Jump to content
SAU Community

The Wasteland - ACT Style

krzysiu

By krzysiu,
in Australian Capital Territory

 Share

Recommended Posts

Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

I wouldn't bother with the gtst actuator....when they were sitting around for nothing they were worth it, but now days because lots of people do the change they are getting expensive. just buy a manual boost controller "bleed valve" instead. they are more adjustable and start at about $40.

If I had a road gtst (and I did or about 8 years), I'd keep it under 200kw. Bit of boost, maybe a computer (nistune or powerfc, haltec is double the price for no benefit on a basic setup). Definitely shocks, springs and swaybars (guy sydneykid's kit). And then enjoy it.....spend any money you had left on entering motorkhanas and track days :)

  • Like 1
  • Replies 10.8k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

dontyellpl0x
dontyellpl0x

Great wet day out at Wakie! Lots of sliding to be had!

Sinista32
Sinista32

picked this up today  

Anfanee
Anfanee

Annabelle Louise Cole Born on the 21st at 3.05am

Posted Images

zebra Grand Master

zebra

Posted
Posted

I'd dump the 12psi actuator in just for that little bit more of a gain. Hmmmm... Might just go for a nistune+tune and hope for a 210kw? Is that realistic?

Dont go the 12psi actuator unless you get an ecu. Or youll just end up in r&r

D.I.Y. Mik Veteran

D.I.Y. Mik

Posted
Posted

Theres always something you didnt think of or notice that needs fixing.

I think you should go the cheap option, you can always do more later.

One thing i noticed with having the bonnet open at the back, is that fumes come into the cabin.

The inlet for cabin air is in the plenum (under the front window) and because its a really bad idea to chop big holes in the firewall, its really the only place you can get fresh air into the cabin.

So i realize now, the vented bonnet i have is only good for racing, and i have to close the back of my bonnet, the best place to vent is in the front guards.

Like they said, cf isnt good in the sun, just go fibreglass, its not much heavier if at all. Many cf bits are just cf on the surface, fibreglass underneath.

Painting mirrors will cost NOTHING at all, i have plenty of black paint, and gold pearl powder if you want to play with that. Save it for the engine or computer.

And from my experience with my Nistune, i agree that more isnt better, smoother and more filled out is better.

Just remember, speed comes from the power delivered ALL through the rev range you use before changing gear. So a fatter curve is faster than a high peak.

  • Like 1
RosieR34 Grand Master

RosieR34

Posted
Posted

Theres always something you didnt think of or notice that needs fixing.

I think you should go the cheap option, you can always do more later.

One thing i noticed with having the bonnet open at the back, is that fumes come into the cabin.

The inlet for cabin air is in the plenum (under the front window) and because its a really bad idea to chop big holes in the firewall, its really the only place you can get fresh air into the cabin.

So i realize now, the vented bonnet i have is only good for racing, and i have to close the back of my bonnet, the best place to vent is in the front guards.

Like they said, cf isnt good in the sun, just go fibreglass, its not much heavier if at all. Many cf bits are just cf on the surface, fibreglass underneath.

Painting mirrors will cost NOTHING at all, i have plenty of black paint, and gold pearl powder if you want to play with that. Save it for the engine or computer.

And from my experience with my Nistune, i agree that more isnt better, smoother and more filled out is better.

Just remember, speed comes from the power delivered ALL through the rev range you use before changing gear. So a fatter curve is faster than a high peak.

Didn't think about the air venting business into cabin... that's an interesting thought. I think I won't go for cosmetic but might chase 210kw or so.Nistune and tune or something. Not sure if I want to chase 250kw just yet... gah the choices!!

Jeremy I'll take you for a cruise soon in my 33. Maybe this week some time?

Sitting in the airport now

KEEN MARINE! ! ! !

dontyellpl0x Mentor

dontyellpl0x

Posted
Posted

Hmmm... maybe. Haven't been since Mik last entered.

Need New Camera Practise. :D

Do eet! :D

Oh, cams licence expired, cant afford racing at the moment anyway.

Still would like to go for a look. :thumbsup:

Yes! I would like to see the beast in real life ;)

Last month I was out there and it was a little wet. Turbo Ovlov almost went into the tyres at the first chicane :wacko:

Manuel Kasko Grand Master

Manuel Kasko

Posted
Posted

Yeah they are small that's for sure. They wouldn't even be comfy for a medium build person.

Picked up the r33 from storage. Took roughly half hour to get started and then puffed black smoke for a while but now it's perfectly fine. Put a fresh tank of fuel in and took it for a good spin.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • R34_GT to Turbo
      Does RB25DE Neo lower intake work with RB25DET Neo Upper intake manifold?

      By R34_GT to Turbo · Posted

      Ok I get you. But isn’t the butterfly intake a headache with the +T?  see this is my plan so far but please advise me into the right direction.  Nistune Ecu, 1000cc Bosch injectors, TD05 or TD06 Kinugawa turbo using stock rb25det exhuast manifold, walbro fuel pump unsure of model I think it’s 450/460, spitfire coils and sparks to suit and a R35 MAF sensor and boost sensor.    I was thinking maybe do a cheap eBay plenum $400-500 or try find a stock det neo intake. I think I’d port match it so it’s getting the full capacity but open to advice please.  Thanks 
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      The issue now is the 'fuel cut' while driving, and when it happend, it does not stall. This, I did not test the fuel pressure while driving as I cannot with a fuel pressure gauge. I do have Nistune logs, yes. I have also replaced the MAF Sensor.   Also related to the FPG Fuel Hanger – I just realized that I need a Deutsch Crimp Tool to crimp some cables for the FPG Fuel Hanger. Need to purchase additional cables as the kit only included 2, which are for the float. FPG has not responded to my emails so far since purchasing. I thought about taking it to someone and having it done professionally, but I am reluctant since everyone I took it to messed up in some way.  
    • MBS206
      NC MX5

      By MBS206 · Posted

      There's a good German place in Brisbane if youre up for the drive 😛
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      NC MX5

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      The German place in Cabramatta was rock solid, fresh pretzel cooked to order back then. Then it went all quiet, after all the poker machines were removed, then I believe it closed for good. I did drive past the other week and noticed outdoor lighting a big screen, but no idea what is there now.  
    • joshuaho96
      R33 GTR running -9 with no tune

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Yeah I suspect even if you hold airmass per cycle/cylinder constant if you get too far away from stock you're still going to have problems running the factory tune within the bounds of the factory load scale. Cams, different displacement/rod ratio, etc. I'm just lucky that the GTIII-SS with wastegate boost + CA compliance cats is pretty much equivalent to stock turbos. When I have actual space I can finally get it tuned and modify the fuel system for flex fuel to 100% handle any detonation concerns when cranking the boost to whatever those dinky turbos can put out.
×
×
  • Create New...