R33 GTR Rebuild + Upgrading

[oSkylines]

Hey guys,

 

I know this style of thread has likely been made something like a million different times, but I have spent a large handful of hours  on multiple different forums , and I am creating this one to try and gather all of my information in one place to hopefully help me put myself in a good situation once the engine comes out where I can take care of as much as I can in one swipe. My apologies for those of you who are tired of these threads in advance, but at the risk of cluttering the threads with another one of these, if it keeps me from spending thousands of dollars in improper places, its worth the risk .  My goal for this vehicle is APPROX 450-500WHP, but it is not a particular hard goal, at the end of the day everybody likes those clean numbers, but what is important to me is a streetable reliable car  with  good torque for spirited street driving. This may see Minor track time, as it was recently brought to my attention there is a local track, but there will not be  any track racing , just may want to get the lead foot urges out of my system once and a while. This vehicle will be running only pump gas, no race gas or E85. Presently Intending on staying twin turbo.

 

Small recap of current state of vehicle

1995 Nissan Skyline GTR presently running the following

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Haltech 2500 ECU with CAN wideband O2 setup

ARC intake ( i understand this isnt a particular " upgrade" as the stock is fine from what I've gathered, but its a pretty sweet part, so i had to jump at the chance) 

R35 "Nissan GTR" coil conversion

Kakimoto test pipe and racing exhaust ( i believe  it is the Kakimoto Racing GT1.0Z)

Compression around 140s on all cylinders

Haltech 3 port Boost control Solenoid

Haltech air temp sensor ( required to be upgraded for use of haltech 2500 system)

New fuel filter ( not really relevant, but it was replaced so I'm putting it here so it doesn't get suggested, unless It is necessary for some reason even though it has less than an oil change worth of time on it) 

Timing chain changed at 86000km , engine currently sitting at approx 160k Km (intent to change when engine is out) 

Upgraded GKTech  Engine fan  ( stock has significant cracks in it, would prefer not to have a grenade in my engine bay, just ordered so not in yet)

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While doing the little work we have done to this point, I have noticed a few things about the vehicle. The previous owner looks like he must have been in the engine bay at one point or another and did a poor job at making sure everything was back where it should be. When it was first purchased, I experienced some misfires under boost, and wrote it off to needing the coils replaced, or the ignitor or something of the like going bad. Whilst going over it, and trying to get some stuff sorted on the tuning end I had located several boost leaks or lines not connected,  as well as the ground on the ignitor ( which has since been bypassed due to the coil conversion upgrade ) , was disconnected. The fuel pressure regulator vacuum line was disconnected, and a handful of lines had been dry rotted/ needed replaced. 

 

While the car seems to be in pretty good shape by way of minimal rust or obvious concerns at first glance, the little work we have already done has proven to me that it would be unwise to put any significant work into it without doing my due diligence in having the engine refreshed and all of the lines reviewed/ replaced as necessary. The last thing I want to do is put a significant amount of money into this vehicle for performance mods and have something fail catastrophically due to basic maintenance neglect.

 

These findings have lead me to where I am presently. My intents at this time are to try and get as many " big things" done with the engine out as I can , while also giving the engine a proper once over, giving it a fresh set of gaskets, some new head studs, etc.  I will add a list of parts below that I presently have picked out, many of which coming from a build list I had created somewhere around 6-7 years ago when I purchased the vehicle ( but prior to its legalization in the US , so prices and availability may have changed---(in fact I've found a large amount of parts I previously had picked out are no longer listed/ available on many websites, which is partially the reasoning for this thread)

I will the list of parts with what I am presently having issues finding/ need help with choosing, Then start with parts that I have found with links and prices. Any input on if it is overkill, not enough, or if things are being double purchased is welcome, as I dont want to have a significant amount of leftover parts when I am completed . Money , as is usually is the case, is a factor, but there are some things i do want  with significant cost that I realize I do not need, but have included it because I know that I want them, and would prefer to buy them and have them installed while the engine is out instead of having to go through this process again in the near future.

 

All Prices listed with parts are in USD, and do not include shipping, which depending on location of sourcing may cause relevant price increase. Some prices may have changed since previously notating when original list was made)

 

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Turbos- This is a big question mark for me at the moment. Previously I had spoken with Geoff from Full race, and was considering to trying out the twin efr6258  kit that Full race had previously had on their site. Looking back at that parts list, that kid had been upwards of 6.5k USD, so it was a bit expensive, and  over the years it appears this kit is nowhere to be found. Previously I had been looking at Garret -5s , but during our discussion , it appeared that the BW EFR 6258 setup was superior to it. Feel Free to suggest anything that will land me in around my power goals with the rest of the setup.

Supertec Spline drive Oil Pump- Over on the GTR UK forums, this seems to be a very highly suggested kit, and at the time was quoted around $700 USD from member FRRacer, who seemed to be , at least at the time, a very active and knowledgeable member.  Upon viewing their websites, It seems they have been out of stock for a while, and am unsure if they are still in circulation. Oil pump, as I'm sure everybody who has taken a few minutes to research is aware, is a common point of failure with the RB , so I am def looking into SOMETHING here, but am not sure just how much is necessary. I know some of the higher capacity pumps can have issues with not returning oil quick enough, requiring an upgraded sump/ baffle. I'm not totally opposed to this if it is necessary, but obviously if it isn't necessary for street driving/ my power goals, It would be nice to avoid the extra money in fab work/ parts. Let me know just how far into this rabbit hole I need to go. 

HKS Step 0 2.8 stroker kit- I know this isn't necessary, but it is one thing I would very much like to do, and as such, need to make sure the rest of the build lines up appropriatly.
https://www.nengun.com/hks/stroker-kit-nissan-rb26dett-28l-step-zero
$3817

 

Valves/Springs- Its my assumption these should be replaced as they are likely the OEM ones, nearly 30  years old. I've read just a new set of stock ones are sufficient with Poncams, but i would like any advise/ links to what would be suggested to facilitate budgeting. Unsure if  the existence of a stroker kit will change requirements here.

Supertech valvesprings/retainers

https://rawbrokerage.com/collections/rb26dett-valvetrain/products/supertech-single-valve-spring-kit-70-lbs-rb26dett

($595)

 

 

Fuel Rail- Is it necessary to upgrade from stock fuel rail?  I've seen one from Tomei for something around the 400 USD mark, which would allow for the addition of a fuel pressure sensor, as I don't believe the stock fuel rail has a place to install one, but if it isn't needed, I'm not opposed to skipping over this. 

 

Fuel pump- Previously when discussing the potential for e85, The Walbro 416lph fuel pump from full race was suggested, I have since strayed from E85, but I still like Walbro's price significantly more than the " big brands" like tomei and the like, sitting at over 600usd. The kit Geoff had suggested, again is no longer on their website, but i did find a 400lph one on there, and it is still significantly cheaper. Link posted below, any issues with running this ? There was also some posts regarding orientation of stock pump being at a 45 degree angle, where a lot of aftermarkets will mount at a 90 degree angle, preventing reach to bottom of fuel tank. Feel Free to offer experience/advice here.

https://www.full-race.com/walbro-400-lph-universal-in-tank-fuel-pump

($125)

Fuel Pressure regulator- In the same vein  as the above two, if upgrading fuel system, I am assuming a fuel pressure regulator upgrade would be prudent. The following kit was the fist one I ran across. If not necessary, feel free to advise. This appears to also address the need for a place to tap in a fuel pressure gauge, which may or may not help with answering the need of an uprated fuel rail.

https://www.enjukuracing.com/products/aeromotive-fuel-pressure-regulator-kit-for-nissan-ka-sr-rb.html

($319)

 

1000CC fuel injectors ( should be enough, is this cc overkill? seems like most sets of 6 are in this price range anyway)
https://rawbrokerage.com/products/deatschwerks-injectors-1000cc-rb26dett?_pos=1&_sid=67fa5c736&_ss=r
($569.00)

 

Rb26 OEM timing belt- self explanatory, Its out so might as well replace it

https://rawbrokerage.com/collections/rb26dett-timing-belts/products/nissan-oem-rb20-rb25-rb26-timing-belt

($70)

RB26 Full Rebuild Gasket set

https://www.enjukuracing.com/products/oem-nissan-rb26dett-full-engine-rebuild-gasket-kit.html

($470)

 

Greddy Oil filter relocation + Cooler set ( necessary at power goals? , obviously not a bad thing to have, but if not needed, can skip)

https://www.rhdjapan.com/trust-greddy-oil-cooler-filter-relocation-kit-10-row-bcnr33.html

($598)

 

Water Pump- I see this on nearly every rebuild suggestion, I believe i do still have stock ( nearly 30 year old) Water pump, though its not showing any signs of issues with temp control. I'm going to assume this is prudent to change, but let me know if it isn't as big of a deal as it seems to have made out to be)  Likely going to stay stock, as high revs isn't particularly something I intend to be doing often, stock seems to be documented fine at these power goals. Also, what is up with the wild price differences in stock pumps?  These OEM pumps seem to be anywhere between 400 usd, to under 200? 

If purchased, likely looking at the following for a direct OEM replacment.

https://store.sp-power.com/products/nissan-oem-water-pump-replacement-rb25-and-rb26

($115)

 

Koyo Race Radiator
http://www.rawbrokerage.com/koyo-race-radiator-for-nissan-skyline-gtr-r33/
($375 +19shipping)

Arc Intercooler ( unnecessary probably, def cheaper options available, but it just looks too nice...) 

https://www.rhdjapan.com/arc-brazing-intercooler-smic-m073-bcnr33.html
($1036.76)

 ats carbon clutch  - Some have suggested nismo clutch, but was advised around 500whp they are unable to properly be utilized.  

https://www.nengun.com/ats/carbon-clutch
($1822.64)

ARP Head Stud Kit 
https://rawbrokerage.com/products/arp-202-4207-head-stud-kit-rb26dett
($299.00)

Tomie Poncam 260 type B 
https://www.nengun.com/tomei/poncam-camshafts
($466.38)

Tomei Adjustable cam gears  (intake and exhaust)
https://www.hioctanedirect.com/tomei-adjustable-cam-gear-nissan-rb20-rb25-rb26
($307.76)

Tomei Oil Galley Orifice Restrictor for RB26- ( Operating under the assumption i only need to buy one of these. I understand their use, but not the install process)
https://rawbrokerage.com/products/tomei-oil-galley-orifice-restrictor-rb20-rb25-rb26-rb30
($6.30)
 

Tomei Dump pipes - If the BW kit was available, was said to eliminate the need for these, but until i hear something new from fullrace, assuming that an alternative kit will probably need something along  these lines, let me know if its unnecessary, as it is an expensive enough part... 

https://justjap.com/products/tomei-full-cast-turbo-outlet-dump-pipe-set-fits-skyline-r32-r33-r34-gtr-c34-stagea-260rs-rb26dett?currency=USD

($857)

Mines Stainless downpipes
https://www.nengun.com/mines/front-pipe-pro
($574)

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This concluded my list of parts I have come up with at the moment. The total , without accounting for shipping, which could still increase price significantly, as well as labor, machine work, etc, ending up around $13500 , obviously also excluding the cost of the need for fresh fluids / oil , etc, as well as excluding the cost of turbos  in its entirety.  As I am not made of money, Ill likely have to split this up into Must have with engine out, and tolerable to do with engine in, but with any luck, and some insight from you guys, I may be able to  remove some things from the list, or replace with different options. 

 

I understand that this was quite the lengthy post, and I appreciate those of you who took the time to review it, and thank in advance those of you who contribute into helping me build a vehicle I am truly proud to own.  Looking forward to your insight.  I will attach the list of parts in a text document  if anybody would like to review it in a different format, or make changes to it for me to consider. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

2023 updated skyline build document.txt

[Duncan]

I can see why you have done a lot of planning if you bought the car 7 years before you were allowed to import it!

So, for 330-375kw (I assume you mean at the wheels) you don't have to do a lot to a standard engine, and the stroker is definitely not required (noting, if you want it and can afford it, go for it, it's your car!)

The big decision to make up front is if you are staying twin or converting to single. Single will give you a simpler setup and better performance with a modern turbo, but of course it looks very different in the engine bay. -5s will get you in that ballpark and while they are not terrible, the do have noticeable lag (check the rb26 dyno thread for examples). There are probably more modern twin options but make sure they include all inlet and outlet pipes unless you are a gun fabricator because it is very tight.

Keep in mind that parts are probably 30-50% of the cost to have them in and working if you are not doing all the mechanical work yourself.

I would suggest taking this on in 3 parts:

1. do a major service including the timing belt kit, water pump and change the timing belt tensioner and idler studs. Also change all the fluids, including coolant, power steering, brake and clutch. Everything is up to 30 years old after all and sounds like it has been sitting for a while. Also, replace the fuel pump with a larger drop in like walbro 525 or clone including running a new 12v wire from the battery and new fuel pump relay. And, as you noticed...check or replace every vacuum line, there are diagrams for how they should be run around here. Run it up on a dyno at high boost and a few mid range spots to make sure everything is safe. Pushing an unknown car hard before you do these is brave.

2. Engine rebuild - suggest you pull engine and rebuild it with forged pistons and rods, nitto oil pump, head and main studs, medium sized cams, proper head gasket all new bearings, rings, seals etc. Then you have a good, safe base to work from. The other alternative is you don't do this, blow it up, and have to find hard to source parts to replace your broken ones

3. Turbo setup - change across the turbos, oil/water lines, intake and exhaust to suit (full exhaust). Set boost and tune.

2 and 3 can be easier to do at the same time if budget allows, but if not fresh engine with whatever turbos and tune you have is safe.

[oSkylines]

My intent is to pull the engine and do a full rebuild. As  such, parts of this build are listed to include this. I am aware this is just a portion of what overall will cost , as labor and machining are needed, which is why I’m trying to make a cumulative list of parts with prices so that I can ascertain what should get completed once the engine comes out. Ideally I would like to do gaskets, stroker, and turbos in one go , as staying with twins would make turbos difficult to swap out, and the stroker kit obviously would require the engine removal as well.  With that, there are obviously bare minimum requirements that would need to be met to make this operable , aside from a tune, the fuel system immediately comes to mind. Things like the inter cooler can likely be pushed off a little further , the upper exhaust piping again being something likely something best done with engine out , as well as clutch. As you can see just with those few things I’m facing several thousands up front , even if I didn’t do the stroker .  The things I’m looking for  at the moment are essentially reviewing if the choices I made are acceptable parts , if they are obviously under or over kill for 500whp  , etc , as well if there are things I need that I am clearly missing , for example I’ve seen mention of bearings , rings , seals, but am unsure what is all covered under the stroker kit . It obviously comes with the crank, and forged pistons , but the exactly what all that I may not have accounted for is my big concern at the moment . 

[GTSBoy]

2 hours ago, oSkylines said:

Upgraded GKTech  Engine fan  ( stock has significant cracks in it, would prefer not to have a grenade in my engine bay, just ordered so not in yet)

If you live somewhere hot, do not do this. Stock fan only. You can buy them. The GKTech fan does not seem to work well with RB engined cars. Was designed for SRs. Is not an "upgrade" anyway. Is for dorifto flatbrims.

[oSkylines]

Northeast US, in PA, so rarely a “tropical” style of heat present . Doubtful I’ll have those issues 

Edited September 3, 2023 by oSkylines

[r32-25t]

Ok fit gktech fan and when it keeps getting hot please post back here saying “you were right” thanks in advance 

[GTSBoy]

Yeah, PA might be the horrible frozen shithole of Hoth in the winter, but it still gets up near 40 in the summer. You'd need to be well north of there before I'd say "not hot".

[oSkylines]

Lol, I mean if it gets hot, I’ll def change it. Unfortunately it’s already been ordered, I don’t have the luxury of canceling it at the moment.  I’m not saying it’s sufficient , especially as parts get put on. But I imagine even for a few weeks it’s better to have it on for the drive to work than something that looks like it’s about to explode at any moment with the size of the cracks in my current stock one. 

[oSkylines]

1 hour ago, r32-25t said:

Ok fit gktech fan and when it keeps getting hot please post back here saying “you were right” thanks in advance 

 

50 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

Yeah, PA might be the horrible frozen shithole of Hoth in the winter, but it still gets up near 40 in the summer. You'd need to be well north of there before I'd say "not hot".

I’ll reach out and see if I can cancel it , but it was long enough ago that the order was placed im likely stuck with it . I’m not going to die on the hill that it has to be used though, I only saw it suggested once or twice and saw it before I found a good OEM fan . Upon this warning , I actually did find and order a stock OEM replacement fan today. 

Edited September 3, 2023 by oSkylines

[UWISSH!]

While the engine is out, it would be best advised to upgrade the front diff while the engine is out.

I would suggest that u also fit a larger sump at this point.

you want to do all that you possibly can to the engine while it’s out to avoid having to pull it out again to do things u missed.

there will also be heaps of small little things that will add up in price like gaskets and hoses that u won’t really think of until the engine is out and start re assembly 

[Piggaz]

3 hours ago, UWISSH! said:

While the engine is out, it would be best advised to upgrade the front diff while the engine is out.

I would suggest that u also fit a larger sump at this point.

you want to do all that you possibly can to the engine while it’s out to avoid having to pull it out again to do things u missed.

there will also be heaps of small little things that will add up in price like gaskets and hoses that u won’t really think of until the engine is out and start re assembly 

No GTR engine should be allowed back in its hole without a front diff upgrade… hands down, the best mod you can do, just infront of putting the twins in the dumpster.

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

You mean best mod for any RB is a larger sump.

I would be doing 1st, building a RB and putting that motor back into the car with the original ice cream container sump is asking for the motor to come out.

[oSkylines]

7 hours ago, UWISSH! said:

While the engine is out, it would be best advised to upgrade the front diff while the engine is out.

I would suggest that u also fit a larger sump at this point.

you want to do all that you possibly can to the engine while it’s out to avoid having to pull it out again to do things u missed.

there will also be heaps of small little things that will add up in price like gaskets and hoses that u won’t really think of until the engine is out and start re assembly 

First I’ve heard anything about the front diff. I’m aware and fully expecting the hoses, hopefully the gaskets are included in the “full engine rebuild gasket kit” I gave listed in the parts . 
 

sump I figured was one I’d end up needing to do. Sump and baffle is something you see on every build list, I just need to find out what one I actually need and what kits are good out there . 
 

if I was to worry about the front diff , what exactly am i looking to change here ? Generally looking up front dif upgrades for skyline basically only showed me a bunch of links for Greddy front dif covers and a forum post where some guys were arguing saying it’s not necessary . But as for a actual part/kit of some sort , or at least an explanation of why it’s a good idea, I really haven’t seen anything to help make that decision

[oSkylines]

So looking at the upgraded sumps, and then presumably an uprated oil pump, the two  sumps I'm between are  RIPS , and the Trust extended sumps.  Links below. I know RIPS has a good reputation around here, and from what I gathered, they are standup people, and quite competent . Trust / Greddy seem to be the most common that I have encountered on the different forums.  It is worth noting, I have a driveway of shale, which can cause clearance issues at times depending on how beat up the weather makes it. I Have seen at least one case of the TRUST sump having  issues with getting the bolt ripped out from a pothole, though I believe this was a slightly lowered vehicle that I noted the post from. 

 

At the moment I'm leaning RIPS , but would like to get feedback from anybody with experience 

[oSkylines]

17 minutes ago, oSkylines said:

So looking at the upgraded sumps, and then presumably an uprated oil pump, the two  sumps I'm between are  RIPS , and the Trust extended sumps.  Links below. I know RIPS has a good reputation around here, and from what I gathered, they are standup people, and quite competent . Trust / Greddy seem to be the most common that I have encountered on the different forums.  It is worth noting, I have a driveway of shale, which can cause clearance issues at times depending on how beat up the weather makes it. I Have seen at least one case of the TRUST sump having  issues with getting the bolt ripped out from a pothole, though I believe this was a slightly lowered vehicle that I noted the post from. 

 

At the moment I'm leaning RIPS , but would like to get feedback from anybody with experience 

As for the oil pump, I am looking at the Nitto Sine drove oil pump with crank collar , totaling around 1200 bucks

[joshuaho96]

Don't buy those DW 1000cc injectors, they look like EV1s. Get the Bosch 040 980cc injectors instead, EV14s are readily available and dramatically better. You do not need an aftermarket fuel rail for the kind of power you're talking about, but if you intend on running a 400 lph pump at full speed without using something to slow it down then you will need a big FPR like the Aeromotive you listed.

If you're doing the timing belt you should always do the water pump as well. Those two go together. Not as mandatory as it is on a BMW or Porsche where the pump will explode the second you get past 75k miles but you still don't want to play the odds. 

[oSkylines]

Also, is there any information regarding the following Single turbo conversion kit? If I understand correctly, this kit would eliminate the need for the dump pipes, downpipe, meet my power requirement, and free up some engine bay space . That being said, while I have stumbled across some vids on YouTube and such of these kits existing, I have yet to hear any reviews regarding them, or really see any forum posts referencing them. 

https://www.spectrummotorsportssolutions.com/products/copy-of-gt-r-rb26-single-turbocharger-kit?variant=42509135642802

 

Looking at the SR61 with Vband top mount, no recirc 

should be sufficient for power goals from what i have gathered, and if I am right about the removal of some of the other parts on the list exhaust wise, it effectively reduces cost by like 1400 dollars with the removal of the tomei dump pipes and mines downpipe from the list. 

[oSkylines]

7 minutes ago, joshuaho96 said:

Don't buy those DW 1000cc injectors, they look like EV1s. Get the Bosch 040 980cc injectors instead, EV14s are readily available and dramatically better. You do not need an aftermarket fuel rail for the kind of power you're talking about, but if you intend on running a 400 lph pump at full speed without using something to slow it down then you will need a big FPR like the Aeromotive you listed.

If you're doing the timing belt you should always do the water pump as well. Those two go together. Not as mandatory as it is on a BMW or Porsche where the pump will explode the second you get past 75k miles but you still don't want to play the odds. 

I appreciate the insight there, Ill take a look at the bosch ones and put them on the list, unless somebody else has a sufficient reason for me not to

 

added these to my personal list in place of the dw1000s

https://www.speedingparts.com/p/fuelsystem-an-fittings/fuel-system/injectors/injectors-1588/bosch-injector-980cc.html

Edited September 3, 2023 by oSkylines
update with link

[joshuaho96]

8 minutes ago, oSkylines said:

I appreciate the insight there, Ill take a look at the bosch ones and put them on the list, unless somebody else has a sufficient reason for me not to

 

added these to my personal list in place of the dw1000s

https://www.speedingparts.com/p/fuelsystem-an-fittings/fuel-system/injectors/injectors-1588/bosch-injector-980cc.html

Keep in mind the factory rail is 10.5mm, you need adapters like this: https://www.efisolutions.com.au/bosch-980cc-1100cc-fuel-injector-kit-x6-rb26-gtr-r

or this:

https://www.nzefi.com/product/nissan-rb-1000ccmin-top-feed-direct-fit-fuel-injector-kit/

[oSkylines]

9 minutes ago, joshuaho96 said:

Keep in mind the factory rail is 10.5mm, you need adapters like this: https://www.efisolutions.com.au/bosch-980cc-1100cc-fuel-injector-kit-x6-rb26-gtr-r

or this:

https://www.nzefi.com/product/nissan-rb-1000ccmin-top-feed-direct-fit-fuel-injector-kit/

aye theres the rub. From 420 up to 810 usd with the ballast resistor delete, which i assume is what it means when it says that they are high impedance and need the removal of the resistor pack in the first link. So it looks like nzefi is the way to go , if the option for the ballast resistor delete is bundled in. Would've likely missed that without you pointing that out. Thank you very much.