Jump to content
SAU Community

Running semi slicks in the rain bad idea?

silviaz

By silviaz,
in General Automotive Discussion

 Share

Recommended Posts

niZmO_Man Grand Master

niZmO_Man

Posted
Posted

If you're doing 100% street driving, then look at Michelin PS5 (or even PS4S). There's also Goodyear's new tyres Asymmetric 6, which are excellent and on par with PS5.

https://www.tyrereviews.com/Tyre-Tests/Results-Grid/2023-Tyre-Reviews-Performance-Tyre-Test.htm

If you're doing track days, then look at Hankook RS-4, Advan AD08/AD09, etc.

If you're drifting, then it would be worth getting another set of wheels with above street tyres, and keep your current Valino set for drift days.

  • Like 1
Predator1 Rising Star

Predator1

Posted
Posted
On 27/10/2023 at 6:01 PM, silviaz said:

Hey all, I noticed on my car in the rain when I drive and if I give it a little bit of acceleration, the back end will start to kick out. Makes it dangerous as I can't merge onto an intersection safely, and if I give it too much gas my car will probably spin out. I know being rear wheel drive does affect things but was wondering how much of a difference semi slicks make compared to regular tyres? The research I did was mixed, saying semi slicks are more for drifting but the rep for the company said they can be used for both. I've also had a wheel alignment recently, and my tyres are near new. 

Wait, you drive yours in the rain?!

silviaz Experienced

silviaz

Posted
  • Author
Posted
2 hours ago, Predator1 said:

Wait, you drive yours in the rain?!

Not intentionally, but it has rained during the day and I had to drive back home and it has been pissing down a few times. The amount of times my back end started kicking out just from taking off from a traffic light is a bit scary lol.

GoHashiriya Community Regular

GoHashiriya

Posted
Posted (edited)

Valino are pretty popular out here in Japan, they make tyres for high-grip applications (front-end on drift cars and for time attack cars) and long-life drift tires with varying levels of grip. I was going to go for a set (drift pair) but the drift tyres had a little too much grip for stock power (and my skill level). 

EDIT: Greeva is a drift tyre though so ditch that for regular driving or drive with the expectation you could be sideways at any moment. 

I have been using the Nankang NS2Rs (TW120) and Accelera 651S (TW180) for grip driving, drift fronts and regular driving - I rarely/never drive in the rain. These have been good to me.   

Edited by GoHashiriya
additional info
  • Like 1
Kinkstaah Grand Master

Kinkstaah

Posted
Posted

Pilot Sport 5's is a really solid road tyre. They get a bit overdone for hardcore track work, but given where this thread started it's definitely gone in the right direction!!

  • Like 1
silviaz Experienced

silviaz

Posted
  • Author
Posted
1 hour ago, Kinkstaah said:

Pilot Sport 5's is a really solid road tyre. They get a bit overdone for hardcore track work, but given where this thread started it's definitely gone in the right direction!!

Yup, it's nice to be able to press on the gas and not almost spin out every time lol.

The Bogan Grand Master

The Bogan

Posted
Posted
On 12/11/2023 at 11:59 PM, silviaz said:

Yup, it's nice to be able to press on the gas and not almost spin out every time lol.

http://www.racetcs.com/

I can go full throttle in any conditions, rain hail or shine, minimal wheel slip for maximum acceleration 

Honestly, fitting RaceTCS was the best modification to my supercharged LS1

I wish I had RaceTCS fitted in my old R33 25/30

It really is a game changer, and IMO the best value for money aftermarket traction control on the market

And yes, you can turn it off, you can also have 6 different settings, everything from basically 0% slip, too mad controlled skids that do not require pedaling 

My settings are based around getting the quickest 0-100kph time, so far on street tyres it has been a 3.96 sec 0-100kph on 255/40 17 RS4's

You can set it for 0-100kph straight line runs like mine, or circuit racing in the wet or dry

6 settings of variable control, and off for mad skids

You do need ABS though to control it, if you don't, you can do it aftermarket for a minimal outlay

  • Like 1
The Bogan Grand Master

The Bogan

Posted
Posted
8 hours ago, Kinkstaah said:

Finally, my prophecy is paying off.

(also this does apply to other TC systems as well)

I should have acted on your suggestions ages ago

Thanks for that

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Wazmond
      WGNC34 Rear springs

      By Wazmond · Posted

      Try looking at Eibacb/H&R springs Thats what Gary sourced for mine.
    • AdiR34
      Fender flare widths across front/back of car

      By AdiR34 · Posted

      Hey y'all! I'm curious about how y'all go about widebodying your cars. I noticed that when running a square setup, my front wheels are a bit more tucked in than my rear wheels. Not by much, maybe 5-10mm. This leads me to wonder - when I widebody, should I use narrower front flares and wider rear flares? I found a set of 40mm rear flares that I really like, and was thinking of pairing them with some 18mm front flares, but I don't want the car to look strange. How have others done this? Note, I'm in a sedan. Thanks!
    • GTSBoy
      Stagea Front CV Axle Question

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      And if it was anything other than an auto tranny part, it might be a problem. But seeing as all auto trannies belong in the recycling bin, it's fine.
    • GTSBoy
      Stock rb25det neo questions

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I have an R32 Fenix rad. It is good.
    • dbm7
      Stock rb25det neo questions

      By dbm7 · Posted

      All the schemas I can see, indicate your typical setup of ATF 'cooler' (read: heat exchanger) in the bottom radiator tank..ie; https://nissan.epc-data.com/stagea/wgnc34/5413-rb25det/engine/214/ ...but I can prattle on a bit here. These trannies have a thermistor in the sump ~ the TCU reads this and 1. bumps the line pressure up when the ATF is 'cold' and 2. prevents the TC lockup clutch from operating, until the ATF comes up to minimum operating temp (keeps the ATF 'churning' through the TC so it heats up quicker) -- trigger point is around 55C. In these conditions, the engine coolant temperature rises faster than the ATF temperature, and also helps heat the ATF up, which is why it's best to think of the in radiator tank setup as a heat exchanger ; the heat can flow in both directions... ...with these trannies, the 'hot' ATF comes out the front banjo bolt, flows through the cooler/heat exchanger, and returns to the box  via the rear banjo bolt. This gets a mention, due to the wildly different opinions wrt running auto trans fluid coolers ~ do you bypass the in radiator tank altogether, or put the cooler inline with the in radiator tank system...and then, do you put the additional cooler before of after the in radiator tank system?... ....fact is the nominal engine operating temp (roughly 75C), happens to be the ideal temperature for the ATF used in these trannies as well (no surprises there), so for the in radiator tank system to actually 'cool' the ATF, the ATF temp has to be hotter than that...lets say 100C -- you've got 25C of 'excess' heat, (slowly) pumping into the 75C coolant. This part of the equation changes drastically, when you've got 100C ATF flowing through an air cooled radiator ; you can move a lot more excess heat, faster ~ it is possible to cool the ATF 'too much' as it were...(climate matters a lot)... ...in an 'ideal' setup, what you're really trying to control here, is flash heating of the ATF, primarily produced by the TC interface. In a perfect world, wrt auto trans oil cooling, you want a dedicated trans cooler with builtin thermostatic valving - they exist. These should be run inline and before the in radiator tank system ~ when 'cold' the valving bypasses the fin stack, allowing the ATF to flow direct to the in radiator tank heat exchanger, so it works 'as intended' with helping heat the ATF up. When 'hot' (iirc it was 50C threshold), the valving shuts forcing the ATF through the cooler fin stack, and onto the in radiator tank heat exchanger...and you sort of think of it as a 'thermal conditioner' of sorts...ie; if you did cool your ATF down to 65C, the coolant will add a little heat, otherwise it works as intended... ...the 'hot' ATF coming from the front bango bolt, is instantiated from the TC when in use, so all/any flash heated oil, flows to the fluid-to-air cooler first, and because of the greater heat differential, you can get rid of this heat fast. Just how big (BTU/h) this cooler needs to be to effectively dissipate this TC flash heat, is the charm...too many variables to discuss here, but I just wanted to point out the nitty-gritty of automatic trans fluid coolers ~ they're a different beastie to what most ppl think of when considering an 'oil cooler'... /3.5cents   
×
×
  • Create New...