Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yeah this does that Bryce, I'll be going with a nice bilstein upgrade if it does turn out to be that.

I'm running Bilstein on all for now and thinking of changing to something else, I have been recommended Koni but I'm still thinking about it.

I'm still having tracking (wondering) problems, I've spent 3K on the front end plus some on the rear, had all experts play with it, i.e. Inline & Capital Steer & Susp ... Changed all four tyres (which did make a huge difference) .. now I've been advised to go with Koni shocks!!

I'm not an expert so I'm being guided buy those who say they are :closedeyes:

BTW on tramlining....

if you've been spending money on front end bushes, while it can be expensive it's not wasted money IMO. Bushes wear and these cars sure aint new any more. I'm assuming you've change the caster rod bushes and upper control arm ones. there might also be a bush in the steering column, I'm not sure in the 34. there are also steering rack bushes and inner and outer tie rod ends.

if you've done all those, one thing that surprised me in my 33 was how much worse wide and sticky tyres are for tramlining. what size and brand/model of tyres are on the front?

oh and shocks have no impact on suspension or tracking in a double wishbone setup like skylines. the wheel would travel through exactly the same angles even if the shock didn't exist. most cars run strut front suspension where it does make a difference

Re above ^^^ . note to all,

If anyone has any thoughts or something to contribute I'd be happy to hear it, all contributions will be appreciated :rolleyes:

Balljoints, Tierods / ends, Steering Rack / Bushes / Bolts, Control arm Bushes, Wheel Bearings, Alignment, tyre pressure / width...

All things I'm going thru to stop the Wagz bump steering / tram lining.

Balljoints, Tierods / ends, Steering Rack / Bushes / Bolts, Control arm Bushes, Wheel Bearings, Alignment, tyre pressure / width...

All things I'm going thru to stop the Wagz bump steering / tram lining.

All been done, most replaced :yes:

Then all checked by both Chris at Inline and (forget his name) .. the guy who owns Capital Steering and Suspension, no one can find anything wrong.

Edited by THE34T

Wheel track makes a big difference. As in how wide they are.

And its just the way it is, if you want wide wheels.

You could probably compensate/compromise to some degree with settings, but you need adjusty bits for that.

Mines bent and adjusted, it feels ok.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Jack the back of the car up, pull that wheel off, pull that sensor out, and put a bore scope into the hole to inspect the outer casing, see if anything looks damaged before you pull the whole thing apart.
    • Ergh... So I pulled the speed sensor out again and the tip was shiny so I think it's rubbing the bearing. The bearing contains the magnets for the speed sensor so I think when the first sensor broke it damaged the magnet ring on the bearing.  This is just a Google image, but there is a hole going to the bearing. So when the tip broke off the old sensor I'm guessing it fouled the bearing... As the magnet is only protected by a plastic cover it would be easy to damage it. So I guess I'm doing a bearing again.   
    • My thinking is that if the O2 sensor is shot then your entire above described experience is pure placebo.
    • Here is the mess that I made. That filler there was successful in filling dents in that area. But in the middle area. I can feel dents. And I've gone ocer it multiple times with filler. And the filler is no longer there because i accidently sanded it away. I've chased my tail on this job but this is something else lol. So I'm gonna attempt filler one more time and if it doesn't work I'll just high fill primer the door and see where the issues are because guidecoat is of no use atm.
    • Ok, so I think I sort of figured out where I went wrong. So I definitely overthinked it, and I over sanded, which is probably a large part of the problem. to fix it, I ended up tapping some spots that were likely to be high, made them low, filled them in, and I tackled small sections at a time, and it feels a lot better.    I think what confused me as well is you have the bare metal, and some spots darker and some are lighter, and when I run my finger across it, it' would feel like it's a low spot, but I think it's just a transition in different texture from metal to body filler.    When your finger's sliding on the body filler, and crosses over to the bare metal, going back and forth, it feels like it's a low spot. So I kept putting filler there and sanding, but I think it was just a transition in texture, nothing to do with the low or high spot. But the panel's feels a lot better, and I'm just going to end up priming it, and then I'll block it after with guide coat.   Ended up wasting just about all of my filler on this damn door lol  
×
×
  • Create New...