Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Have a forged r34 using 10w60 mobile 1 running around 700 mark fly. 
 

i only used it 200 miles since last march when oil and filter was done. Now I will be using it more often and set to change oil and throw away what I had opened from last year.

 

Question is, does oil setting on shelf for a year or so breakdown or even few years?

 

how about sitting in engine?

 

engine rebuild will be a lot more costly hence why I change it every 12 month and wanted to get some opinion

 

question 2 is around timing belt, was done 4 years or maybe 5 years ago and since car done less than 1.5k miles. Would you change it ?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/485942-r34-oil-and-timing-belt-change/
Share on other sites

All comes down to recommendations and how much you have.

If you have the money, both are a great piece of mind to be done. And I believe most people would tell you to do them.

Any fuel sitting in the oil may have caused degradation.  Personally,  I have reused a timing belt after sitting for 2 years whilst getting a rebuild. Didn't have any issues.

Id probably dump the oil, fill with fresh, and get on your way.

But, keep in mind, I'm just some guy on the internet. 

17 hours ago, drifter17a said:

throw away what I had opened from last year.

Wow.. I literally just refreshed my oil with oil from a 20L mini drum that's probably about 5 years old.

It will get a thrashing in a couple of weeks on the track too.

But hey sure, if you want to discard new oil, thwn go for it.

As someone who has had a car sitting for a year... would you change *that* oil?

It's still sitting in a container, right? If oil is fine in a shelf, is it not fine in a sump?
I assume this is something specific to the oil being *unused* (i.e on shelf)

2 minutes ago, Kinkstaah said:

As someone who has had a car sitting for a year... would you change *that* oil?

It's still sitting in a container, right? If oil is fine in a shelf, is it not fine in a sump?
I assume this is something specific to the oil being *unused* (i.e on shelf)

I would, especially if the car has had a few start ups or short trips to move it around 

But then I'm anal as fark about oil changes, as oil is cheap, and servicing is fun.....

6 hours ago, Kinkstaah said:

As someone who has had a car sitting for a year... would you change *that* oil?

It's still sitting in a container, right? If oil is fine in a shelf, is it not fine in a sump?
I assume this is something specific to the oil being *unused* (i.e on shelf)

My answer would be, that depends.

If it's something that can be grumpy to start, runs a bit rich, and is likely an expensive engine, then yes, I would. But there's a few reasons why.

Sumps aren't really sealed, there is airways to them, so it is technically open to moisture. Secondly, if as mentioned it has been started, and it's a fuelled up, I'd dump it, as chances are, fuel is in the oil.

Next to that comes, how much use had said oil seen before it was parked up. IE, how much carbon, and potentially fuel/water did get in there while it was being used, and has now been allowed to sit, and slowly come together?

For the most part, if it's just been something like a road car, stock engine, nothing wild, f**king send it if it's not near oil change spec.

For the oil on the shelf.....just consider how long it sat around between when a dinosaur wee'd it out to being put in a container

There are fluids that don't keep, unsealed brake fluid in particular is no good within about 12 months, and regular unleaded starts to go bad (gummy, particularly in small carburetted engines) within 3 months, but oils are fine

  • Like 1
On 11/22/2024 at 8:44 AM, GTSBoy said:

Would you care to explain the logic behind that statement?

I have 2 year+ new oil that I've been collecting (left over oil from oil changes) fully synethic, I was gonna use as back up oil. Apparently the oil breaks down after a while, loses its properties but I haven't looked extensively into it. Otherwise would put the entire bottle in my engine.

Edited by silviaz
1 hour ago, silviaz said:

I have 2 year+ new oil that I've been collecting (left over oil from oil changes) fully synethic, I was gonna use as back up oil. Apparently the oil breaks down after a while, loses its properties but I haven't looked extensively into it. Otherwise would put the entire bottle in my engine.

It is fine. The bigger issue is people not being careful with their oil between breaking the seal and actually using it. I have seen literal pebbles of asphalt fall out of "clean oil" bottles. Always take great pains to avoid dropping the plastic foil bits into the oil. Try to avoid putting anything dirty into a "clean bottle" like vinyl hoses, etc. I pour my oil into a syringe, then cap it, then inject into the diff/transmission/etc instead of sucking it up with the hose now. I never drain "clean oil" from an engine and try to reuse it. List goes on. Don't care how clean it looks, the moment it goes into an engine even if it looks brand new I am not going to risk foreign debris getting into something.

  • Like 1
20 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

Bah. You could literally throw a handful of gravel into the sump with the fresh oil and that is where it will stay. Screen on pump inlet, filter on pump outlet. No grit is getting to the rubby bits.

Not saying to try it, but paranoia is unjustified.

I have seen enough fire and brimstone from TSBs about roloc disks causing spun bearings that foreign object contamination is top of mind for me. For sufficiently large particles you might be right but usually it’s a distribution of debris and some of the larger particles can also break down and shed bits. If local shops report RTV contamination in a turbo is enough to wreck them I’m taking zero chances if I can help it.

Yeah, there's a bit of a density and friability difference between pebbles and any of those other things. Silicone will definitely float in oil and so will be mobile enough to move around. Although, again, if it is upstream of the filter it really shouldn't go any further. I would only ever worry about silicone when it is in places downstream of the filter. Upstream of the pickup is a whole 'nother matter. We've all seen what that does.

I have seen the most abominable crap settled out in industrial gearboxes, trunnion lube systems and the like, without any sign that any of it has touched anything in the machine. Just chilling in the bottom, waiting for the inevitable operator error that causes the whole machine to need to be dismantled for repairs.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After using a protractor for an actually accurate assessment of what is required,  and by NOT using my uncalibrated eyeball I worked out I need a 25° silicone bend from the TB ro the MAF, but, my choice was either a 30° or a 23° (23° is a weird spec), so I grabbed the 23° one from Raceworks I also grabbed 1mtr of 3" straight from Just Jap, I needed 350mm, but they only had 300mm, or 1mtr lengths....meh Also ordered a 1/2" hose bulkhead fitting from fleabay, this has a smoothish mushroom looking head (they are designed for below the water line of boats) that will fit inside the bend, the hose bit and threaded bit looks to long, but nothing that a hacksaw cannot fix if required, the hose will then just get jamed on the threaded bit up to the retaining nut Fingers crossed and the unsightly amount of hose clamps will be reduced down to 4 once all the parts arrive 
    • Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...