Jump to content
SAU Community

R34 GTT Turbo Upgrade - Direct Bolt On (almost)


Recommended Posts

Despite what Tao says, the OP6 highflow will indeed run only 10 psi if you really need it to. Mine is doing that right now (well, actually, it's doing nothing right now because my pinion bearing sounds like a broken end mill) because I haven't got a dyno (it also broke) to do the necessary after upgrading AFM and injectors. So I'm just pedalling it around on low boost right now. It is fine. I do suspect that it is in the wrong part of the comp map and making hot air and can only hope that it all gets a lot better once I can push it up to 18 psi or so. I suspect this because it pings like a motherf**ker if I turn it up to ~12 psi. Hence I suspect that it is hot. (I also have suspicions about my fuel pump going soft at the top end, for which I would also really like the dyno to be back in action!!).

Anyway, point being, you could put a highflow on without tuning it. Not ideal (for a completely stock tune) because it would be bitchingly rich and retarded. Mine was tuned to provide about 190 rwkW on the stock turbo at 12ish psi, so it's perfectly safe so long as I don't let it ping. It did so for a little bit immediately after I put the car back together until I realised why the check engine light was coming on! (Like, on the first drive!). Running it on the dyno would have been better, perhaps.

In case it is not obvious, I only have the low pressure actuator on this turbo and will want to swap it for a 14 psi or so one when I can.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

14 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

Despite what Tao says, the OP6 highflow will indeed run only 10 psi if you really need it to. Mine is doing that right now (well, actually, it's doing nothing right now because my pinion bearing sounds like a broken end mill) because I haven't got a dyno (it also broke) to do the necessary after upgrading AFM and injectors. So I'm just pedalling it around on low boost right now. It is fine. I do suspect that it is in the wrong part of the comp map and making hot air and can only hope that it all gets a lot better once I can push it up to 18 psi or so. I suspect this because it pings like a motherf**ker if I turn it up to ~12 psi. Hence I suspect that it is hot. (I also have suspicions about my fuel pump going soft at the top end, for which I would also really like the dyno to be back in action!!).

Anyway, point being, you could put a highflow on without tuning it. Not ideal (for a completely stock tune) because it would be bitchingly rich and retarded. Mine was tuned to provide about 190 rwkW on the stock turbo at 12ish psi, so it's perfectly safe so long as I don't let it ping. It did so for a little bit immediately after I put the car back together until I realised why the check engine light was coming on! (Like, on the first drive!). Running it on the dyno would have been better, perhaps.

In case it is not obvious, I only have the low pressure actuator on this turbo and will want to swap it for a 14 psi or so one when I can.

Yup, from my understanding, every time I install a mod such as injectors, turbo, intake plenum, it needs a tune updated every time unless I put all the parts on at once and do 1 tune then. I've got an aftermarket ecu and has been tuned already but as you mentioned the highflow would need a tune. 

What is that ping that you're referring to, do you mean detonation and if so, does it make the same sound as when a knock sensor goes faulty and makes a "ping" type of sound? I used to have that sound on my other car until after I finally replaced the sensor after years lol.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Pinging is detonation, yes. It sounds like a bunch of angry little men with hammers beating away on the inside of the engine.

Pinging doesn't happen just because the knock sensor dies though. All that will happen in that circumstance is that if the engine does ping (and it shouldn't) then it will keep pinging because the ECU can't hear it. My check engine light was coming on because that's what the ECU does when (amongst other things, of course) it hears too much pinging and tosses all its toys out of the crib.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This morning I carefully reinstalled the manifold and started looking at a couple of things I need to do.  Heat wrap arrived sometime today so I popped into the shed with the missus dishwashing gloves and started wrapping the first half of the dump and the screamer/plumb back.  Once I do the second half I'll be able to final fit the turbo and exhaust up.  Also pulled the harness out today and started terminating it at the ECU end. A connector is done, just need to run the remaining wires that arent in the harness - 12v, gnd and couple I/O
    • A31 is pretty much the same thing without HiAIDS I mean CAS, no improvement lol. Not to late to send it.
    • Thanks for all the replies! I also wanted to ask if wheels that were fitted on Ford Falcons would fit the 350GTs as well? In the area I'm at there aren't that many options for secondhand wheels and new ones here are way out of my budget. From what I've seen, most of the wheels that are available that were fitted on Ford Falcons have an offset of +33 to +36, with a centre bore of 70.5mm whereas the stock 350GT's ones are 66mm, can't seem to find any hubcentric rings that fit that difference though. 
    • 215/45/18 tyres are probably a little on the low side compared to the factory tyre, it should be closer to a 245/45/19, which will get you about an extra 11mm of height, and should make you speedo read a bit closer to reality. 245/45/19s will be a bit too far the other way and you risk a speeding ticket as your speedo might read slower than your actual speed.  245/40/19s would be correct if you are going to 19in rims, they will give you a similar total diameter to the 245/45/18 tyres.  
    • That's something I forgot to put in my list. The aggressive anti-squat in R32 is a f**king menace. I still need to decide if I'm going to drag the subframe out of my car and weld in the GKTech corrector kit. The main reason to dither is the need to switch to spherical joints in the lower arm to account for the twist induced in the rear pivot caused by lowering the front pivot. And yes...we do put better subframes in R32s, and I wish I'd gotten an S14 one instead of an A31 when I did the "take off and nuke it from orbit" HICAS delete all those years ago.
×
×
  • Create New...