R34 GTT Turbo Upgrade - Direct Bolt On (almost)

[LjB123]

2 minutes ago, hypergear said:

The one on car above is .63 which is also more responsive 

Thanks. What situation would i need to get a manifold spacer with it?

[hypergear]

5 minutes ago, LjB123 said:

Thanks. What situation would i need to get a manifold spacer with it?

Spacer is only required for T51R modded housings.

[LjB123]

Just now, hypergear said:

Spacer is only required for T51R modded housings.

Thanks

[hypergear]

1 hour ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

I'm assuming you're asking about my current turbo? 

It's a Garrett GTX3576R Gen 2 with a 1.01 divided turbine housing. Made 437kW with 1.8 tapering down to 1.6bar.

The latest UHF55mm have out performed G30 turbine extremely well on my Rb2530det using a T3 .82 rear housing carring a G30-900 compressor wheel. It will be alot more responsive in comparison to a GT35 turbine in 1.01 rear while making about the same power. This turbine wheel and rear housing is currently out of the test car, I can swap them into your current turbo for some feedbacks if interested. PM for details.

Edited March 2 by hypergear

[R3N3]

The NZ build mentioned above is mine.the ATR43ss2 is a weapon if you’re after 300ish kw on 98. I have seen so many good results from @hypergear over the years, and Taos input to these forums and general support to the members was the key reason I chose hypergear.

At those power levels there is no need for a new manifold. No spacer was needed to install the unit. I chose for the external wastegate plumb-back version, which has the exhaust housing modified for an external wastegate to be fitted.

i made a conservative 311kw and am hoping for over 360kw once I get motivated and modify the fuel system for ethanol.

[admS15]

On 02/03/2024 at 9:14 PM, Kinkstaah said:

Surely nowadays a G series can be done in a very-nearly-bolt-on-in-stock-location on a RB25 on a stock manifold etc.

Surely.

I have not really looked into it for reasons

I hear a pair of them works well on LS engines... 

[LjB123]

19 hours ago, R3N3 said:

The NZ build mentioned above is mine.the ATR43ss2 is a weapon if you’re after 300ish kw on 98. I have seen so many good results from @hypergear over the years, and Taos input to these forums and general support to the members was the key reason I chose hypergear.

At those power levels there is no need for a new manifold. No spacer was needed to install the unit. I chose for the external wastegate plumb-back version, which has the exhaust housing modified for an external wastegate to be fitted.

i made a conservative 311kw and am hoping for over 360kw once I get motivated and modify the fuel system for ethanol.

What made you got .63 instead of .71 housing? Just response? Couldnt you push a little more power from a .71 with lower PSI?

[R3N3]

39 minutes ago, LjB123 said:

What made you got .63 instead of .71 housing? Just response? Couldnt you push a little more power from a .71 with lower PSI?

I just asked TAO and he recommended .63..

I’d recommend sticking to .63 if you want a similar power figure and the best possible response. I’m running a completely un-opened motor too, so I could push harder if I wanted but I asked the tuner for some reliability, which is why we limited boost.

I’m no turbo expert, so I’ll let @hypergear answer that but I’m assuming the trade off for the slightly bigger housing would be response. I’m assuming they may be for a slightly larger displacement engine?

Put it this way, if I were to do it again I’d go the .63 again.

Edited March 3 by R3N3

[LjB123]

1 hour ago, R3N3 said:

I just asked TAO and he recommended .63..

I’d recommend sticking to .63 if you want a similar power figure and the best possible response. I’m running a completely un-opened motor too, so I could push harder if I wanted but I asked the tuner for some reliability, which is why we limited boost.

I’m no turbo expert, so I’ll let @hypergear answer that but I’m assuming the trade off for the slightly bigger housing would be response. I’m assuming they may be for a slightly larger displacement engine?

Put it this way, if I were to do it again I’d go the .63 again.

I have upgraded cams (tomei poncam type B) and valve springs + retainers so might change the response i get from a .71 housing

 

i was going to go with the external wastegate plumb back kit which bolts right up to a JJR Front pipe, currently have a JJR full dump pipe but a front pope is only $150 to get new, and can sell my dump for $100 or something, less cop attention the better and i reckon i will get over the noise of a screamer pipe after a bit haha

[GTSBoy]

20 minutes ago, LjB123 said:

I have upgraded cams (tomei poncam type B) and valve springs + retainers so might change the response i get from a .71 housing

Yeah. For the worse. Bigger cams do not make things happen earlier. They move the power curve to the right. Not what you're looking for.

[silviaz]

I was wondering. It looks like for r34 gtt oem turbos there are no rebuild kits, so you would either have to get an aftermarket turbo or secondhand oem one. Are there any turbos that have the EXACT same specs as the oem one so when installed, the car doesn't need to be tuned or it doesn't work like that?

[Duncan]

Turbo shop can rebuild it to factory for you, although you could get a better/upgraded one at the same time at the same cost.

Turbo rebuild is not really DIY, you need a high speed balancer

[GTSBoy]

There is no "rebuild" of the standard core, with its ceramic turbine. Any "rebuild" is actually a "recore". The original Hitachi BB core is actually quite large (ie long). The distance between the comp housing and the turbine housing is large.

I got an OP6 highflow from Tao. The BB core he uses is tiny by comparison. The turbine housing sits in the same spot (it has to, because it is bolted to the exhaust manifold, and so that and the dump are all in the same place. But the comp housing moves backwards in the engine bay because of the shorter centre section, and so you need to mod your inlet pipe (by any of a number of different methods) and the water and oil hoses need some changes too.

[silviaz]

2 hours ago, Duncan said:

Turbo shop can rebuild it to factory for you, although you could get a better/upgraded one at the same time at the same cost.

Turbo rebuild is not really DIY, you need a high speed balancer

Ah right, I do remember hearing a while back about that balancing thing that you just mentioned. I assumed I could rebuild it and then just get the shop to balance it (until i realised there's no rebuild kit). My turbo is fine but I am running higher boost I believe so just incase the time comes the reason I'd rather rebuild it, is to save at least $1,000 on tuning it, especially as I'm not trying to make huge power.

Edited March 4 by silviaz

[silviaz]

36 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

There is no "rebuild" of the standard core, with its ceramic turbine. Any "rebuild" is actually a "recore". The original Hitachi BB core is actually quite large (ie long). The distance between the comp housing and the turbine housing is large.

I got an OP6 highflow from Tao. The BB core he uses is tiny by comparison. The turbine housing sits in the same spot (it has to, because it is bolted to the exhaust manifold, and so that and the dump are all in the same place. But the comp housing moves backwards in the engine bay because of the shorter centre section, and so you need to mod your inlet pipe (by any of a number of different methods) and the water and oil hoses need some changes too.

This goes over my head haha. Can you change the ceramic turbine to a steel one for better reliability?

Edited March 4 by silviaz

[GTSBoy]

1 hour ago, silviaz said:

This goes over my head haha. Can you change the ceramic turbine to a steel one for better reliability?

Yes, but not really stock for stock, and not without changing anything else. If you are going to pay someone to put all that work into a turbo, you would be mentally deranged to do it at the stock performance level. Insane.

Even a highflow is relatively poor value compared to the new turbos that Tao offers.

[silviaz]

46 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

Yes, but not really stock for stock, and not without changing anything else. If you are going to pay someone to put all that work into a turbo, you would be mentally deranged to do it at the stock performance level. Insane.

Even a highflow is relatively poor value compared to the new turbos that Tao offers.

With the high flow were you referring to something like this? https://hypergearturbos.com/product/rb25dethighflow/

 

If so, I just saw their turbo on ebay the highflowed one and it runs at a minimum 15 psi, as opposed to stock which I believe is 7 psi. Sounds like I'd need a tune either way?

Edited March 4 by silviaz

[UWISSH!]

42 minutes ago, silviaz said:

With the high flow were you referring to something like this? https://hypergearturbos.com/product/rb25dethighflow/

 

If so, I just saw their turbo on ebay the highflowed one and it runs at a minimum 15 psi, as opposed to stock which I believe is 7 psi. Sounds like I'd need a tune either way?

Why are you so against getting your car tuned? Surely you would want it to run better than factory?

[silviaz]

14 minutes ago, UWISSH! said:

Why are you so against getting your car tuned? Surely you would want it to run better than factory?

Not against it, but it's already tuned and it's more about not spending an extra $1k if I don't need to. If I have to then fair enough. 

Edited March 4 by silviaz

[hypergear]

We do offer a smaller G2 version of high flow that works with factory boost levels and tune. It will be maxing towards 250rwkws once tuned however. 

Also we build custom G / GTX style of bolt on turbos by request, the biggest that would work internally gated would be an G30-660, G25 turbines are too small for Rb25det motor.