Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Side point Harry - Lakeside is open???!?? :)

sort of... Total Driver managed to get permission to include sprints in one of their training days. It was awesome to get back out on that track!

Pine RIvers Shire Council is due to make their decision on the tender process for the management of Lakeside any day now, and their target is to have the place open by September, so stay tuned!

I can't believe its happening! :)

I've got

235/40Z/R17 and 255/40Z/R17 yokohama AVS 102's all round. Directional tyre, work well. Grip is good. $330 and $360 fitted each.

PS I've just been informed that they are no longer available!!! Damn!!!

I've got

235/40Z/R17 and 255/40Z/R17 yokohama AVS 102's all round. Directional tyre, work well. Grip is good. $330 and $360 fitted each.

PS I've just been informed that they are no longer available!!! Damn!!!

They are available, however it is a long wait. I have been waiting for the Yoko V103's for almost 9-10 weeks. Now they have advised the shipment is still in Japan and that there is a further wait of 6-8 weeks.

I couldn't wait that long as my tyres were getting very slim, so I found a set of brand new Dunlop SP3000A (OEM tyre on the XR6, XR8 and XR6 Turbo) on EBAY ( Thanks Jason). Paid $600 for all four. Not a bad price.

Performance so far is great. Looking forward to a spirited mountain run to give them a real test.

Dry = 8.5

Wet = 8 (haven't really pushed too hard yet as the tyres are too new.)

getting the yoko C drives on monday - will let you all know how they go after a few drives compared to my 3000A's

:P

Cool cool. Make sure you give them atleast a few hundred km to a thousand km to wear in a little before you start giving them some grief!! lol :P

Just bought a set of Falken FK 452's. 2x 235/45/17 and 2 x 255/40/17's

They are very good. Together with a good wheel alignment my car feels toatally different to drive. Excellent grip considering my diff is worn. Had ZE-326's before these and my car was constantly single wheeling on power and now it takes much more to get it spinning the wheels.

Can't comment on the wet yet.

This is on a lightly modded R33 gtst by the way.

Got a set of Federal SS595 245x50x16 on all fours. Wont be able to test them until the engine's in, early week after next. Wll be pushin 400awkw's, should be interesting to see how the handle.

BTW i paid $145.90ea

Just installed Toyo T1R for my rear 245/40/45 (fronts installed 2 month ago), first think i notice after getting out of the shop is the quietness in the cabin & road noise. Once i hit the highways, the ride was really smooth and quiet, the only audible noise is coming from my open pod air filter. The slight increase of sidewall thickness is more comfortable on bumpy surface.

Haven't tried on wet yet, gotta run it in a little more. Keep everyone posted.

I think you will find any tyre in a semi-silica or a full silica, will be quiet on the road. but good to know, i do a heap of long drives to country vic from adelaide, and i would like to know what tyres are quiet.

depends on the size of the tread blocks, large square-on tread blocks are noisy while blocks that are tapered and smaller are less noisy.

silica definitely helps wet grip and longetivity, it might help noise as well!

Bridgestone SO3. 255/17 rear and 235/17 front.

Approx 450-490 per corner.

I have run bridgestones right back since the SO1's thru to SO2's.

I run the full Whiteline Suspension Works Pack and its a brilliant combo.

They last me two years per set, driven hard and daily, never failed.

I Rotate them evry 6 months.

I also run them on my stock R33 Sedan.

Brilliant

:)

Car handling felt good and the quietness is still there...probably done 2000kms by now. Recently i pump up the pressure from 32psi allround to 34psi front & 32psi rear, the car handles pretty weird on long sweeping corners. The front twitch a little then rear felt like it's gonna give way. No sure whether the car was gonna understeer before i counter it slightly but the experienced gave me quite a shock though.

btw im running 235/40/18 front & 245/40/18 rear and still on standard shock/springs. What tyre pressure are u guys running for this sort of setup?

Car handling felt good and the quietness is still there...probably done 2000kms by now. Recently i pump up the pressure from 32psi allround to 34psi front & 32psi rear, the car handles pretty weird on long sweeping corners. The front twitch a little then rear felt like it's gonna give way. No sure whether the car was gonna understeer before i counter it slightly but the experienced gave me quite a shock though.

btw im running 235/40/18 front & 245/40/18 rear and still on standard shock/springs. What tyre pressure are u guys running for this sort of setup?

hey mate

i have run 255/40/17 t1-r on the rear for a while now and i have found that they have soft sidewalls (relative to other low profile tyres i have tried) so to get them best out of them i aways run them at minimum 38psi, they feel the best at about 42. when u pump them to 42 they get a LOT sharper than when they are mid 30's.

i agree they are one of the quietest tyre in that size and profile, i use dunlop sp sport maxx on the front and they are way noisier than t1-rs even when brand new compared to old t1-rs.

the sidewall flex can be unnerving especially in conjunction with stupid hicas, but they start sliding gradually so you learn to trust them.

Morning fellas,

i run 42-45psi n my SO3's , anything less than that and it can get a bit slippery!

I have adjustable whiteline swaybars, the are set on the 1st of the four settings, shes pretty ruf arond town but its brilliant at higherspeeds.

i make a regular night trip reasonable quickly from pakenham to healesville and its a bad road but the setup never fails, the car satys solid.

I have spent more $$$ building the suspension brakes and tyres than the engine.

This is the best i can find, whitline all the way.

come to think of it i hav never tried the 4th setting.

:rofl:

Thanks Siks & Ronin

I took the car for a drive on some sweeping canyon uphill & downhill on the weekend with 32PSI all round, the tyre really do slide a little (soft sidewall). Then i felt when down left hander turns, heard some noice & knocking sound probably from my shocks. Maybe its time to change them, not sure how long since i bought the car had original shock on.

Will try to pump up the tyre tomoro to whether the ride & handling be better. Should it be pump up equally on all tyres or just the back? Is the car gonna have oversteer just increasing the rear?

Have'nt driven the GTR for a while now as the Steel belts are hanging out on the rear, so finally rang around a few tyre places today.

I like the idea of Federals 595 range, but still unsure which way to go for my car which probably will see 5000kms per year including maybe 4 competitive track events.

595-ss Treadwear 240

245/40/18 = $255 ($1020)

265/35/18 = $320 ($1280)

595-rs Treadwear 180

265/35/18 = $470 ($1880)

I have approval from the Mrs to go for the 595-rs's, after some....urm...discussion! :) and they would look horn, but are they worth it for a handfull of competive events, or would the 595-ss's be 90% as good for 50% of the money?

What do you guys reckon...?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Welcome to Skyline ownership. Yes, it is entirely possible parts websites get things wrong. There's a whole world of inaccuracies out there when it comes to R34 stuff (and probably 33 and 32). Lots of things that are 'just bolt on, entirely interchangable' aren't. Even between S1 and S2 R34's. Yes they have a GTT item supposedly being 296mm. This is incorrect. I would call whoever you got them from and return them and let them know the GTT actually uses 310mm rotors. Depending on where you got them from your experience and success will obviously vary.
    • Hi...a bit a "development" on the brakes. I spoke to the guys where i get brakes from...and they are saying that 296mm EBC are for R34 GT-T. I then went to their site: https://www.ebcbrakes.com/vehicle/uk-row/NISSAN/Skyline (R34)/ and search for my car(R34 GT 1998 - it has GTT brakes) and it show me this USR1229 number and they are rly 296mm rotors... So now iam rly confused... The rotors i have now on the car are 310mm asi shown... So where is the problem? Does the whole EBC got it wrong or my calipers are just...idk know what?  
    • Oh What the hell, I used to get a "are you sure you want to reply, this thread is XX months old" message. Maybe a software update remove that. My bad.
    • This is a recipe for disaster* Note: Disaster is relative. The thing that often gets lost in threads like this is what is considered acceptable poke and compromise between what one person considers 'good' looks and what someone else does. The quoted specs would sit absurdly outside the guards with the spacers mentioned and need  REALLY thin tyres and a LOT of camber AND rolling the guards to fit. Some people love this. Some people consider this a ruined car. One thing is for certain though, rolling the guards is pretty much mandatory for any 'good' fitment (of either variety). It is often the difference between any fitment remotely close to the guards. "Not to mention the rears were like a mm from hitting the coilovers." I have a question though - This spec is VERY close to what I was planning to buy relative to the inboard suspension - I have an offset measuring tool on the way to confirm it. When you say "like a mm" do you mean literally 1mm? Or 2mm? Cause that's enough clearance for me in the rear :p I actually found the more limiting factor ISNT the coilover but the actual suspension arms. Did you take a look at how close those were?
    • @GTSBoy yeah sorry i know thery are known for colors bud those DBA are too in colors 🙂 Green will be good enough for me  
×
×
  • Create New...