Jump to content
SAU Community

Rez's R32 GTS-t Type M... presentable version!


Recommended Posts

2) What about oil coolers? Usually they are tucked in behind the side vents. Do they normally go on the passenger or driver side?

LW.

Yeah oil coolers usually go on the drivers side... thats why I mounted mine on the passenger side.
  • Replies 322
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

reo = bumper support rail

I found mine peppered with holes as well which weren't in use. I checked the service manual and it seems the reo was common for all non gtr models, and some of em have things like air ducts, foglights etc etc mounted in those holes. Instead of making different reo's for different options, we got one universal reo with empty holes.

I've gone thru and ripped out all the pansy air ducts attached to my reo and replaced it with nice thick air conditioning pipes.

only thing i was worried about with the SM no. plates was the legality of it? with melb. laws requiring it be visible from 45° angle from the front of the car... can u see the plate when standing in front of the car over the passengers side?

I know what you mean, and no, mine is not visible from the passenger side... but this is infinitely better than the no-front plate I was running for a few weeks there! Mine is also tilted down at the same angle as the bottom half of the front bar... so is not really that 'visible' per-se...

1) Is the top of the side vent showing above the plate, or is it just a reflection? I would try and make the braket so that only the bottom of the vent showed

It's just the reflection of the fold line from the bumper that you can see... the plate is the same height as the top of the vent so you can't see the vent :)

2) What about oil coolers? Usually they are tucked in behind the side vents. Do they normally go on the passenger or driver side?

My oil cooler is wedged in the passenger side vent... hence plate on the driver's side... though factory front bars on 32s are NOT GOOD for big oil coolers and air flow through!! :)

Rezz :)

  • 1 month later...
  • 2 weeks later...

hey rez, just a quick question about your rims. I got the same mags except white and 18x9 on all four. Are these rims popular? Can you direct me to a site of what these are worth? thanks heaps. Awesome ride ... rims r great in black.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=60666

hey rez, just a quick question about your rims. I got the same mags except white and 18x9 on all four. Are these rims popular? Can you direct me to a site of what these are worth? thanks heaps. Awesome ride ... rims r great in black.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=60666

Yes... they're quite popular with circuit racers of all sorts. I think RE Amemiya used to use them on their circuit FD3S (the yellow one) a few years back, countless smaller cars use them ie: privately owned Civics, Starlets etc... at A$600 a rim new (for 17") they're not cheap, and they're one of the lightest rims out there still, after 10 odd years.

You could probably sell your 18"s for $1,200 - 1,500 for the set depending on condition. But I'd hang on to them... especially in 18 inch they're probably as light as Volk TE37s.

awesome to hear ... looked up on the web but couldnt find much about these rims. Just want to know what they currently cost new, to know what other rims would be a fair trade for them, as I'm after something with a bit more dish. Anyways thanks very much for the info.

I know this is supposed to be Rez's thread, but can I just say that Marcus, your car looks so clean! My bro's 32 came with a GTR fibreglass copy, and thanks to Tein suspension and some car parks, now sports extra custom air holes.

Gotta love the drift setup cars - his mesh consisted of chicken wire cable tied to the bar. I think that's why your car caught my eye!

  • 3 months later...
  • 3 weeks later...
So where is Rezz these days...i cant even find a photo of his car to try and sourse one thru Nengun etc:(

This is a pic taken in March:

IMG_1740.jpg

... but I have the 'Aero bumper', you can't fit my front lip to your bumper...

  • 5 months later...

Thread resurrection

Well... this is probably the last time I'll post a pic of the old wine red R32. It'll be the last time because a very excited young whippersnapper came into our shop (TKO Tinting) and straight up offered $13,000 (THIRTEEN THOUSAND DOLLARS :P ) for my old ride... he said it was the "phattest" thing he'd ever seen (he was from the UAE I think) and with a $2,000 deposit it was a sealed deal.

Here she is, at TKO workshop today:

byebye32.jpg

...and here's me celebrating the $4,000 profit with a spastic flatland front wheel thingamajig... hehe

stansmith.jpg

I must admit, it's sad to see her go, as I've had alot of experiences with that car in 2 different countries now... which is kinda wierd feeling. GOODBYE RED!!!!

Heres my poor Silvia finally registered and with Aussie 'shaken' all done:

endofthejourney.jpg

The Silvia is staying around for the forseeable future.

Thread resurrection

...and here's me celebrating the $4,000 profit with a spastic flatland front wheel thingamajig... hehe

stansmith.jpg

Didn`t know you had wheelie skills. :P

Are you doing anything to the Silvia?

Motor,turbo.....

Edited by CircusMonkey
Didn`t know you had wheelie skills. :D

Are you doing anything to the Silvia?

Motor,turbo.....

Yeah I'm drop (literally) in a CA18DET... ok, ok, I know they're old and shite, but I'm not looking for a massive horsepower boost, just something better than the CA18DE boat anchor thats in there now!

A Vertex copy bodykit and some deep dish black 19" alloys (Junction Produce style) will finish it off. I hope to have this done by the end of the Australian summer.

thats a big front lip and how much and how much did the fender cost?

Bomex front lip (discontinued) cost A$150, and the wide aero fenders cost A$200 for the pair. Bear in mind that I bought both items off Yahoo Auctions Japan while I was in Japan, and obviously had the parts bolted to the car before I shipped them to Australia. It's the cheapest yet most time wasting way to do it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Input shaft bearing. They all do it. There is always rollover noise in Nissan boxes - particularly the big box. Don't worry about it unless it gets really growly.
    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
×
×
  • Create New...