Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 7 months later...

Im sorry to be digging up an old post, but I have been trying to find some information on the EL hand controllers and in particular the issue of the screen going dim and becoming un readable.

My car is running an R32 GTR Power FC and 4 years ago I swapped my original hand controller for a new EL hand controller as it was way easier to read while driving.

I have noticed the last time I used the car the readout was very dim, even with brightness at 100% and I just went to start it and give it a run and the display is now almost unreadable, especially in the sun. My car gets stuff all use, in the 4 years its probably had no more than 20 drives, so fair to say, Im very dissapointed with the lifespan of the display!

Has anyone had this issue and how did you fix it?

 

Thanks and sory again for diging up an old thread.

Are you handy on the solder iron? I can point you in the direction of replacing the screen yourself. I've done this quite a few times for myself and a couple mates. (There was a light reflection when photos were taken)

1.jpg.29c14f746f7eb1d5f050310180b14b54.jpg

2.jpg.6d35359bc3cf91acc72e676ebde048c0.jpg

  • 5 months later...
On 13/11/2019 at 10:45 AM, paulr33 said:

updated the first post also, happy reading from 2012....

Hello Paul,
I thought that may be you can help me. When I tune jzx90 toyota chaser with power fc I have an interesting issue which I couldn’t solve. Issue is when I plug in tps sensor socket and make wide open throttle car bogs (like boost cut but off course its not a boost cut because no boost yet.) and when I plug off tps socket engine check light comes on but engine revs and boost comes on without any bog. On power fc commander vta1 is 0.4v at idle and at wot its around 4.1v.  If you can advise some solutions to me I will be happy, may be I did something wrong but tps looks fine because voltage increase when throttle opened and check engine light goes of when I plug in the tps socket. Thank you in advance.

  • 3 months later...

It's probably worth a separate thread, but I'd say that is very interesting. Lots of people running PFC, since nothing has changed about the fact they are a cheap and easy way to tune an RB for 90% of uses. Plus I think they will start to be desirable for the "keep the purity" crowd who want period modifications.

  • 3 years later...
On 3/5/2021 at 6:23 AM, Duncan said:

It's probably worth a separate thread, but I'd say that is very interesting. Lots of people running PFC, since nothing has changed about the fact they are a cheap and easy way to tune an RB for 90% of uses. Plus I think they will start to be desirable for the "keep the purity" crowd who want period modifications.

They definately are coming back around, so many GTRs coming through again with them.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...