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My sequential box is turning up in the next week or so (in theory) and I need to sort out a diff ratio.

A friend of mine races IPRA and has just completed the R200V (350Z) diff swap into his S14, it was a pain in the ass and I'm not willing to go to that much effort so this is not an option.

I was going through his pile of left over ring and pinions and he's got a 3.53 for a normal R200 (not R200V with larger pinion diameter) which will do for the short term, I hate going to Sandown anyway so I don't need 300kph. Yes, I've worked out the gear speeds.

He doesn't know what the ratio is out of but I'm assuming it's from a R32 RB20E car or perhaps an R33 RB25DE car. Does anyone know if there is any difference with these lower ratio diffs and the crown wheel offsets or ID's? I want to buy a Nismo GT Pro but unsurprisingly they don't have a listing for these two diff's because the cars are taxi's.

Edited by Komdotkom

There is no (thickness) difference that I know of. 4.08, 4.11, 4.36, should all have the same offset. The main differences that concern people are the size of teeth. The 4.08 and 4.36 have more teeth, therefore they are thinner and weaker than the 4.11.

The other surprise is (sometimes) the bolt hole size. There are 2 sizes, and sometimes they are different where you'd expect them to be the same.

3.53 is not from any R chassis car. There were absolutely none with that tall a rear end. The slower, weaker cars all had >4:1 gearing.

https://www.eatsleepboost.lt/tech-info/nissan-tech-info/nissan-r200-diff-ratios/


All nissan r200 diff info

EDIT: We should copy & paste all the info and make a sticky @PranK

Edited by robbo_rb180
  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
2 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

3.53 is not from any R chassis car. There were absolutely none with that tall a rear end. The slower, weaker cars all had >4:1 gearing.

According to the link posted above, it's from an R32 and that's what Amayama list it for.

It's a pity that the R200V is a paint to fit, would have been a nice simple upgrade. I'll head back around to his place after the IPRA nationals and dig through his stuff and do some measurements against a 4.375 that I've got.

3 minutes ago, Komdotkom said:

According to the link posted above, it's from an R32 and that's what Amayama list it for.

R32 – RB25DE – auto – 3.538

I refuse to believe that. Having said that - probably none of these were ever imported (owing to lack of desirability), so..... maybe they did make them. Would have to be rare as hen's teeth. Maybe no more than 1000 such examples in Japan?

4 minutes ago, Komdotkom said:

It's a pity that the R200V is a paint to fit,

Be careful describing the 350Z diff as an R200V. The stock LSD in almost all of the R chassis cars is also correctly described as R200V. And.....any viscous LSD is not an upgrade, unless you're starting from an open diff and don't have high expectations for LSD performance. Yeah, yeah, I know that people say that the 350Z VLSD is good....I say that they hadn't gotten old enough to suck as much as the R chassis VLSDs all suck, when those opinions were formed.

Oh, I thought that R200V was the correct nomenclature for the later diffs.

I just want a better range of low ratios and not have to pay the R/S chassis tax. It would be nice if the 350Z CV driveshafts fit, but one side is too long.

use what ever centre you want and get Brock at Leeson Engineering to weld the 6 bolt/gtr/Z flange on them. Also 300zx TT shafts same as Gtr/Z and r230 is 31 spline so same as some 33 gtr with r200.

Also Neat Gearbox do new harder gears, yes they are expensive but better than going through a heap of used 30 year gears.  What IPRA car has the Z diff upgrade? did they use the gktech bushes or mod the sub frame?

 

I'm trying to use as many factory parts as possible to avoid having to wait for custom made spares, so ideally I'll cobble together something which uses a mix of factory parts. I'll probably end up with Z32 shafts and just get a Nismo centre which comes with 6 bolt output shafts.

The IPRA car in question is an S14. It uses GK subframe bushes and rear cover but reports from the owner are that this was a pain to install and he wouldn't do it again. He's running GTR six bolt shafts. Due to restrictor and the subsequent rpm limit he's running 3.1 gears, car has a Holinger with 1:1 top.

18 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

R32 – RB25DE – auto – 3.538

I refuse to believe that. Having said that - probably none of these were ever imported (owing to lack of desirability), so..... maybe they did make them. Would have to be rare as hen's teeth. Maybe no more than 1000 such examples in Japan?

Be careful describing the 350Z diff as an R200V. The stock LSD in almost all of the R chassis cars is also correctly described as R200V. And.....any viscous LSD is not an upgrade, unless you're starting from an open diff and don't have high expectations for LSD performance. Yeah, yeah, I know that people say that the 350Z VLSD is good....I say that they hadn't gotten old enough to suck as much as the R chassis VLSDs all suck, when those opinions were formed.

Usually the RE5 auto cars had the 3.5 

  • 6 months later...

So the 3.5 had just a bit too much rust pitting on it, so I've gone with a 3.69 which appears to be from an S15.

I stupidly purchased a Nismo GT Pro for an R32 GTR so that I could use some 6x1 shafts (to hold the massive RB20 torque) but now it appears that the taller ratios have a smaller pinion and hence a different offset of the crown wheel and LSD. This has resulted in the gears and LSD being fine, but the side flanges don't fit. One side is 8mm too long, the other is too short and the circlip grooves are totally wrong. Any suggestions to make this work would be appreciated. I can't find much info on the side flange dimensions, the ones supplied with my diff are 38220-05U01, 148mm overall length.

  • 1 month later...

Thanks for saving me time and money, i was looking to do a 3.5X swap as well without switching to a 350Z diff. Luckily for me i stumbled across this thread before deciding on anything. 

is the centre for sale a 1.5 or 2 way?

I was under the impression that the 350Z diff was 'easy' (ish)

I had planned to get a Quaife center in one if/when my current R34 helical gives up the ghost.

How much pain am I actually in for trying to do this?

5 hours ago, joshuaho96 said:

There is a 3.545 from the R34 GTR. Not sure anyone should actually use it but hey.

If you run a 6spd CD009 or an R34 box you should. Only good time to do so though. 

On 2/9/2024 at 10:34 PM, Kinkstaah said:

I was under the impression that the 350Z diff was 'easy' (ish)

I had planned to get a Quaife center in one if/when my current R34 helical gives up the ghost.

How much pain am I actually in for trying to do this?

Subframe conversion bushes, maybe tailshaft change depending if you had ABS tailshaft or not, possibly having to clearance around the knuckle to fit 350Z/GTR driveshafts. It doable but something i was looking to avoid as i have an S13 subframe.

22 hours ago, TurboTapin said:

If you run a 6spd CD009 or an R34 box you should. Only good time to do so though. 

I have a CD009 in my S13 drift car with a 4.36 and it's a little silly but sure makes 250kw feel fast haha

  • Like 1
1 hour ago, iruvyouskyrine said:

Subframe conversion bushes, maybe tailshaft change depending if you had ABS tailshaft or not, possibly having to clearance around the knuckle to fit 350Z/GTR driveshafts. It doable but something i was looking to avoid as i have an S13 subframe.

I have a CD009 in my S13 drift car with a 4.36 and it's a little silly but sure makes 250kw feel fast haha

I also originally had my CD009 paired up with a 4.36, but the constant shifting from 1-4 gear within the first 60km's got old fast. I switched it out for a 3.3. I've actually only put 50km's on that diff as it had issues and is back at my diff assembler but it feels much nicer. 

Edited by TurboTapin
On 2/9/2024 at 9:34 PM, Kinkstaah said:

I was under the impression that the 350Z diff was 'easy' (ish)

I had planned to get a Quaife center in one if/when my current R34 helical gives up the ghost.

How much pain am I actually in for trying to do this?

Depends how low your car is? A mate had issue's with axel to hub angle and broke a few axel's before cutting sub frame and lifting the diff up so all the angles were good

 

Ahhh nah, my car is very high (relatively speaking), just has a non HICAS Subframe from a R34 (or S15, you know, it's all shared).

I was under the impression I needed axles, the diff itself and subframe bushes and everything is entirely the same. Will obviously do more urgent research once "Ah f**k I've f**ked my diff, shit" happens, which may be never...  I'm sure it's more complicated due to the fact I have a custom tailshaft already, but if you don't NEED a new tailshaft going to a 350z diff (i.e the OEM one bolts up and the dimensions are the same) then, woohoo, I guess.

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