Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I wouldn't bother with the gtst actuator....when they were sitting around for nothing they were worth it, but now days because lots of people do the change they are getting expensive. just buy a manual boost controller "bleed valve" instead. they are more adjustable and start at about $40.

If I had a road gtst (and I did or about 8 years), I'd keep it under 200kw. Bit of boost, maybe a computer (nistune or powerfc, haltec is double the price for no benefit on a basic setup). Definitely shocks, springs and swaybars (guy sydneykid's kit). And then enjoy it.....spend any money you had left on entering motorkhanas and track days :)

  • Like 1

I'd dump the 12psi actuator in just for that little bit more of a gain. Hmmmm... Might just go for a nistune+tune and hope for a 210kw? Is that realistic?

Dont go the 12psi actuator unless you get an ecu. Or youll just end up in r&r

Theres always something you didnt think of or notice that needs fixing.

I think you should go the cheap option, you can always do more later.

One thing i noticed with having the bonnet open at the back, is that fumes come into the cabin.

The inlet for cabin air is in the plenum (under the front window) and because its a really bad idea to chop big holes in the firewall, its really the only place you can get fresh air into the cabin.

So i realize now, the vented bonnet i have is only good for racing, and i have to close the back of my bonnet, the best place to vent is in the front guards.

Like they said, cf isnt good in the sun, just go fibreglass, its not much heavier if at all. Many cf bits are just cf on the surface, fibreglass underneath.

Painting mirrors will cost NOTHING at all, i have plenty of black paint, and gold pearl powder if you want to play with that. Save it for the engine or computer.

And from my experience with my Nistune, i agree that more isnt better, smoother and more filled out is better.

Just remember, speed comes from the power delivered ALL through the rev range you use before changing gear. So a fatter curve is faster than a high peak.

  • Like 1

Theres always something you didnt think of or notice that needs fixing.

I think you should go the cheap option, you can always do more later.

One thing i noticed with having the bonnet open at the back, is that fumes come into the cabin.

The inlet for cabin air is in the plenum (under the front window) and because its a really bad idea to chop big holes in the firewall, its really the only place you can get fresh air into the cabin.

So i realize now, the vented bonnet i have is only good for racing, and i have to close the back of my bonnet, the best place to vent is in the front guards.

Like they said, cf isnt good in the sun, just go fibreglass, its not much heavier if at all. Many cf bits are just cf on the surface, fibreglass underneath.

Painting mirrors will cost NOTHING at all, i have plenty of black paint, and gold pearl powder if you want to play with that. Save it for the engine or computer.

And from my experience with my Nistune, i agree that more isnt better, smoother and more filled out is better.

Just remember, speed comes from the power delivered ALL through the rev range you use before changing gear. So a fatter curve is faster than a high peak.

Didn't think about the air venting business into cabin... that's an interesting thought. I think I won't go for cosmetic but might chase 210kw or so.Nistune and tune or something. Not sure if I want to chase 250kw just yet... gah the choices!!

Jeremy I'll take you for a cruise soon in my 33. Maybe this week some time?

Sitting in the airport now

KEEN MARINE! ! ! !

Hmmm... maybe. Haven't been since Mik last entered.

Need New Camera Practise. :D

Do eet! :D

Oh, cams licence expired, cant afford racing at the moment anyway.

Still would like to go for a look. :thumbsup:

Yes! I would like to see the beast in real life ;)

Last month I was out there and it was a little wet. Turbo Ovlov almost went into the tyres at the first chicane :wacko:

Yeah they are small that's for sure. They wouldn't even be comfy for a medium build person.

Picked up the r33 from storage. Took roughly half hour to get started and then puffed black smoke for a while but now it's perfectly fine. Put a fresh tank of fuel in and took it for a good spin.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Don't even try to run it on the stock ECU if you're going to have the boost controller bring boost above ~10 psi. I've already told you that. If you use the Nistune ECU, you will need to CAREFULLY read the available documentation for Neo tuning, and read some threads on the Nistune forums, to discover the various things you have to do to prevent the ECU from going bananas when the boost is too high. The is a table associated with th boost sensor that must be modified to prevent it from shitting the bed. This is just one of the things that you will need to do to the tune in Nistune, because the Neo turbo ECU will be expecting to see a number of things (such as the TCS) that are not there, and you have to block the DTCs on those. It is totally not surprising to me that you are having the problems that you are, but the solutions to these problems have been known for >15 years. So just get it done.
    • Hi. Sry iam not a mechanic and iam not at the car atm so i dont know 100% but they told they measure those and even try to change those. AFM they have two. Coils are new a they have my old one too. Plugs too. ECU...we have 25 NEO stock and Nistune 25 NEO.   But i dont know if any one those could be the problem and why/if/what can cause this, Only thing they did not check is fuel...but that walbro 255 is new(like 1,5 years)... That fuel pressure gauge idk...but i let them know Any suggestions?   EDIT: how can they know if it is like you say he ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high? Tha car has boost controler
    • Can you clarify what you mean by boost cut, do you mean it misfires both when under load (driving) and when stationary and out of gear? Or does the ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high (boost control issue)? Does it occur at idle with no throttle? When you say "the ECU is OK", what ECU is it and why do you think it is OK? Have you used the NEO ECU, and if so do you have a MAP sensor attached? Same for the AFM, why do you think it is OK? Do you have any way to put a fuel pressure gauge on it (even just a mechanical one between the fuel filter and fuel rail)?
    • Hi.. Just another problem. So maybe you can help. I(my mechanic) done swap from my RB20DE NEO to RB25DET NEO. Everything is OK but we have a boost cut. Coils/Plugs are ok...AFM is ok. ECU is ok. I have Walbro 255 but it "changed" sound few months ago(you can hear it ouside) you did not hear that when it was new(maybe faulty?) Sooo...what now? What can cause this boost cut? It is even when you standing still...
×
×
  • Create New...