Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi there,

Does anyone here have the carbonetics slam panel installed on their R34 GTT? Or used to have one and got some pics of how it sat?

https://carbonetics.net/products/1999-2002-nissan-skyline-r34-gtt-cooling-slam-panel?srsltid=AfmBOoo6Uz0nuxGI3qC0sn56KJI6PMgh0OvV-pbegsPDHTtTxz4IMljc

I’m just trying to get an idea of how they sit once installed but these guys have no pics. 
biggest question I’m trying to figure out is what the hell the 3 holes at the front of the panel are 😂 and where they bolt 

 

Thanks in advance 

Just walk away from the cooling panels. I've had one and it was a fancy carbon one from Japan (let alone a copy of one) and didn't actually line up with the GTT. Had cutouts and things. And probably more importantly, if you look closely at how your bonnet seals, there's a rubber strip on the underside of the bonnet that does the job you want this carbon panel to do.

 

  • Like 2
On 12/09/2024 at 10:43 PM, Milkmun said:

Weird the Gktech one doesn't have the 3 holes and is only a 5min install if you have the standard front bar.

@Milkmun Yeah I was looking at the Gktech one as well and just holds on with the 2 bolts at the middle and no front section that goes upwards. 
I've watched one of the Youtube installations of it and the only thing with that is that I'd need to drill a hole for the screw that holds the oil cooler in A/T.
 

@Kinkstaah It's purely just to make the bay look cleaner and not have a gaping hole at the front 🤣 I'm getting some bad mojo from this panel and have a feeling it only works in S1 (even though they never mention it)

@Kinkstaah So... I took your advice and looked under the bonnet... is this where the rubber strip should be?

🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣

image.thumb.png.9e5ca1dce3794b38f74bc3949c04d324.png

On 13/09/2024 at 9:56 AM, DraftySquash said:

@Milkmun Yeah I was looking at the Gktech one as well and just holds on with the 2 bolts at the middle and no front section that goes upwards. 
I've watched one of the Youtube installations of it and the only thing with that is that I'd need to drill a hole for the screw that holds the oil cooler in A/T

Would get the Gktech one then, it's 1 hole which would be straight forward to drill, plus it's a third of the price.span widget

Edited by Milkmun
Edit
On 13/09/2024 at 11:21 PM, GTSBoy said:

Look on the top of the radiator support panel. ie, look down from there.

oh whooops.. does that mean there  should be something clipped here? (bottom of image)

IMG_0239.jpeg

Yes, well, one or the other. On R32 (which is the only thing I can look at personally) it's on the rad support panel. You have neither, and it will need to be on one or the other. I must say that the arrangement of holes perhaps looks more like it lives on the bonnet underside on the R34. The rad support panel doesn't look like the R32 one at all.

A quick google shows....

image.thumb.png.535b292c1b445691313dad6b539fa1ff.png

20 hours ago, DraftySquash said:

@Kinkstaah So... I took your advice and looked under the bonnet... is this where the rubber strip should be?

🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣

image.thumb.png.9e5ca1dce3794b38f74bc3949c04d324.png

image.thumb.png.a20768b21e6247a89ce0a900440eedbd.png

That is what will seal with the bonnet closed. Follow it down while closing the bonnet to see where it ends up with the bonnet closed.

The panels don't do anything other than spending money, which this one will do just fine. :p

If you can get access to a guillo (or dremel), and a break press (I've used home made folders out of timber and a few hinges), and a dremel for notching, there is about $10 of alloy and some time involved with making one

I've made a few things like this, start with a cardboard template, measure twice, cut once

I typically then sand the edges, hit it with wax and grease remover, then wrinkle coat it, you can also add pinch weld to make it prettier 

As for fittings, plastic push clips work

Use the saved money to buy tools

Or, make a cardboard templates and get your local metal fabrication joint to knock it out

When I was a young lad I was a sheet metal worker, we had heaps of people walking into the shop with small templates people wanted transfered onto  steel or alloy, usually paid for in beer

>$300 = "Jebus"

On 13/09/2024 at 9:40 AM, Kinkstaah said:

Just walk away from the cooling panels. I've had one and it was a fancy carbon one from Japan (let alone a copy of one) and didn't actually line up with the GTT. Had cutouts and things. And probably more importantly, if you look closely at how your bonnet seals, there's a rubber strip on the underside of the bonnet that does the job you want this carbon panel to do.

 

welll...you'd think so, indeed I did for a long time, but - after making my own fibreglass one, and in fairness, also making up fibreglass side and bottom panels to seal the intercooler>body gaps, my coolant temps plummeted. Like, average 76 degrees, thermostat temp. When set up properly, for sure they work.

I added one, it made the car hotter.... :D

Mind you, that one looked great, did nothing so I sold it on. If you make actual good working ducts as above, it'll definitely work.

This isn't that though, out of the box :p

  • 4 weeks later...

Bit late....but the one on my stagea has additional holes too, it is for clearance of the bolt heads which hold the radiator latch upright to the radiator support (ie, they are not to locate the panel)

  • 3 months later...

@DraftySquash @Duncan

he's not talking about the part that sits against the radiator support, he’s talking about the lip that sits towards the front outside of the car.

anyway I had a look at other cooling panels and came across this one

https://justjap.com/products/carbing-radiator-cooling-panel-plate-nissan-skyline-r34-gt-t?variant=37829684134087&currency=AUD&utm_source=google&utm_medium=organic&utm_campaign=Advanced feed&utm_content=Carbing Radiator Cooling Panel Plate fits Nissan Skyline R34 GT-T (Coupe)&srsltid=AfmBOoonzPDKqe9NgKi5U0AkFc2XvbXETGmNWvfNcyBT5DUZagMYHg9DZ70

if you take notice it’s the same shape. 
well thankfully the justjap listing has a description and it says :

- Nissan Skyline R34 GT-T Coupe (M/T -07/2000)

this means it’s specifically for a s2. S2’s have different front bars to s1 so that lip with the 3 holes are *probably* mounting points for the s2 bar.

im not 100% sure but im almost certain it will still fit a s1 bar 

 

 

 

@DraftySquash @Duncan

i misspoke, or this might be the other way.

someone sent me a low res pic of it on

It might completely close off the gap in red like in the second pic (second pic has gktech cooling panel on) .The 3 holes are for the plastic rivets used to secure down the front bar. The outer holes on the radiator side go underneath the condenser brackets

If thats the case then there’s going to be no air going in through the grill between the bonnet and the bar for the radiator and condenser. Isn’t that bad? I mean less airflow to the radiator and condenser is all I’m saying

IMG_4593.jpeg

IMG_4592.jpeg

Edited by IM-32-FK
On 13/9/2024 at 9:40 AM, Kinkstaah said:

Just walk away from the cooling panels. I've had one and it was a fancy carbon one from Japan (let alone a copy of one) and didn't actually line up with the GTT. Had cutouts and things. And probably more importantly, if you look closely at how your bonnet seals, there's a rubber strip on the underside of the bonnet that does the job you want this carbon panel to do.

 

have a look at the other 2 stock rubber strips marked in blue. As you can see, they press against the cooling panel and leave marks. If the cooling unit panel isn’t there, the strip press against nothing therefore have no use. So Nissan was thinking ahead when they manufactured the cars, as they must’ve known people will install the panels in the future. Otherwise think about it, why else would they be there? Therefore that in itself directly infers that cooling panels do something.

It might be to stop water and stop some air from going above the cooling panel so more of the air can be redirected between the cooling panel and the front bar towards the condenser and radiator. I tried to take a pic of it while the bonnet was closed but u can’t see shit in the photo

IMG_4594.jpeg

IMG_4595.jpeg

Edited by IM-32-FK
  • Like 1
1 hour ago, IM-32-FK said:

So Nissan was thinking ahead when they manufactured the cars, as they must’ve known people will install the panels in the future. Otherwise think about it, why else would they be there?

Yes, at least 10 years before anyone ever thought of making such a panel. Of course.

18 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

Yes, at least 10 years before anyone ever thought of making such a panel. Of course.

What I’m saying is that I never heard of a non gtr 34 coming with a cooling panel stock or factory option. Maybe they might’ve I don’t know

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
    • So, what else.... Power. I don't know what it is making because I haven't done a post tune dyno run yet; I will when I get a chance. It was 240rwkw dead stock. Conclusion from the day....it does not need a single kw more until I sort some other stuff. It comes on so hard that I could hear the twin N1 turbos on the R32 crying, and I just can't use what it has around a tight track with the current setup. Brakes. They are perfect. Hit them hard all day and they never felt like having an issue; you can see in the video we were making ground on much lighter cars on better tyres under brakes. They are standard (red sport) calipers, standard size discs in DBA5000 2 piece, Winmax pads and Motul RBF600 fluid, all from Matty at Racebrakes Sydney. Keeping in mind the car is more powerful than my R32 and weighs 1680, he clearly knows his shit. Suspension. This is one of the first areas I need to change. It has electronically controlled dampers from factory, but everything is just way too soft for track work even on the hardest setting (it is nice when hustling on country roads though). In particular it rolls into oversteer mid corner and pitches too much under hard braking so it becomes unstable eg in the turn 1 kink I need to brake early, turn through the kink then brake again so I don't pirouette like an AE86. I need to get some decent shocks with matched springs and sway bars ASAP, even if it is just a v1 setup until I work out a proper race/rally setup later. Tyres. I am running Yoko A052 in 235/45/18 all round, because that was what I could get in approximately the right height on wheels I had in the shed (Rays/Nismo 18x8 off the old Leaf actually!). As track tyres they are pretty poor; I note GTSBoy recently posted a porker comparo video including them where they were about the same as AD09.....that is nothing like a top line track tyre. I'll start getting that sorted but realistically I should get proper sized wheels first (likely 9.5 +38 front and 11 +55 at the rear, so a custom order, and I can't rotate them like the R32), then work out what the best tyre option is. BTW on that, Targa Tas had gone to road tyres instead of semi slicks now so that is a whole other world of choices to sort. Diff. This is the other thing that urgently needs to be addressed. It left massive 1s out of the fish hook all day, even when I was trying not too (you can also hear it reving on the video, and see the RPM rising too fast compared to speed in the data). It has an open diff that Infiniti optimistically called a B-LSD for "Brake Limited Slip Diff". It does good straight line standing start 11s but it is woeful on the track. Nismo seem to make a 2 way for it.
    • Also, I logged some data from the ECU for each session (mostly oil pressures and various temps, but also speed, revs etc, can't believe I forgot accelerator position). The Ecutek data loads nicely to datazap, I got good data from sessions 2, 3 and 4: https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-2?log=0&data=7 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-3?log=0&data=6 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-4?log=0&data=6 Each session is cut into 3 files but loaded together, you can change between them in the top left. As the test sessions are mostly about the car, not me, I basically start by checking the oil pressure (good, or at least consistent all day). These have an electrically controlled oil pump which targets 25psi(!) at low load and 50 at high. I'm running a much thicker oil than recommended by nissan (they said 0w20, I'm running 10w40) so its a little higher. The main thing is that it doesn't drop too far, eg in the long left hand fish hook, or under brakes so I know I'm not getting oil surge. Good start. Then Oil and Coolant temp, plus intercooler and intake temps, like this: Keeping in mind ambient was about 5o at session 2, I'd say the oil temp is good. The coolant temp as OK but a big worry for hot days (it was getting to 110 back in Feb when it was 35o) so I need to keep addressing that. The water to air intercooler is working totally backwards where we get 5o air in the intake, squish/warm it in the turbos (unknown temp) then run it through the intercoolers which are say 65o max in this case, then the result is 20o air into the engine......the day was too atypical to draw a conclusion on that I think, in the united states of freedom they do a lot of upsizing the intercooler and heat exchanger cores to get those temps down but they were OK this time. The other interesting (but not concerning) part for me was the turbo speed vs boost graph: I circled an example from the main straight. With the tune boost peaks at around 18psi but it deliberately drops to about 14psi at redline because the turbos are tiny - they choke at high revs and just create more heat than power if you run them hard all the way. But you can also see the turbo speed at the same time; it raises from about 180,000rpm to 210,000rpm which the boost falls....imagine the turbine speed if they held 18psi to redline. The wastegates are electrically controlled so there is a heap of logic about boost target, actual boost, delta etc etc but it all seems to work well
    • hahah when youtube subscribers are faster than my updates here. Yes some vid from the day is up, here:  Note that as with all track day videos it is boring watching after the bloopers at the start.  The off was a genuine surprise to me, I've literally done a thousand laps around the place and I've never had instability there; basically it rolled into oversteer, slipped, gripped and spat me out. On the way off I mowed down one of the instructor's cones and it sat there all day looking at me with accusing cone eyes as I drove past. 1:13:20 was my fastest lap, and it was in the second session, 3rd lap.  It (or me!) got slower throughout the day as it got hotter.      
×
×
  • Create New...