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as above ^^

first one was on the 15th regarding payment sent.

not meaning to be hassling you or anything.

just really want the parts before the holidays (1 week now)

thanks gary

Ross.

Hi mate

I meant to do this a few months ago but fell really sick and couldnt afford too being off work. But i have money now! I already have the bilsteins on my car so thats done. I have a s2 r33 gtst. ive just realised today the inside camber wear on my car is bad.. the inside camber on my rears is bald, so need new rears asap. and my fronts arent too much better, but i think can get away with them for a bit. left side of car wear is a bit worse than right too?

So i have $1k i can spend. What do you suggest i do? whiteline springs all round and rear camber kit?

Is the price list on the main page up to date?

Cheers

Rob

Hi Gary,

I haven't been able to get a PM through to you for a while, so I will give you the details for the remainder of my order on here:

Nissan Skyline R33 GTS-T

73175 Front Springs $144.00

83139 Rear Springs $144.00

Front Bilstein Shocks $476.00

Rear Bilstein Shocks $476.00

Standard Strut Tops x 4 $240.00 (Already paid for - you are holding in your garage)

W0921 Bump Stop & Dust Cover x 2 $102.00

Freight zero _________

Sub Total $1,582.00

Less extra 5% (79.10)

Less payments made (240.00)

_________

Total paid today to Jamex $1,262.90

My receipt number for payment of above is 875883, paid 29/6/07 11:31AM.

Please PM for delivery details. I would like to get everything installed on 7 July.

Cheers

Ben

relax bear84

i have used SK on several occasions and i can guarantee you will never have more issues than i have had (not due to SK's fault BTW, where the model variant i have has different parts to other models) but he has been helpful and always provided the correct part AND spent the time talking through problems i have faced.

you will get your parts.

no doubt the pm box has been full.

Edited by wolverine

Sorry for the delay in responding to PM's, they come in faster than I can answer. I have answered 27 since lunch time today, only 42 more to go to get up to date. If you haven't received a response yet, then please be patient I will get to all of them, as I always have.

:dry: cheers :w00t:

Thanks for getting my order together and getting back to me Gary. My car is almost at the point of being undriveable so the new suspension couldn't come sooner!!

Cheers

Sorry for the delay in responding to PM's, they come in faster than I can answer. I have answered 27 since lunch time today, only 42 more to go to get up to date. If you haven't received a response yet, then please be patient I will get to all of them, as I always have.

:D cheers :D

what's involved in upgrading swaybars?, is it as simple as swaping them over??

and a price for front and rear posted to briz would be much appreciated!!

Edited by Crossie

SK,

I've got what looks to be king springs on the front of mine and original worn dampers. It hits the cut shorter bump stops often. Is fitting bilsteins likely to solve this or should I order whiteline springs with them?

Also I have the adjustable sway bars. They are set on medium all around. Would you recommend maybe hard on the back?

Thanks,

Daniel.

SK,

I've got what looks to be king springs on the front of mine and original worn dampers. It hits the cut shorter bump stops often. Is fitting bilsteins likely to solve this or should I order whiteline springs with them?

Also I have the adjustable sway bars. They are set on medium all around. Would you recommend maybe hard on the back?

Thanks,

Daniel.

Hi Daniel, it depends on which King springs you have. The Lows are OK, but the SuperLows are not. So check the part numbers, if you can't read them then check the heights, centre of wheel to guard. Lows will be around 350 mm front and 340 mm rear, SuperLOows are around 335 mm front and 330 mm rear

Regardless, lowwered springs and standard shocks is a not a good idea. This thread explains why;

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...c=103158&hl

The Bilsteins have the rebound valving necessary to control the higher spring rates, plus they have more low frequency bump valving to compensate for the reduced travel that the lowered springs result in.

I usually start of with the front bar on full soft and the rear on the middle setting.

If it oversteers too much, then I move the front bar to the middle setting

If it still oversteers too much, then I back the rear bar off to the softest setting

If it still oversteers too much, then I move the front bar to the highest setting

If it still oversteers too much, then you might need some more rear camber and/or the HICAS is still working (get rid of it) and/or the rear subframe alignment kit needs to be set to maximum traction (squat)

OR

If it understeers too much, then I move the rear bar to the highest setting

If it still understeers too much then you don't have enough caster/camber on the front

:P cheers :)

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