Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 4 weeks later...

I just ordered one of those Tomei HICAS Lock Bars....I have been told it stiffens up the rear end (,gets rid of the HICAS dash light) and makes cornering more "driver controlled" ... is that right?

Also, is the power steering fluid reservior a smallish container next to the brake booster. And does it look like a small brake booster setup?. I'm asking because what ever that is, on my GTR, it has very dirty fluid in it and was wondering how I could drain it out to refill it?

cheers

Also, is the power steering fluid reservior a smallish container next to the brake booster. And does it look like a small brake booster setup?. I'm asking because what ever that is, on my GTR, it has very dirty fluid in it and was wondering how I could drain it out to refill it?

cheers

No that is for the clutch booster. The power steering reservoir is next to the air filter box in the engine bay.

ok.. so is this where you can loop it?? ts just on the RHS under the starter motor...where the fuel lines, etc go to the back of the car as well there is about 6 pipes going back there.

this is for R32 GTS-T but I assume its similar to GTR HICAS setup.

post-1332-1137988270.jpg

Hey Gary, did you get a chance to take some pics of the loops at all?

Cheers

PS got my swaybars and alignment stuff on Friday, thanks

Hey Gary....picsorban....everyone is waiting...it sounds like the ideal setup...love some pictures to see what/how you did it....a picture tells 1000 words....it also saves a lot of typing.

The R32GTST is in the workshop in pieces, I will have to assemble the HICAS bypass to the suggested method. It is currently being modded to take a larger power steering cooler.

I am not in the workshop, I don't go there every day

There is no digital camera in the workshop, last time I took the digital camera to the workshop it got borrowed and dissappeard for 3 weeks. The time before that I went to take some photos and SOMEONE had let the batteries go flat. You know who you are.

There is no PC in the workshop and no internet connection.

When I am next in the workshop with a digital camera with good batteries, I will take some photos, then I will take the camera home, photoshop them, write some words on them and post them up.

In the interim .................. IT AIN'T THAT HARD.

Find the power steering cooler connections (there are only 2) and follow them. The outlet goes back to the reservoir, that is not hard to find. If you follow the other connection (that's the inlet) you will find that it goes to the HICAS solenoids. Remember which hose it is, I will call it hose #1.

Now follow the outlet pipework from the HICAS pump, that's the rear stage on the power steering pump. You will find it goes under the engine, and comes out near the HICAS solenoids. I will call that one hose #2.

Using a short (about 150 mm) long piece of rubber (low pressure ) power steeing hose join #1 to #2. Don't forget to use hose clamps.

All up it should take less than 10 minutes.

:P cheers :D

  • 2 weeks later...

From yet ANOTHER HICAS thread.................

I have marked up the HICAS schematic;

The Blue dot is the power steering cooler

The Red dots should be joined together, this bypasses the HICAS solenoids completely.

HICAS_Schematic_Bypass1.jpg

No cutting of pipes required, around those locations you will find the steel pipework has clamped rubber hose sections, just remove the (short) hoses and substitute them with the new (longer) piece of joining hose. If you are not removing the rest of the HICAs system, then block off the (no longer used) hoses to keep the crap out. There will be power steeing fluid trapped in the hoses, so make sure the capping is liquid proof.

:P cheers :)

Edited by Sydneykid
From yet ANOTHER HICAS thread.................

I have marked up the HICAS schematic;

How do the wheels return to 0 degrees on the '32 gtr system?

The diagram seems to imply that there is a spring, so that when the pump is not on, it will return to centre.

I am asking, because my gts4 has had the wires cut to the hicas unit, and somehow the rear wheels remain straight...

Perhaps my GTR is different, or I'm looking at the wrong pipes, because when I follow the piping from the rear stage of my PS pump I only see high pressure hose and screw on fittings?

Yes, that's correct, what else did you expect to see?

;) cheers :huh:

From reading this thread I was expecting to see a clamped rubber hose somewhere between the pump and HICAS solinoid, isn't that hose #2 from your previous post?

last time i looked there was a small giraffe eating a ham and pineapple pizza :mellow:

gurglr i think what sk is saying is that once you loop the line so it bypasses the hicas solenoid there is no pressure so no need to use pressure hose.

last time i looked there was a small giraffe eating a ham and pineapple pizza :D

gurglr i think what sk is saying is that once you loop the line so it bypasses the hicas solenoid there is no pressure so no need to use pressure hose.

Ok, but its pressure hose all the way from the pump to the HICAS solenoid.

Hose clamp fitting on the input to the cooler, hose #1, but where on hose #2 to join a low pressure hose and clamp?

Ok, but its pressure hose all the way from the pump to the HICAS solenoid.

Hose clamp fitting on the input to the cooler, hose #1, but where on hose #2 to join a low pressure hose and clamp?

if hose #2 = cooler outlet to solenoid, substitute that and run a low pressure one from the cooler outlet all the way to the reservoir. clamps are fine each end. use existing plumbing where you can. if you're saying that you have high pressure cooler outlet fittings maybe it is different.

if that doesn't make sense post up a couple of pics, maybe it is different.

mine runs pump>rack inlet>rack outlet>cooler> reservoir but it's a little different to the set up described here and has the 2nd stage removed.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • With stone chips, you really can't just try to fill them. You really have to sand that spot to lower the edges of the chip, so that the filler will end up covering a wider patch than just the chip. Otherwise, you're trying to have a sharp edged paint surface match up to some filler, and they just do not sand the same and you always end up with a noticable transition. A bunch of adjacent chips should be well sanded back, to round off all those edges, and use a lot (in a relative sense) of filler to raise the whole area back.
    • To expand on this to help understanding... The bigger/longer the block is, the more it's going to work to sit on your far away high areas, and not touch the low stuff in the middle. When you throw the guide coat, and give it a quick go with a big block, guide coat will disappear in the high spots. If those high spots are in the correct position where the panel should be, stop sanding, and fill the low spots. However, using a small block, you "fall off" one of the high spots, and now your sanding the "side of the hill". Your little block would have been great for the stone chips, where you only use a very small amount of filler, so you're sanding and area let's say the size of a 5/10cent piece, with something that is 75*150. For the big panel, go bigger!   And now I'll go back to my "body work sucks, it takes too much patience, and I don't have it" PS, I thought your picture with coloured circles was an ultra sound... That's after my brain thought you were trying to make a dick and balls drawing...
    • Oh I probably didn't speak enough about the small sanding block for blocking large areas.  In the video about 3 minutes in, he talks about creating valleys in the panel. This is the issue with using a small sanding block for a large area, it's way too easy to create the valleys he is talking about. With a large block its much easier to create a nice flat surface.  Hard to explain but in practice you'll notice the difference straight away using the large block. 
    • Yep I guessed as much. You'll find life much easier with a large block something like this -  https://wholesalepaint.com.au/products/dura-block-long-hook-loop-sanding-block-100-eva-rubber-af4437 This is a good demo video of something like this in use -    You have turned your small rock chip holes into large low spots. You'll need to fill and block these low spots.  It's always a little hard not seeing it in person, but yes I would go ahead and lay filler over the whole area. Have a good look at the video I linked, it's a very good example of all the things you're doing. They went to bare metal, they are using guide coat, they are doing a skim coat with the filler and blocking it back. If what you're doing doesn't look like what they are doing, that's a big hint for you  
×
×
  • Create New...