Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

12 minutes ago, soviet_merlin said:

I see some more modern setup being sold as an upgrade and I wonder whether it would make it drive like AC in a modern car. Where you don't really hear it or notice it.

Sadly, it won't happen. The AC controls in our cars are essentially on-off. Whereas the AC in new stuff is more a case of variable displacement compressors giving infinitely variable output.

  • Sad 1
1 hour ago, GTSBoy said:

Sadly, it won't happen. The AC controls in our cars are essentially on-off. Whereas the AC in new stuff is more a case of variable displacement compressors giving infinitely variable output.

Lots of this, and in older cars, AC is generally controlled by the AC knobs and programming, and the ECU reacts to the load.

Modern cars, the ECU controls kicking the AC on/off at the AC systems request so it can be prepared for the engagement/disengagement.

17 hours ago, soviet_merlin said:

I went and got the aircon regassed in the Stagea today and asked the guy about the upgrade to the Toyota Echo compressor. He was saying it is likely not going to be as good. It is newer but smaller and not going to pump as strongly. And it would be better to try and get a new OEM compressor. He was saying that the improvements people are seeing may be more likely due to regassing the system. I thought it was interesting to hear.

Going by the sticker the system in my car was last checked in 2015. Gas was at 50% which is apparently beyond terrible. Under 80% is where efficiency already falls apart.

Anyways, with fresh gas the AC is now bloody freezing. I think it may be working a bit less hard as well. I need to drive it a bit more to try it properly. Previously on hill starts it would utterly bog down the car. I'm hoping this is a bit better now.

The frenchies kit looks great, but $1400 for the compressor upgrade alone makes it a bit of commitment. Very much so compared to a $150 regas.

I was thinking the same thing when i saw the size of the smaller Toyota Compressor, but i'm not an AC expert. Where did you take it to get re-gassed? 

16 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

I don't know if anyone was seriously suggesting a retrofit of an Echo compressor in place of a more-or-less working original comp. You'd have to change the hoses at the bare minimum to do so, and that will definitely add significant cost. I had to get my hoses modded when I did the engine transplant and chose to use the Neo's AC over the even older R32 comp. That was startlingly more expensive than expected for what looks like a simple welding job, and a massive pain in the arse when it turned to have a pinhole leak in the weld too.

The Frenchie's kit is for people who have next to nothing of the original system or have more than that but some of it is a bit shit and better off thrown away than salvaged. If you've got 90% of the system, you just patch it up. Mine is currently degassed because it apparently has a big leak somewhere. If I find it is the compressor, I will be looking to take my spare comp to a shop to assess and/or recondition, rather than contemplating a retrofit to anything off-brand.

After reading this and a few other comments, i'm starting to realize something...

Since i got the car, the AC belt was never put on. I installed the belt on a few months ago because i was tired of melting in the hot car. Once i installed the belt, i was troubleshooting the AC and was turning the red switch on/off while driving the car to see if anything was happening. 

The engine was rebuilt by shop before i purchased the car and the shop might not have re-gassed the AC. Which means i was running the AC without any gas/refrigerant inside the compressor. The AC compressor now acts as if its seized up. I'm starting to think, i caused this damage. 

4 minutes ago, kevboost7 said:

Which means i was running the AC without any gas/refrigerant inside the compressor. The AC compressor now acts as if its seized up. I'm starting to think, i caused this damage. 

Yup. She's toast. You need refrigerant to carry the compressor oil to stop the thing from welding itself together.

  • Like 1
9 hours ago, kevboost7 said:

I was thinking the same thing when i saw the size of the smaller Toyota Compressor, but i'm not an AC expert. Where did you take it to get re-gassed? 

I have heard the frenchys kit (with the smaller toyota compressor) performs fantastic. i havent actually gassed my system yet, so cant confirm myself..

FWIW, I've always found Toyota A/Cs to be much colder than Nissan ones.

Even that 2024 Nissan X-Trail (that VW Australia lent to me), the A/C isn't as cold as other base model Toyota Corollas/Camrys, etc.

Maybe Toyota A/C compressors are superior? 

On 24/09/2024 at 7:49 AM, kevboost7 said:

Where did you take it to get re-gassed? 

I went to a local car aircon workshop: https://aceautoelectrical.com.au/

Took all of 30 minutes to get in, check, regas and leave again.

Might be a bit of a drive for you :D But I presume any shop specialising in aircon should do. And I guess they'd be able to confirm whether the compressor is stuffed or not.

15 hours ago, soviet_merlin said:

I went to a local car aircon workshop: https://aceautoelectrical.com.au/

Took all of 30 minutes to get in, check, regas and leave again.

Might be a bit of a drive for you :D But I presume any shop specialising in aircon should do. And I guess they'd be able to confirm whether the compressor is stuffed or not.

Thats the problem, this car in the states gets more attention than lamborghinis and ferarris. I have yet to take this car to any shop because i'm afraid they will take it for joyrides. I need to do an alignment but i've been holding off. 

On 9/23/2024 at 5:59 PM, GTSBoy said:

Yup. She's toast. You need refrigerant to carry the compressor oil to stop the thing from welding itself together.

f**k my life.. this whole time i thought the AC was just broken, but now realizing that i probably broke it myself is really hitting me

  • Like 1
7 hours ago, kevboost7 said:

Thats the problem, this car in the states gets more attention than lamborghinis and ferarris. I have yet to take this car to any shop because i'm afraid they will take it for joyrides. I need to do an alignment but i've been holding off. 

It sounds like by avoiding maintenance you may be doing more damage than a hypothetical guy in a workshop taking it for a spin.

Not sure if you are just being paranoid or things are actually that bad in the US. Find a reputable shop not run by dickheads. Look for people that take pride in their work. Stick around for the day if you have to :)

10 hours ago, kevboost7 said:

I need to do an alignment but i've been holding off. 

1 hour ago, soviet_merlin said:

Not sure if you are just being paranoid or things are actually that bad in the US. Find a reputable shop not run by dickheads.

Yes, well, wrt a wheel alignment, there are two types.

Either: You have very little added adjustables, in which case the alignment can be done by anyone in any tyre shop or equivalent, and will only take 30 minutes, and so there is no reason to even consider leaving the car there.

OR: The alignment is a major exercise because you have adjustables everywhere and so you will need to be taking it to a shop that is skilled and experienced at setting up race cars and the like, and you won't need to worry about leaving the car there.

On 26/09/2024 at 12:17 PM, GTSBoy said:

OR: The alignment is a major exercise because you have adjustables everywhere and so you will need to be taking it to a shop that is skilled and experienced at setting up race cars and the like, and you won't need to worry about leaving the car there.

100% this. Long ago, I had a guy from the R31 club who set my BNR32 up (adjustable arms all round). He did an awesome job, was an after-work kinda thing where I had to bring a slab of beer. My car never drove better, and I stupidly got a random tyre shop to check the toe angles when I changed tyres, and they ruined the alignment.

tl:dr- it takes a lot of skill to set up your car lowered from factory properly, and is worth paying the $200+ it takes.

  • 2 weeks later...
On 9/25/2024 at 8:26 PM, soviet_merlin said:

It sounds like by avoiding maintenance you may be doing more damage than a hypothetical guy in a workshop taking it for a spin.

Not sure if you are just being paranoid or things are actually that bad in the US. Find a reputable shop not run by dickheads. Look for people that take pride in their work. Stick around for the day if you have to :)

I'm a bit paranoid, but i've caught a normal car dealership in which i bought my truck (Ford F-150). I dropped it off in the morning and when i returned, i found the car had 100 more miles on it. I know that alignments don't take 100 miles. 

Depends on the dealership and staff working there.

Have personally worked at 2 dealerships and have know great mechanics and bad ones.

The biggest issue is a good mechanic can normally get paid more through a private workshop, so will take that over dealership jobs. But sometimes theyre happy where they are doing what they're doing.

Dealerships deal with current cars due to warranty scare tactics and prices, so anything aging gets harder to find people who know the product (staff turnover) 

AAAaaaaarrrrrrggggghhhhh!

Following on from OP's AC woes....mine got regassed last year and at some point I discovered it had lost enough gas to not switch on any more. It had dye in it, but we never saw any trace of dye, perhaps because it all fell out long enough before we looked that it washed away. (Or, shudder, it's under the dash in a hard to see/reach spot!). I almost never run the AC because I just drive with the windows down even when it's 40+ outside. Only occasionally want it when I just can't take the heat or if I need some defog.

So, got it gassed up again with more dye and oil so I could run it a bit to provoke the leak to show.

And the compressor is noisy.

So, now I am staring down the barrel of having to fit a rebuild kit to the compressor (or maybe the spare that is on the shelf).  And hope that the leak is at the comp, and not under the bloody dash.

On 10/21/2024 at 7:55 PM, GTSBoy said:

AAAaaaaarrrrrrggggghhhhh!

Following on from OP's AC woes....mine got regassed last year and at some point I discovered it had lost enough gas to not switch on any more. It had dye in it, but we never saw any trace of dye, perhaps because it all fell out long enough before we looked that it washed away. (Or, shudder, it's under the dash in a hard to see/reach spot!). I almost never run the AC because I just drive with the windows down even when it's 40+ outside. Only occasionally want it when I just can't take the heat or if I need some defog.

So, got it gassed up again with more dye and oil so I could run it a bit to provoke the leak to show.

And the compressor is noisy.

So, now I am staring down the barrel of having to fit a rebuild kit to the compressor (or maybe the spare that is on the shelf).  And hope that the leak is at the comp, and not under the bloody dash.

Did you re-gas yourself? And i'm not familiar with the leaking points. What if its leaking under the dash? I'm assuming this is a pain in the ass job to fix? 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
    • For race cars, this is one part where I find having the roll cage bar having gone through a hole in the floor better than the build it up on a ledge inside... The Merc I help on, the main hoop ends are marked on the car, and the jack is marked... Jack goes under a few inches and lifts one whole side of the car up... Removes that fight for long slim jacks for race car duties!   My biggest issue for the daily drivers I work on, is my jacks don't go high enough. The jacks start out on a few blocks, jack it up, then start a second jack under it on more blocks, and then I can get an axle stand under it. My axle stands are presently in use, and are nearly fully extended. The car is sitting with barely more than a cm of clearance to get the wheel off the studs! Sarah's Kluger is the same, as it has an ungodly amount of droop available in the suspension and a distinct lack of good jacking points!
    • Happy? Yep, my to do list is getting shorter and shorter. Either this light approaching is the end of the tunnel, or I'm about to be hit by a train... Ha ha ha   Also, Duncan isn't that far out of town that you need to make a multi day drive out of it. 😛
    • Sorry I meant that we are building the EH for a client.
    • LOL, when one "money pit" is never enough Noice, and excellent work mate
×
×
  • Create New...