't hear it because of my exhaust or if it actually goes away, but the sound DOSENT get louder the harder i drive it. In fact, the more gas i give it, it typically goes away but will occasionally come back. 

I did some research and i think it could be the lifters, i dont know too much about them besides that they help the valve open and close. Any remedy to this? And i'm i still safe to drive with it in the mean time? The weather is great now. 

 

I would start by making sure that it isn't rod knock or low oil pressure. Until you diagnose where the noise is coming from you aren't going to figure this out.

joshuaho96 Veteran

joshuaho96

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, r32-25t said:

Why are you still driving with those coil when you know they are faulty?

I felt bad just going maybe 50 yards with my cylinder 1 coilpack melting down, I have no idea how people are ok with doing this for miles and miles. The stock ECU is so basic it has no idea that something is wrong and to shut down fuel injection.

joshuaho96 Veteran

joshuaho96

Posted
Posted
50 minutes ago, kevboost7 said:

I dont know, im just ignorant. im not driving it anymore till i figure it out. 

Well, at least there's some hope that the engine can still be salvaged if you didn't just drive on it until you windowed the block.

joshuaho96 Veteran

joshuaho96

Posted
Posted
45 minutes ago, kevboost7 said:

I'm not taking it to the mechanic. 

That's where I'm at these days. Far too many cases where "good mechanics" have done something to my R33 so I no longer trust most people to work on it. As mentioned before none of us really know if your issue is rod knock or not. I just mention it because you want to eliminate the worst case possibilities first before spending time/effort/money/heartache on what I can only describe as copium/hopium fixes. 

Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

description doesn't sound like classic rod knock, that tends to get worse from idle to 2000.

does it only happen when you are driving/full throttle/medium revs and sound like rocks rattling in a tin? that would be pinging.

Maybe take a recording of the noise to give us a chance

joshuaho96 Veteran

joshuaho96

Posted
Posted
On 5/6/2023 at 2:38 PM, Duncan said:

description doesn't sound like classic rod knock, that tends to get worse from idle to 2000.

does it only happen when you are driving/full throttle/medium revs and sound like rocks rattling in a tin? that would be pinging.

Maybe take a recording of the noise to give us a chance

I agree but someone local to me had rocks rattling in a tin as the symptoms and it went away with load/revs. Turns out he was wrong to ignore it and it wasn't just a bad input shaft bearing or something like that. It's surprising how idiosyncratic failures can be.

  • Like 1
MBS206 Grand Master

MBS206

Posted
Posted
On 5/7/2023 at 1:28 AM, kevboost7 said:

I'm not taking it to the mechanic. 

You've got little mechanical knowledge, but an issue that could potentially cost you an engine you won't seek out a professionals help to at least start to diagnose?

 

Rattles like described can be a lot of things.

It could be lifters, it could be oil pressure issues, it could be a bearing noise, it could be a baffle in your exhaust.

 

Since you've also got issues on the coil packs, you may have other fatal issues that have now cropped up.

With the coil packs failing, did you ever have anyone or yourself adjust the position of the Cam Angle Sensor?

The car might be pinging off it's head down near idle (which could destroy your engine very quickly).

  • Like 2
MBS206 Grand Master

MBS206

Posted
Posted
2 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

*looks into crystal ball* 

kevboost7: I'm wondering how much a basic rebuild will cost? Also should I replace those red coil packs at the same time?

*Shakes magic 8 ball*

"No, keep the red coil packs with the rebuilt motor..."

  • Haha 1
admS15 Grand Master

admS15

Posted
Posted
On 09/05/2023 at 3:51 PM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

*looks into crystal ball* 

kevboost7: I'm wondering how much a basic rebuild will cost? Also should I replace those red coil packs at the same time?

 

On 09/05/2023 at 6:52 PM, MBS206 said:

*Shakes magic 8 ball*

"No, keep the red coil packs with the rebuilt motor..."

I hear that those yellow ones are better 🤣🤣🤣

  • Haha 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      7 Speed Auto transmission fluid change (Skyline, Q50, Q60, Fuga, Q70, A62 Titan and probably heaps of others including Navara...)

      By Duncan · Posted

      I thought I'd do a write up on an auto transmission fluid change for a the nissan 7 speed Automatic. At some stage the genius engineers decided that the fluid in the trans was "for the life of the transmission", (which seems kind of self supporting to me) and removed the dip stick and fill tube (funnily enough there is still a casting for it). Anyway, for this job you do need 2 specialist tools in addition to regular hand tools, jack and good chassis stands. You need a way to pump fluid up to the transmission; I got one of these but there are plenty of other options: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/364584087070 Don't trust the generic listing though, it does not come with the required adapter for the Nissan 7 Speed. You need one of these, can't do the job without it: https://navarapart.com.au/product/genuine-nissan-patrol-y62-d23-np300-navara-re7-dipstick-fill-connector1 You need a heap of compatible transmission oil. Could be Nissan, could be anything else rated for Nissan Matic S. You need at least 10 litres, I had 15 to give it a better flush... Also, you need some biiig oil catch trays, at least one of these, or bigger if possible (volume was fine, size was very marginal): https://autobarn.com.au/ab/Autobarn-Category/Tools-%26-Garage/Specialty-Tools/Oil-Service/Garage-Tough-Oil-Drain-Pan-Black-16L---GT1068/p/TO03191 Finally, a measuring jug is very useful if your pump does not have volumes marked on it, I got a 6l one: https://www.repco.com.au/oils-fluids/fluid-accessories/measuring-jugs/penrite-measuring-jug-6l-pmj006/p/A5322648 Oh, and gloves.....this stuff is horrible (not as bad as diff oil, but getting there) ....First, jack up your car.....
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I mentioned the apprentice, @LachyK helped take the bonnet off. We just undid the nuts on the hinges and unclipped the gas struts, then pulled the bonnet back a little as the front was catching on the front bar.  I had a good look at everything today and have removed the rams, repaired/reset the hinges and bolted it back together like it never happened. I'll do a separate write up on the repair, and I also removed the poppers from the Fuga today too to save grief down the road.....as said above it is at least $5k to repair retail. I'm also happier about my ability to prepare a race car, and less happy about Nis-nault's engineering (I can hear @GTSBoy sAfrican Americaning) because the top hose of the radiator didn't slip off.......it snapped clean off. By practice I put the hose clamp hard up against the flare on a neck to make it least likely to ever move (thanks @Neil!). I guess that puts a little more pressure on the end of the pipe as it is further away from the rad, but still, that is pretty shit. I've put it back on for now as there was a fair bit of neck still there, but obviously there is no lip on the neck any more so I don't think I'll track it again until I have a new rad. Speaking of which....more research required. It looks like Koyo makes a standard size radiator in ally which I'll grab in the meantime, but I really want something thicker so might have to go custom in the medium term (ouch) Coolant still needs a refill and I have the pressure tester on it over night, but other than a wash down of the engine bay it seems alright. And @MBS206 noted something noisy on the front of the engine and I think I agree....time for a new accessory belt and tensioners I think.
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      our good friends at nismo make a diff for it, I have one (and a spare housing to put the centre in) on the way. https://www.nismo.co.jp/products/web_catalogue/lsd/mechanical_lsd_v37.html AMS also make a helical one, but I prefer mechanical for track use in 2wd (I do run a quaife in the front, but not rear of the R32)
    • GTSBoy
      R33 persistent issues. P/steering and lag/misfire

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      What are we supposed to be seeing in the photo of the steering angle sensor? The outer housing doesn't turn, right? All the action is on the inside. The real test here is whether or not your car has had the steering put back together by a butcher. When the steering is centred (and we're not caring about the wheel too much here, we're talking about the front wheels, parallel, facing front) then you should have an absolutely even number of turns from centre to left lock and centre to right lock. If there is any difference at all then perhaps the thing has been put back together wrongly, either the steering wheel put on one spline (or more!) off, and the alignment bodged to straighteb the wheel, or the opposite where something silly was done underneath and the wheel put back on crooked to compensate. Nut there isn't actually much evidence that you have such a problem anyway. It is something you can easily measure and test for to find out though. My money is still on the HICAS CU not driving the PS solenoid with the proper PWM signal required to lighten the load at lower speed. If it were me, I would be putting either a multimeter or oscilloscope onto the solenoid terminals and taking it for a drive, looking for the voltage to change. The PWM signal is 0v, 12V, 0V, 12v with ...obviously...modulated pulse width. You should see that as an average voltage somewhere between 0V and 12V, and it should vary with speed. An handheld oscilloscope would be the better tool for this, because they are definitely good enough but there's no telling if any cheap shit multimeter that people have lying around are good enough. You can also directly interfere with the solenoid. If you wire up a little voltage divider with variable resistor on it, and hook the PS solenoid direct to 12V through that, you can manually adjust the voltage to the solenoid and you should be able to make it go ligheter and heavier. If you cannot, then the problem is either the solenoid itself dead, or your description of the steering being "tight" (which I have just been assuming you mean "heavy") could be that you have a mechanical problem in the steering and there is heaps of resistance to movement.
    • MissMintyR33
      R33 persistent issues. P/steering and lag/misfire

      By MissMintyR33 · Posted

      Little update  I have shimmed the solenoid on the rack today following Keep it Reets video on YouTube. However my steering is still tight. I have this showing on Nisscan, my steering angle sensor was the closest to 0 degrees (I could get it to 0 degrees by small little tweaks, but the angle was way off centre? I can't figure this out for the life of me. I get no faults through Nisscan. 
×
×
  • Create New...