Jump to content
SAU Community

Stagea Brakes


Sydneykid

Recommended Posts

Are you using the correct matching r34 disks to the calipers?

Just saw your post Scotty, yeah I believe the disc I have is incorrect for my application. It was purchased after I was told by numerous people that the calipers I had were R33.

After I did my own research, I realised I had R34 but didnt realise that the disc wouldnt match up.

I'm hoping that DBA will take them back and alllow me to pay the difference on discs to suit R34

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

So.... went to get braided lines done today. Got a call a few hours later and they cant do them due to the design of the block etc. Has anyone had braided lines for the c34 s2 made up in Sydney, the central coast or newcastle?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sorry not Sydney, but I have had some made in SA so they should have them on the shelf. You could look into getting some posted. They cost $400 or $500 from memory, PM me if you'd like me to look back into my file...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

ok so i've read through a few pages at the front and rear of this thread. Emailed a few ebay sellers, they were totally useless!

I want a straight specific answer to my questions so I can do it right the first time.

Car: 1999 C34 2WD/ RWD auto rb25det series 2

I need something direct fit/ factory replacement for the rear rotors/ brakes asap.. rotors are stuffed. Part number's etc

Best caliper upgrade conversions for the front on the S2?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Except rs has 12mm bolt holes for front calipers.

Not a problem as you can make new press in inserts for the calipers, or the dodgy option is to drill out the holes in the struts.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 5 weeks later...

this spring swapped 350z's Brembos to Akebonos. HUGE difference in brake power, with ENDLESS pads in brembo calipers and OEM nissan in akebono's

in Russia akebonos are rather cheap - full new set is for 2000 USD, used is easy to buy for 1000 USD. Rears fits with rotors from G37S or M37S, not FX! fronts are ok with adapters

c2129e4s-960.jpg

9e129e4s-960.jpg

THIS BRAKES WILL NOT FIT WITH WHEELS (tried personally):

1. 18" BNR34's forged OEM wheels

2. 18" CPV35's track edition

that was pity, cause i had to sell all my winter rims((

18" nismo LMGT4 fit perfectly.

this affects inner diameter of wheel, not offset

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Upgraded the front brakes to Akebono from Z1 Motorsports in the states. It ran about US$1100 including SS lines and Hawk HPS pads.

And what are your impressions? Would you do the rears as well? Seems like a super price. Did it include both Calipers and Discs?

Some photos would make your post so much better ;)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

And what are your impressions? Would you do the rears as well? Seems like a super price. Did it include both Calipers and Discs?

Some photos would make your post so much better ;)

Same brake kit as Erop's post above mine. Silver Infiniti calipers. I will post up some photos to the garage section and link the photos to the post later.

Yes, the kit includes the calipers, slot rotors, pads, hardware kit, and SS lines. I NEEDED front brakes at the time because my stock single pistons needed to be rebuilt and my pads and rotors were shot. I still have some pad life left in the stock rears so I was going to wait until the rear pads are almost gone before ordering the Akebono rears. I think they run $700 or so from Z1 Motorsports and the SS line kit I have from ordering the fronts included the rear lines.

Impressions? Night and day difference. The Akebonos are AWESOME. No more brake pedal pulsing and spongy brakes. My GTR's had me spoiled so I had to upgrade.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Well the GTR rotors are 296 x 32 and the later GTST are 296 x 30 so if the offset is the same you should be ok. The calipers are the expensive item so you could always buy some GTR rotors if it doesn't work.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 months later...

I have read through most of this thread and have come to the conclusion that there are some here that simply do NOT understand a few things about this topic of Brakes,

I read some place here that someone wanted to have a switch in the ABS , this is Illegal and IF you have some sort of incident then your Insurance is likely going to be void.

I will likely make myself somewhat unpopular but here goes anyway:

The reason your ABS was felt is primarily due to 1 or a combination of 2 things poor road surface grip poor tire grip.
This has absolutely nothing to do with the ability of the brake system to retard the rotation of the wheels.

What this means is if you upgrade the Rotor's and Calliper's without due consideration to the tires (given the fact that tit is they that are doing the hard work )
in other words if you have shit tires then you in turn will have shit brakes it IS that simple, why well because the last link in the chain is the tires. thats why.

Edited by MozzMann
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

We really are lucky to have you here to tell us how it is.

Where have you been all my life?

Also; Tyres, not tires.

Welcome to Australia.

  • Like 4
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Agreed with the rest. Also at least based on my own research, there are no readily available stock or close-to-stock RB20Neo maps that you could download and use as a base were you to buy a complete standalone ECU, and the regular 20DET maps don't really work well so you'd need to take it to a tuner if you have no experience. I installed an AEM V2 on my 20Neo+T and had lots of headaches until I got it to run and idle properly but I've yet to remap it fully. You have to start building up your timing and fuel maps entirely from the ground up; even the ones for a 25 didn't work at all.
    • Got some decent progress after work yesterday and also today. Got the ECU all wired and passenger side interior all back together. Kept the wiring up nice and high to avoid people standing on it. Got the surge tank relays rewired and tidied up the pump wiring and cut a hole to bring the cables through.  I found a spare USB cable I had lying around so I decided to cut it up and see if I could use it for my CAN 1 bus. Turned out one of the pins I needed was to the shield of the cable so i cut it up and desoldered it and resoldered to the correct pins.  Had the issue with the powersteering hose hitting the A/C compressor and fan shroud. I pulled the bracket off and modified it to remove the front mounting point which now clears it all. Will keep an eye on it to see if theres any signs of fouling once it's up and running.
    • That's some good input mate. Nice.
    • So today I went well outside my comfort zone (again) to replace my valve cover gasket.  I have had a big leak over the exhaust leading to a lot of smoke and smell every time I drove it. The leak was in the rear driver's corner.  The job wasn't hard as such, just a bit finicky and time consuming.  The old gasket was rock hard and broken right where the leak was.  The leaky corner had so much sitting oil in it.  The good news to my amateur eyes was no buildup or sludge under the cover. It all looked fairly nice in there.   I haven't started it yet. I ran out of light and body when putting the coils and injector loom back in. Probs only 30min left for the morning.  I was so nervous putting the cover back on, I must have lifted it 5 times to make sure the gasket was still seated properly. God it's going to be nice to be leak free and not make other traffic light queuers think my car is about to explode.
    • Gave the Mazda it's first wash, it will need some clay, a light compound, and polish polish to remove a few swirl marks, but that will be a job for when I have a full day to get my DA polisher action on
×
×
  • Create New...