Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 4 weeks later...

I just ordered one of those Tomei HICAS Lock Bars....I have been told it stiffens up the rear end (,gets rid of the HICAS dash light) and makes cornering more "driver controlled" ... is that right?

Also, is the power steering fluid reservior a smallish container next to the brake booster. And does it look like a small brake booster setup?. I'm asking because what ever that is, on my GTR, it has very dirty fluid in it and was wondering how I could drain it out to refill it?

cheers

Also, is the power steering fluid reservior a smallish container next to the brake booster. And does it look like a small brake booster setup?. I'm asking because what ever that is, on my GTR, it has very dirty fluid in it and was wondering how I could drain it out to refill it?

cheers

No that is for the clutch booster. The power steering reservoir is next to the air filter box in the engine bay.

ok.. so is this where you can loop it?? ts just on the RHS under the starter motor...where the fuel lines, etc go to the back of the car as well there is about 6 pipes going back there.

this is for R32 GTS-T but I assume its similar to GTR HICAS setup.

post-1332-1137988270.jpg

Hey Gary, did you get a chance to take some pics of the loops at all?

Cheers

PS got my swaybars and alignment stuff on Friday, thanks

Hey Gary....picsorban....everyone is waiting...it sounds like the ideal setup...love some pictures to see what/how you did it....a picture tells 1000 words....it also saves a lot of typing.

The R32GTST is in the workshop in pieces, I will have to assemble the HICAS bypass to the suggested method. It is currently being modded to take a larger power steering cooler.

I am not in the workshop, I don't go there every day

There is no digital camera in the workshop, last time I took the digital camera to the workshop it got borrowed and dissappeard for 3 weeks. The time before that I went to take some photos and SOMEONE had let the batteries go flat. You know who you are.

There is no PC in the workshop and no internet connection.

When I am next in the workshop with a digital camera with good batteries, I will take some photos, then I will take the camera home, photoshop them, write some words on them and post them up.

In the interim .................. IT AIN'T THAT HARD.

Find the power steering cooler connections (there are only 2) and follow them. The outlet goes back to the reservoir, that is not hard to find. If you follow the other connection (that's the inlet) you will find that it goes to the HICAS solenoids. Remember which hose it is, I will call it hose #1.

Now follow the outlet pipework from the HICAS pump, that's the rear stage on the power steering pump. You will find it goes under the engine, and comes out near the HICAS solenoids. I will call that one hose #2.

Using a short (about 150 mm) long piece of rubber (low pressure ) power steeing hose join #1 to #2. Don't forget to use hose clamps.

All up it should take less than 10 minutes.

:P cheers :D

  • 2 weeks later...

From yet ANOTHER HICAS thread.................

I have marked up the HICAS schematic;

The Blue dot is the power steering cooler

The Red dots should be joined together, this bypasses the HICAS solenoids completely.

HICAS_Schematic_Bypass1.jpg

No cutting of pipes required, around those locations you will find the steel pipework has clamped rubber hose sections, just remove the (short) hoses and substitute them with the new (longer) piece of joining hose. If you are not removing the rest of the HICAs system, then block off the (no longer used) hoses to keep the crap out. There will be power steeing fluid trapped in the hoses, so make sure the capping is liquid proof.

:P cheers :)

Edited by Sydneykid
From yet ANOTHER HICAS thread.................

I have marked up the HICAS schematic;

How do the wheels return to 0 degrees on the '32 gtr system?

The diagram seems to imply that there is a spring, so that when the pump is not on, it will return to centre.

I am asking, because my gts4 has had the wires cut to the hicas unit, and somehow the rear wheels remain straight...

Perhaps my GTR is different, or I'm looking at the wrong pipes, because when I follow the piping from the rear stage of my PS pump I only see high pressure hose and screw on fittings?

Yes, that's correct, what else did you expect to see?

;) cheers :huh:

From reading this thread I was expecting to see a clamped rubber hose somewhere between the pump and HICAS solinoid, isn't that hose #2 from your previous post?

last time i looked there was a small giraffe eating a ham and pineapple pizza :mellow:

gurglr i think what sk is saying is that once you loop the line so it bypasses the hicas solenoid there is no pressure so no need to use pressure hose.

last time i looked there was a small giraffe eating a ham and pineapple pizza :D

gurglr i think what sk is saying is that once you loop the line so it bypasses the hicas solenoid there is no pressure so no need to use pressure hose.

Ok, but its pressure hose all the way from the pump to the HICAS solenoid.

Hose clamp fitting on the input to the cooler, hose #1, but where on hose #2 to join a low pressure hose and clamp?

Ok, but its pressure hose all the way from the pump to the HICAS solenoid.

Hose clamp fitting on the input to the cooler, hose #1, but where on hose #2 to join a low pressure hose and clamp?

if hose #2 = cooler outlet to solenoid, substitute that and run a low pressure one from the cooler outlet all the way to the reservoir. clamps are fine each end. use existing plumbing where you can. if you're saying that you have high pressure cooler outlet fittings maybe it is different.

if that doesn't make sense post up a couple of pics, maybe it is different.

mine runs pump>rack inlet>rack outlet>cooler> reservoir but it's a little different to the set up described here and has the 2nd stage removed.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah we keep on in the dailies, it is pretty poor how many animals get hit and the driver leaves without checking....have saved a couple of little ones over the years. Bit of a gruesome job though, pouches generally need to be cut open because they are so tight and often the joey doesn't realise mum is gone so they are still locked onto the teat. I checked the modules in front of the DS wheel where an oil cooler should go.... There is the radar unit - that can go for race use) One of the 2 HX water pumps, the silver cylinder. That needs to be kept but might be able to be relocated But the bad news, the big computer mounted vertically in front of the wheel (blocking any potential air exit) is the electric steering computer. That is required until/unless i do a hydraulic steering conversion, and in CAD based modern car design it is not like I can just pop a big unit like that somewhere else (plus the loom would be too short anywhere else too). So, the passenger side is OK to clear out (just use a smaller washer reservoir, potentially elsewhere), but the DS no beuno
    • Well, all the best with the new camry It was interesting to hear about the UK process, it is generally a lot more streamlined here with a shipping agent looking after all the import side (noting the exact final price can still be a surprise.....) and I've used a few different brokers on the japan (or US) side, and never had any trouble with any of them....luck of the draw I guess. You mentioned you didn't get the auction sheet (understandable since you bought it from a dealer, not auction), but I always try and get hold of that because they are pretty thorough. I've imported 2x R grade vehicles over the years and both were fine, repairs in Japan are pretty thorough compared to here in Oz.
    • BTW I measured the jack I have, it is 70mm at the saddle but you only have about 700 until it returns to 150mm high at the cylinder so it is good but no magic bullet.
    • My experience with Rising Sun Exports Before agreeing to the sale I tried to do as much research as I could (obviously), his Facebook reviews are 98% and he goes Live at least once or twice a week. I contacted 2 people in the UK who had used him for their imports, both had positive feedback. His explanation and talk through of the import process was thorough, answering any query no matter how stupid it was. It felt as soon as the money was sent, communication dropped off. I asked for shipping updates every 2 weeks or so, not wanting to pester him, he never had any updates. I wasn't informed the car had been dropped off at the port, I only found out by his Facebook story. I asked for the photos taken at the port, knowing he would need some for insurance purposes. I received a few 5 second clips and that's it. When asked again, he said his staff had them. Weeks later I asked again, he tells me he doesn't have any, but does have 50 photos from the original advert. I never received them. I eventually got the documents sent via WhatsApp after I mentioned the port was requesting them. I purchased a CarVX report, to find out the vehicle is a Grade R with recorded accident damage, first recorded in 2017 when it was first auctioned. He never told me the grade, then again I didn't ask. His response was "Grade R means nothing, it wasn't chassis damage". Still, I would have liked to have been informed about it. Jon prides himself on being open and honest when it comes to inspecting cars, it's his main job doing so at the auctions for customers. When the vehicle arrived in the UK I noticed a few little cosmetic issues. It's a 21 year old car so it wasn't going to be mint condition. The side skirts are cracked on each corner and the sealant is failing. The front grill on the bonnet/hood isn't secured very well, mounting studs are missing. Both minor things, but again, it would have been nice to be told. During a Facebook Live walk around video of the vehicle, he mentioned it has a front Whiteline anti roll bar/sway bar. While on the inspection ramp, I noticed the stock item has been installed. When first questioned, his response was "the ARB? Switched? Since when, it never had them". Since sending video and photo evidence I've not received a response. I'm probably being over critical of the overall condition of an old car, but all I wanted was honesty (which he claims to have). I'm aware I wasn't his only customer, he's busy doing XYZ but other reviews praise him for great communication with regular updates and photos, I felt I didn't receive the same treatment. 
    • I was able to get some underside photos while the car was on the ramp The suspension is all Altezza/IS200/IS300 so getting part's will hopefully be less of a headache
×
×
  • Create New...