Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My sequential box is turning up in the next week or so (in theory) and I need to sort out a diff ratio.

A friend of mine races IPRA and has just completed the R200V (350Z) diff swap into his S14, it was a pain in the ass and I'm not willing to go to that much effort so this is not an option.

I was going through his pile of left over ring and pinions and he's got a 3.53 for a normal R200 (not R200V with larger pinion diameter) which will do for the short term, I hate going to Sandown anyway so I don't need 300kph. Yes, I've worked out the gear speeds.

He doesn't know what the ratio is out of but I'm assuming it's from a R32 RB20E car or perhaps an R33 RB25DE car. Does anyone know if there is any difference with these lower ratio diffs and the crown wheel offsets or ID's? I want to buy a Nismo GT Pro but unsurprisingly they don't have a listing for these two diff's because the cars are taxi's.

Edited by Komdotkom

There is no (thickness) difference that I know of. 4.08, 4.11, 4.36, should all have the same offset. The main differences that concern people are the size of teeth. The 4.08 and 4.36 have more teeth, therefore they are thinner and weaker than the 4.11.

The other surprise is (sometimes) the bolt hole size. There are 2 sizes, and sometimes they are different where you'd expect them to be the same.

3.53 is not from any R chassis car. There were absolutely none with that tall a rear end. The slower, weaker cars all had >4:1 gearing.

https://www.eatsleepboost.lt/tech-info/nissan-tech-info/nissan-r200-diff-ratios/


All nissan r200 diff info

EDIT: We should copy & paste all the info and make a sticky @PranK

Edited by robbo_rb180
  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
2 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

3.53 is not from any R chassis car. There were absolutely none with that tall a rear end. The slower, weaker cars all had >4:1 gearing.

According to the link posted above, it's from an R32 and that's what Amayama list it for.

It's a pity that the R200V is a paint to fit, would have been a nice simple upgrade. I'll head back around to his place after the IPRA nationals and dig through his stuff and do some measurements against a 4.375 that I've got.

3 minutes ago, Komdotkom said:

According to the link posted above, it's from an R32 and that's what Amayama list it for.

R32 – RB25DE – auto – 3.538

I refuse to believe that. Having said that - probably none of these were ever imported (owing to lack of desirability), so..... maybe they did make them. Would have to be rare as hen's teeth. Maybe no more than 1000 such examples in Japan?

4 minutes ago, Komdotkom said:

It's a pity that the R200V is a paint to fit,

Be careful describing the 350Z diff as an R200V. The stock LSD in almost all of the R chassis cars is also correctly described as R200V. And.....any viscous LSD is not an upgrade, unless you're starting from an open diff and don't have high expectations for LSD performance. Yeah, yeah, I know that people say that the 350Z VLSD is good....I say that they hadn't gotten old enough to suck as much as the R chassis VLSDs all suck, when those opinions were formed.

Oh, I thought that R200V was the correct nomenclature for the later diffs.

I just want a better range of low ratios and not have to pay the R/S chassis tax. It would be nice if the 350Z CV driveshafts fit, but one side is too long.

use what ever centre you want and get Brock at Leeson Engineering to weld the 6 bolt/gtr/Z flange on them. Also 300zx TT shafts same as Gtr/Z and r230 is 31 spline so same as some 33 gtr with r200.

Also Neat Gearbox do new harder gears, yes they are expensive but better than going through a heap of used 30 year gears.  What IPRA car has the Z diff upgrade? did they use the gktech bushes or mod the sub frame?

 

I'm trying to use as many factory parts as possible to avoid having to wait for custom made spares, so ideally I'll cobble together something which uses a mix of factory parts. I'll probably end up with Z32 shafts and just get a Nismo centre which comes with 6 bolt output shafts.

The IPRA car in question is an S14. It uses GK subframe bushes and rear cover but reports from the owner are that this was a pain to install and he wouldn't do it again. He's running GTR six bolt shafts. Due to restrictor and the subsequent rpm limit he's running 3.1 gears, car has a Holinger with 1:1 top.

18 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

R32 – RB25DE – auto – 3.538

I refuse to believe that. Having said that - probably none of these were ever imported (owing to lack of desirability), so..... maybe they did make them. Would have to be rare as hen's teeth. Maybe no more than 1000 such examples in Japan?

Be careful describing the 350Z diff as an R200V. The stock LSD in almost all of the R chassis cars is also correctly described as R200V. And.....any viscous LSD is not an upgrade, unless you're starting from an open diff and don't have high expectations for LSD performance. Yeah, yeah, I know that people say that the 350Z VLSD is good....I say that they hadn't gotten old enough to suck as much as the R chassis VLSDs all suck, when those opinions were formed.

Usually the RE5 auto cars had the 3.5 

  • 6 months later...

So the 3.5 had just a bit too much rust pitting on it, so I've gone with a 3.69 which appears to be from an S15.

I stupidly purchased a Nismo GT Pro for an R32 GTR so that I could use some 6x1 shafts (to hold the massive RB20 torque) but now it appears that the taller ratios have a smaller pinion and hence a different offset of the crown wheel and LSD. This has resulted in the gears and LSD being fine, but the side flanges don't fit. One side is 8mm too long, the other is too short and the circlip grooves are totally wrong. Any suggestions to make this work would be appreciated. I can't find much info on the side flange dimensions, the ones supplied with my diff are 38220-05U01, 148mm overall length.

  • 1 month later...

Thanks for saving me time and money, i was looking to do a 3.5X swap as well without switching to a 350Z diff. Luckily for me i stumbled across this thread before deciding on anything. 

is the centre for sale a 1.5 or 2 way?

I was under the impression that the 350Z diff was 'easy' (ish)

I had planned to get a Quaife center in one if/when my current R34 helical gives up the ghost.

How much pain am I actually in for trying to do this?

5 hours ago, joshuaho96 said:

There is a 3.545 from the R34 GTR. Not sure anyone should actually use it but hey.

If you run a 6spd CD009 or an R34 box you should. Only good time to do so though. 

On 2/9/2024 at 10:34 PM, Kinkstaah said:

I was under the impression that the 350Z diff was 'easy' (ish)

I had planned to get a Quaife center in one if/when my current R34 helical gives up the ghost.

How much pain am I actually in for trying to do this?

Subframe conversion bushes, maybe tailshaft change depending if you had ABS tailshaft or not, possibly having to clearance around the knuckle to fit 350Z/GTR driveshafts. It doable but something i was looking to avoid as i have an S13 subframe.

22 hours ago, TurboTapin said:

If you run a 6spd CD009 or an R34 box you should. Only good time to do so though. 

I have a CD009 in my S13 drift car with a 4.36 and it's a little silly but sure makes 250kw feel fast haha

  • Like 1
1 hour ago, iruvyouskyrine said:

Subframe conversion bushes, maybe tailshaft change depending if you had ABS tailshaft or not, possibly having to clearance around the knuckle to fit 350Z/GTR driveshafts. It doable but something i was looking to avoid as i have an S13 subframe.

I have a CD009 in my S13 drift car with a 4.36 and it's a little silly but sure makes 250kw feel fast haha

I also originally had my CD009 paired up with a 4.36, but the constant shifting from 1-4 gear within the first 60km's got old fast. I switched it out for a 3.3. I've actually only put 50km's on that diff as it had issues and is back at my diff assembler but it feels much nicer. 

Edited by TurboTapin
On 2/9/2024 at 9:34 PM, Kinkstaah said:

I was under the impression that the 350Z diff was 'easy' (ish)

I had planned to get a Quaife center in one if/when my current R34 helical gives up the ghost.

How much pain am I actually in for trying to do this?

Depends how low your car is? A mate had issue's with axel to hub angle and broke a few axel's before cutting sub frame and lifting the diff up so all the angles were good

 

Ahhh nah, my car is very high (relatively speaking), just has a non HICAS Subframe from a R34 (or S15, you know, it's all shared).

I was under the impression I needed axles, the diff itself and subframe bushes and everything is entirely the same. Will obviously do more urgent research once "Ah f**k I've f**ked my diff, shit" happens, which may be never...  I'm sure it's more complicated due to the fact I have a custom tailshaft already, but if you don't NEED a new tailshaft going to a 350z diff (i.e the OEM one bolts up and the dimensions are the same) then, woohoo, I guess.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, I can recommend the partial AV system translation CD I ordered from Car Audio Workshop in NZ. Whilst it didn't address the date issue, it has conveniently translated on-screen menu items into English, and now allows the GPS-received time to be offset in hours rather than minutes, so I can display Eastern Australian time accurately ( and bump it by another hour when daylight savings starts ).
    • Yuh, if it's 45°C outside, my car is driving in it.
    • I'd be curious to hear more. Otherwise, have you driven a modern x-trail? I wonder how it compares. Here in Australia they are/were popular for rentals and fleet vehicles. I have been in some and my impression was they are bad. But, this may have been very different in the 2000s at a good trim level. Twenty years is plenty of time to make the model worse. I do very much agree with the 2 silver cars in the garage approach. But, not driving because it's too hot would not leave a lot of time in the year for many Australians. I don't think you need to worry too much unless the car has actual issues with overheating. 
    • Back again. I returned to Japan in Jul/Aug to spend time with the car on my birthday and remind myself what all the sacrifice and compromise is for. It happened to line up with the monthly morning meet in Okutama, which I have been wanting to go to for a long time. It's a unique event at a unique spot with really rare, interesting, and quirky cars. It's where all the oldheads and OGs gather. The nighttime scene at DKF certainly has its place and should be experienced if you're into cars, but there's too much bad attention and negativity around it now. IMO the better time is Sunday morning at DKF or Okutama; it's more chill and relaxed. I'm glad I was finally able to go, but not sure it's worth the drive from all the way from Nagoya immediately the day before, unless I was already staying in Tokyo for the days right before the meet, because you have to wake up quite early to make it in time. Funnily enough though I didn't drive the car all that much this trip because it was just too damn hot. While there were zero issues and running temps were nominal and the A/C was strong, RBs already run crazy hot as it is. Sure, it took it all like a champ but something about driving these cars in the ridiculous heat/humidity bothers me and makes me feel like I'm asking too much of it. I'm just me being weird and treating the car like a living thing with feelings; I'm mechanically sympathetic to a fault. Instead I was mainly driving something else around - a KX4(silver) 2001 X-Trail GT, that I acquired in May. There's a few different flavors to choose from with Xs, but visually it's the Nissan version of the Honda CR-V. Mechanically it's a whole different story as this, being the top-trim GT, has an SR20VET mated to a four-speed auto and full-time AWD! It was a very affordable buy in exceptional condition inside and out, with very low mileage...only 48k kms. Most likely it was owned by an older person who kept it garaged and well-maintained, so I'm really happy with how it all worked out. It literally needs zero attention at the moment, albeit except for some minor visual touch-ups. I wanted something quirky, interesting, and practical and for sure it handily delivers on all three of those aspects. I was immediately able to utilize the cargo and passenger capacity to its full extent. It's a lot of fun to drive and is quite punchy through 1st and 2nd. It's very unassuming -in the twisty bits it's a lot more composed than one would think at a glance- and it'll be even better once I get better tires on it(yes, it's an SUV but still a little boat-y for my liking). So...now I have two golden-era Nissans in silver. One sports car and one that does everything else; the perfect two-car solution I think👍 The rest of the trip...I was able to turn my stressed brain off and enjoy it, although I didn't quite get to do as much as I thought. I did some interesting things, met some interesting people, and happened into some interesting situations however, that's all for another post though only if people really want to know. Project-wise, I went back to Mine's again to discuss more plans and am hoping to wrap that up real soon; keep watching this space if that interests you. Additionally, while working in the tormenting sweatbox that is the warehouse, I was able to organize most of the myriad of parts that my friend is storing for me along with the cars, and the 34 has a nice little spot carved out for it: And since it can get so stupid hot in there, that made it all the more easy -after I was standing there looking at the car and said 'f**k it'- to finally remove all the damn gauges that have mostly been an eyesore all this time. Huzzah. The heat basically makes the adhesive backing on the gauge mounts more pliable to work with, so it was far less stressful getting this done. I didn't fully clean it up or chase the wiring though; that will happen once I have the car in closer possession. Another major reason to remove all that stuff is to give people less reasons to get in my car and steal s**t while it's being exported/imported when/if the time comes, which leads us to my next point... ...and that is even though it's time in Japan is technically almost up since it's a November car and the X would be coming in March, I'm still not entirely sure where my life and career is headed; I don't really know what the future looks like and where I'm going to end up. I feel there's a great deal of uncertainty with me and as a result of that, it feels like I'm at a crossroads moreso now than any point in my life thus far and there are some choices I need to make. Yes, I've had some years to consider things and prepare myself, however too much has happened in that time to maintain confidence and everything feels so up in the air; tenuous one might say. Simply put, there's just too much nonsense going on right now from multiple vectors. Admittedly, I'm struggling to stay in the game and keep my eyes on the prize. So much so in fact, that very recently I came the closest I ever have before to calling it quits outright; selling everything and moving on and not looking back. The astute among you will pick up on key subtext within this paragraph. In the meantime I've still managed to slowly acquire some final bits for the car, but it feels nice knowing there's not much left to get and I'm almost across that finish line; I have almost everything I'll ever want for my interpretation and expression on what it is I think an R34 should be. 'til later.
    • Thanks for that, hadn’t used my brain enough to think about that. 
×
×
  • Create New...