Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 1 month later...

Skyline model = R33 GTS-T

Wheel diameter = 18"

Wheel width = 8.5J (F) & 9.5J (R)

Wheel offset = NA

Tyre size = 235/40//18 (F) & 255/35/18 (R)

Modifications to fit = none... so for. (Yet to test drive)

 

 

20230107_174908.jpg

20230107_185852.jpg

20230107_185815.jpg

afternoon all,

Im looking at rims for my 32gtst.

Im liking the work emotion XT7 range.

The guards will be rolled and have front adjustable and rear adjustable arms. I dont want top pull the guards at all but happy to run some camber. 

they come in 18 X 9.5 - [5-100, 5-114.3 / +12, +22, +30, +38] - Deep concave

10.5 +22 Ultra deep

What do you think my go to will be front and rear

You're not getting 10.5s on it at either end, without wider guards. So just forget that.

The real question will be whether you could ever get 9.5s on the front. They might just be able to squeeze on the back, given camber arms.

I go back to the one true known thing, which is that R33 GTR wheels fit and they are 9" +30. A 9.5 will need to find up to an extra half inch of clearance, probably on the outside. it might be better if there was a +25 option.

The other thing to remember is that the rear subframe tends to sit off to one side, so you have different guard to wheel alignment from side to side. This is fine most of the time, but when you are trying to cram absolutely everything in......

You gotta keep in mind when people talk fitment in 2023, the rim and tyre are two seperate entities.

a 9.5 +27 fits in the same space a 9 +30 does... if the measurement you are actually using is a 265/35/18 tyre mounted to it..... I am sure you know where I'm going with this.

Of course, to a degree a rim will physically hit suspension components or be 30mm outside the guard even if the tyre is inside it. Of course you and I would say that's stupid, but instagram may disagree.

42 minutes ago, Adz2332 said:

Haha I definitely don't want to go hella flush lol. It's more about liking the deep concave wheel look over the semi concave. 

 

www.willtheyfit.com

Very useful. Or measure. As GTSBoy said, 17x9 +30 just about lines up perfect with the outside of the guard.

10.5 +22 is 27mm beyond the guard.

  • Thanks 1
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
On 31/01/2023 at 10:41 AM, niZmO_Man said:

Yeah. You could re-lip the rears to 9-9.5" if you like.

Thanks for that. Should they be a flush fit do you know. I did think of a re-lip but a decent price and quality in the UK is hard to come by.

They won't be flush at 8"+28.

2 hours ago, CHRISSID6 said:

I did think of a re-lip but a decent price and quality in the UK is hard to come by.

Say what? There would have to be hundreds of trustworthy wheel houses in the US. You have 15x Australia's population and I can think of 5 people I would trust to do work on wheels, just in my state of 1.7M people. And price is not a factor. Quality work on wheels is not cheap anywhere.

12 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

They won't be flush at 8"+28.

Say what? There would have to be hundreds of trustworthy wheel houses in the US. You have 15x Australia's population and I can think of 5 people I would trust to do work on wheels, just in my state of 1.7M people. And price is not a factor. Quality work on 

Will they stick further in or out do you know? 

By the time I have shipped the wheels out to the US it will cost loads so ideally somewhere local in the UK.  

There is a company called Rimscarnated

that seem to do nice work which is a option. 

  • 3 weeks later...

Just bought an R34 GTT from Garage Defend and want to get some more aggressive wheels for it to fill these fenders (guards). My car has a GTR front end conversion with some sort of rear overfender which I don’t know how much the extension is from stock. I’m guessing +25mm wider?

Couple questions I have is how much wider is the GTR OEM fenders than stock GTT?

How much wider are GTR Ztune fenders compared to stock GTT?

I am looking to do a 19x9.5 -3 and 19x10.5 +/- 0. 

245/35/19 Front 

265/35/19 rear 

 

E791633F-D135-4C9F-A8E8-7B5A817A518C.jpeg

D6E8E5AF-3CE7-4877-B039-A6A4AF02A396.jpeg

EE7CBC4B-26C1-4FE8-A326-94539F9A203D.jpeg

54177075-DB81-4263-A470-C5B033D0681E.jpeg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bummer...yeah i "need" something to "ease" up the work and for my driving it would be enough.    Iam counting the tune "without" turbo. I do not mean "cheap" like something from Temu around 200 USD, "Cheap" is something around 1000 USD? 
    • Starter motors used to use the weight of metal (magnets) to provide torque. Now they use (more) current instead. This. It's completely normal.
    • So thing that had me stumped, but I think is OK....is that when it was up in the air, in neutral I had it running to bleed to coolant while I put the wheels back on. I noticed the rears were turning (slowly) which I'd never seen before 20250928_163512.mp4     Because there had been an issue with clutch slip due to pedal adjustment on the dyno, I assumed there was still and issue so spent some quality time upside down under the dash adjusting the pedal....but no matter what I did the wheels still turned in neutral. Even disconnected the master cylinder to pedal rod and same. In despair, I even removed the clutch slave so there was no chance of any preload causing it.....still happened. So either: 1. Something is not right in the bellhousing, or 2. Its a thing sometimes with cold, thick gearbox oil Internet says it might be 2, I hope so!
    • OK, few more things sorted and it is ready for a shakedown on 10-Oct, with one weird thing. Changed the run in oil and filter for the good stuff. 8l came out, about 8.5 went in with filter so that looks all good. Changed the starter (again), this time for a brand new one, works good. Interesting that the Taaaarks one is shorter than factory but spins harder, I guess electronics have moved on a little in the last 30 years. Will be nice to have a bit of extra space under there. Put the timing cover back on, and noted where the cam gears were set as a record.  Will need to double check the timing but it is pretty close. Also put the coil pack cover and intake snorkel back on. Exhaust Inlet Changed the water out for coolant, bled up nicely. Removed the rear brake pads (well worn factory sumitomo ones!), gave the hardware a good clean and reassembled. I've put bendix XP on the back again because the price is excellent at $150 a set and they worked well on the V37. Front pads have plenty so no issue there
×
×
  • Create New...