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By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol

I got back to Japan in January and was keen to get back on track as quickly as possible. Europe is god-awful for track accessibility (by comparison), so I picked up a first-gen GT86 in December just to have something I could jump into right away. The Skyline came over in a container this time and landed in early January. It was a bit battered after Europe, though—I refused to do anything beyond essential upkeep while it was over there. The clutch master cylinder gave out, and so did the power steering. I didn’t even bother changing the oil; it was the same stuff that went in just before I left Japan the first time. Naughty. Power steering parts would’ve cost double with shipping and taxes, so knowing I’d be heading back to Japan, I just postponed it and powered through the arm workout. It took a solid three months to get the car back on the road. Registration was a nightmare this time around. There were a bunch of BS fees to navigate, and sourcing parts was a headache. I needed stock seats for shaken, mistakenly blew 34k JPY on some ENR34 seats—which, of course, didn’t fit—then ended up having the car’s technical sheet amended to register it as a two-seater with the Brides. Then there’s the GT86. Amazing car. Does everything I want it to do. Parts are cheap, easy to find, and I don’t care what anyone says—it’s super rewarding to drive. I’ve done a few basic mods: diff ratio, coilovers, discs, pads, seat, etc. It already had a new exhaust manifold and the 180kph limiter removed, so I assume it’s running some kind of map. I’ve just been thrashing it at the track non-stop—mostly Fuji Speedway now, since I need something with higher speed after all that autobahn time. The wheels on the R34 always pissed me off—too big, and it was a nightmare getting tires to fit properly under the arches. So I threw in the towel and bought something that fits better. Looks way cleaner too (at least to me)—less hotboy, less attention-seeking. Still an R34, though. Now for future plans. There are a few things still outstanding with the car. First up, the rear subframe needs an overhaul—that’s priority one. Next, I need to figure out an engine rebuild plan. No timeline yet, but I want to keep it economical—not cutting corners, just not throwing tens of thousands at a mechanic I can barely communicate with. And finally, paint. Plus a bit of tidying up here and there.

Nope, needed to clearance under the bar a little with a heat gun, a 1/2" extension as the "clearancer", and big hammer, I was aware of this from the onset, they fit a 2.0 with this intake no problems, but, the 2.5 is around 15mm taller than a 2.0, so "clearancing" was required It "just" touched when test fitting, now, I have about 10mm of clearance You cannot see where it was done, and so far, there's no contact when giving it the beans Happy days

It's been a while since I've updated this thread. The last year (and some) has been very hectic. In the second-half of 2024 I took the R34 on a trip through Germany, Italy, France and Switzerland - it was f*cking great. I got a little annoyed with the attention the car was getting around Europe and really didn't drive it that much. I could barely work on the car since I was living in an inner-city apartment (with underground parking). During the trip, the car lost power steering in France - split hose - and I ended up driving around 4,000kms with no power steering. There were a few Nurburgring trips here and there, but in total the R34 amassed just shy of 7,000kms on European roads. Long story short, I broke up with the reason I was transferred to Europe for and requested to be moved back to Japan. The E90, loved it. It was a sunk cost of around EUR 10,000 and I sold it to a friend for EUR 1,500 just to get rid of it quickly. Trust me, moving countries f*cking sucks and I could not be bothered to be as methodical as I was the first time around.

The final part arrived today to un-clampify and simplify the intake Who would have though a 1/2" hose stainless bulkhead fitting designed for below waterline bilge pumps would be what I needed Test fit on a 3" offcut I had laying around to see if it would work, and it worked a treat All going well the intake will be on its "final version" tomorrow

Good luck on the weekend mate

I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down. This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld. The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA

Cats are called Bella, and Donna... Like that poisonous plant And I remember your 2 monsters, I remember making a little bit of wee when you let them out... LOL I have already installed cat doors into the laundry where their kitty litter is, and the sun room, apart from the cat doors there's not going to be any permanent mounted stuff on the interior walls (interior doors are cheap and easy to replace) I will get a outdoor cat cage thingie once I finish the landscaping out back... https://catnip.com.au/ The only off limit areas are the main bedroom and the gym room....but, currently the cats are curled up in bed, in the main bedroom with the Mrs.....LOL, the off limits for the kittens to the main bedroom lasted about 5 minutes with Jackie I currently only have 1 free standing huge cat tree multiple level scratching post thingie in the lounge room, but, I will be getting another one soon now that I'm happy with the furniture layout in the back room and have a perfect spot for it

I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this. The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder. The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals. The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market. It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them. Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal in Australia - if that's where you are).

I felt this.

Well as expected the ECU wasn't getting proper manifold pressure reading. Once I switched to a 3rd vacuum line directly off the back of the manifold the car runs amazing. Still slightly lean on full throttle but only like 15 AFR, probably fixable with some tuning.

I work at a car detailing and tinting shop called Quark which gets all manner of German cars in usually (mainly due to a contract with Mercedes Benz Kita Osaka, BMW Nishinomiya and others) but every once in a while something special comes in, like a fully restored 1972 HS30 Nissan Fairlady 240ZG... The shop owner had immediately started applying film to the windows as soon as it was in the shop so the interior was completely covered in towels and plastic sheets. But I could get a few photos of the engine bay which was restored like new. Such an amazing car to see in pristine condition in Japan these days.

I couldn't wait But, the black constant tension hose clamps were too thick and there wasn't enough clearance at the T/B and I couldn't get it to seat properly, so I had use a silver one there I also added some 3" silicone over the alloy bit that goes through to hole on the radiator support as it looked like it was sitting on the edge of the hole in the radiator support, I never noticed a rattle or anything, but there was a witness mark It is basicly done, and I can live with the silver hose clamp at the T/B, I will get a black clamp for the head vent though where it is attached to the bulkhead fitting It never stops...LOL, only issue now with the shock tower brace is it slightly touches the under bonnet liner now, if I leave it it will either wear some paint off the brace where it touches, or damage the liner, so I removed the liner to see what I have to work with, with the liner removed I have about 20mm of clearance, but sadly the middle part of the underside of the bonnet is only dusted with paint and looks crap, so I cannot have that, but.... as I have a roll of Carbuilders premium under bonnet insulation in the garage laying around that is only 5.5mm thick (we were going to use it on the boys Patrol, but he crashed the front of it a few months and it was written off, hence why he now drives my old Honda Accord Euro), I'll use the OEM liner as a template and get the Carbuilders stuff fitted up to cover that dusted paint up

LOL.... you are correct there.

I think Greg just needs to wrap himself in bubble wrap and stay inside...

All of this is making it seem clear that running the Coppermix twin was definitely the way to go, especially in hindsight with how insane tariffs have gotten and the strength of the USD vs yen at the time.

Yep, it was only an option on the Q50 Hybrid. Same in Japan as far as I know. And doesn't use a centre diff like the Suby's do, so not the same as the WRX. But it also isn't a reactive AWD like other Nissan AWD vehicles are, eg. Murano/Xtrail/etc.

You should have got a Maine Coone then. Only thing is they're big. But so cool, and just like a dog. Or, just get yourself a high performance dog. That'll teach you for wanting Parkour indoors 😛

Are you thinking of Bens R32? I don't remember if his went through the bonnet itself, but it went through the chassis rail. Brad (RISKIN) bought it, and turned it into a track car. It's funny how anti people are of Jim Berry now. I remember when I pulled mine out (during an engine change) and inspected it and found it cracking badly. At that point in time so many people were even on SAU, were so pro Jim Berry, and that was after Bens GTR exploded his quite publically.

It always seems the uglier an animal is the more is costs

That is horrid. Reminds me of the time that R32 send the clutch through the bonnet, then the guy tried to sell his car using those pictures.

At least yours have parkour down pat. One of mine will still trip over his own shadow and fall over... He's a special type of cat... Ha ha ha

Your chihuahuas look weird!

Call me the "Crazy Cat Man"...., maybe that should be my new forum name....LOL....., but seriously.....someone change it please, thanks Just grabbed the two black Oriental kittens that I ordered a few months ago to guard the house, I am assuming that because they are Orientals they know KungFu, Karate, or are Ninjas, or some other lethal fighting skill, even at only 3 months old they already have Parkour down pat Introducing...Bella & Donna

PXL_20250828_063541093.TS.mp4

EMU Classic. For what I need it to do I see no reason to upgrade. Link and Haltech would both cost an extra chunk of money for a lot of unutilized features

The Haltech Nexus plug in looks pretty sexy...

There was posted some where on here recently, about how to change resistors/open some connections/close other connections, and it can alter the speed output, if the gearbox is sending the signal to dash, and then dash to ecu.

The fancy pants red shock tower brace is finally incoming from MX5 Mania, getting it shipped from 'Merica has been a long and problematic process, and GWR, the 'Merican supplier will not ship directly to consumers outside of the US, Mania basically had to order a heap of them, the colour choice was silver, or red, and we all know anything red adds 5 killerwasps of dynotorques..... Whilst it does fit over a 2.5, and I've seen a few photos and videos of it being installed and fitting, google also says it might get real close to the FAB9 intake front runner, people in the US says it does fit with the FAB9 intake, except for one person who said it slightly touched.......so there is that.....LOL..... As it seems that I am the first in AU to have this combination of parts there's no local knowledge about fitment, so I'm just a willing guinea pig in this endeavour, I'll cross my fingers and toes and hope for the best In other news, I ordered stuff from China on the same day I ordered the 23° silicone bend from Victoria, the stuff from China arrived a day ago, the 23° silicone bend is still travelling around Australia thanks to Australia Post, and "may" be here next week

And this guy, classic:

For that I need an engine overhaul 🤣

It's highly likely you will find something. Alternatively, a quick design and order online from chaina and you'll have a perfect solution

Well they got my money but they are not getting my gearbox !

People said the same thing when the R35 going into development was announced.

Any motive drag video at Coota.

Resizing injectors in Nistune can be done a couple of ways, and there are a couple of ways that you can make a mess of it. The tuner needs to be really aware of the effects of whichever approach he uses (either K, or TIM). They are both easy enough to "get the injector size right" to run the engine. But little details like old start enrichment and hot start are affected differently, depending on which boxes you check.

Pretty safe to say almost everyone that has tuned their own car has experienced this issue. The difference being that we have our laptop in the car and when it happens, it's literally 10 seconds of tuning to sort it. Would you be happy to plug in your laptop and sort this yourself? It is a very simple process and there is no risk of harming your engine (if you are worried about that).

9" +35 will rub on the suspension. R33 GTR wheels are +30.

@GTSBoy This method was able to get readings of -10 to -2, so it looks like its monitoring. Now I need to figure out why the vacuum on the line provided isn't alternating with manifold pressure. I went with 2 lines that an RB25 tuner recommended but I'll get a longer hose and try directly off the back of the manifold. He may have been used to OEM intake setups while I have a DBW setup that removed the MAF and IACV.

Was going to say the car pulls up nicely everywhere, especially going into that last long right hander before the main straight. Looks like a lot of fun.

See if you can thermal epoxy a heatsink or two onto it?

It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag. I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility 3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack.

Correct. Um. I dunno. I haven't cared enough about the way that the NA cars work to know for sure. But..... The 33/34 turbo manual cars have an electronic speed sensor in the gearbox that outputs a +/- (ie, sawtooth AC) voltage signal. That is connected to the speedo. The speedo then outputs a 0-5v square wave (ie, PWM) signal that the ECU (and any other CU on the bus) sees. The speed sensor is NOT directly connected to the ECU. So here's the problem. Your new ECU expects to see the PWM signal, but must somehow be getting a direct signal from the diff speed sensor. Which would suggest that the wiring of the NA car is not the same as the turbo cars. I think you will need to spend some time with (hopefully the wiring diagram for the car) and a multimeter to see what is connected to what. Then, presuming I am correct**, you would then want to separate the ECU speed signal input from the rest of the car's wiring, and probably either buy a speed signal converter, or build one using an arduino (or similar). That would take in the speed sensor signal and output a scaled (and suitably rearranged) signal for the ECU. ** We shouldn't presume that I am correct here, because there might be something else crazy going on. I don't think you could convert the speedo to be fed from the gearbox sensor, because the pulse rate from that sensor is probably different to the diff sensor and then the speedo would read wrongly. And this also wouldn't fix the ECU's problem either, because the ECU doesn't want to see the gearbox signal direct either (assuming that they are all on the same wiring, for some odd NA related reason, see above caveat!) Does this help? Probably not. Can you make it work? Almost certainly. With the above work. You should buy a handheld oscilloscope from Aliexpress so that you can view these signals directly. Connect up the probes and drive the car. Show photos of the screen when drving at known speeds and connected to different places, and we'll see what we can learn about it.

To be fair it's the other way around. 300kw is boring in a modern Golf or BMW. They are so competent / well-engineered / devoid of emotion that you have to go stupid fast to feel anything. Whereas the <300kw RB still makes all the right noises and it feels good to drive. Can pull off at the lights with the turbo whooshing and the blow-off pssshing and feel like the coolest kid on the block. Just don't look to the side where you'll see the bored housewifes in their shitbox Yaris/Corolla/Camry that kept up because you didn't go fast at all

300kW is so boring in a Skyline, you'll get spanked by someone's mum's Golf with Alibaba pipes, and an email tune.

If only Brock had forked out the extra $10k for an SS at the time, then this car would be worth something

Trying to find a rich collector I see. I love their comment "it's cheap if you compare it to the price of Carol Shelby's personal cars at $23mill"

Even with the piston at TDC there was room for it to drop, but I don't think it can drop fully into the cylinder, the problem you have is that you need something pushing against the valve to hold it up so you have enough room to put the new stem seal on and the spring etc. I used compressed air only because putting rope in the cylinder seemed a bit risky to me, I know people have done it countless times before like this. Overall it's a pain in the ass job. Honestly you'd probably be better off taking the head off because the risk of dropping something in the engine and the finicky-ness of it all is very stressful. If you are going to attempt it though i 10000% recommend a 36050 valve spring/keeper tool. I had both the traditional lever type and after doing 1 cylinder it was absolute pain to get those valve keepers in place, even with 2 people. That 36050 is amazing, you do have to push hard to get them in place but it works perfectly almost every time. Back to my actual issue I think my engine is just tired and old and the rings have gone bad. The comp numbers (cold, no oil) were: Cyl 1 -129psi Cyl 2 - 133psi Cyl 3 - 138psi Cyl 4 - 137psi Cyl 5 - 157psi Cyl 6 - 142psi Cylinder 5 and 6 having the most carbon on them.

Went to a drift practice day at a local circuit (held on the reserve parking area behind the grandstand) for the first time in about 15 years. Some kei cars were drifting as well, a not so surprising Suzuki Carry truck, and two 1st gen Daihatsu Copens that were converted to rear wheel drive(!) using Daihatsu Boon X4 transfer case, prop shaft and rear diff, obviously omitting the front driveshafts. They looked really fun to slide. I heard that they cost "about half" as much as a Nissan Silvia etc to run. On the track 'Tech M' a local BMW tuning garage had a customer track day. Mainly recent models but there was one E36 which looked ancient among all the current models. It was cool watching the drifting and then turning around and seeing random people thrashing their M3/4s central-circuit-drift-practice-2025-05-18-long-yt.mp4

I have a 2 door, manual r34 gt-four (had it about 2months now) and not many people really know the facts about their set-up, and this is only what i have found after reading up but mostly just driving the car. 1. Yes it uses the same atessa system as the gtr (which is only the computer side of things) 2. No its not a gtr gearbox, its definately not the r34 gtr box cause thats 6 spd, and the gt-four just doesnt "feel" strong like a gtr box, i would say its more along the lines internally of a rb25de box (same as a rb20det) or maybe a rb25det with the obvious casing changes to attach a transfer box. 3. No you cannot pull a fuse and turn it into rwd, that ONLY works for the r32's. Like previously said the car will go into a limp mode. Driving around like this will damage the front diffs clutches. Apparently you can disconnect the front shafts and it will go to rwd but the amont of effort to do it, just by a gtst. 4. HKS torque splitters can be fitted to adjust how much power is distributed to the front and rear. There is NO way to turn all the power to the rear, even with maximum power set to the rear, there will still be about 5% of the power still being sent to the front diff, which means no sitting on the brakes doing a big trev skid. Although, with about 95% of the power going to the rear, that should be enough to step out around corners. 5. At the stock power level, the car just feels safe to drive in the dry around any corner. I can boot first gear take a 90 degree bend while smashing second and the ass end will attempt to come out but then the front just grips and puts you straight ahead, the car will understeer before it oversteers into a corner. The wet is another story, since it is mainly rwd it will go VERY sideways if pushed but its a very easily controlled sideways since you can always feel the front helping you stay in control. So pretty much what i'm saying is if you want to go "drifting" like intial D in this car wait till its wet, go to somewhere quite, and have all the fun then, otherwise get a gtst. 6. The rb26 can bolt straight up and id say that once that was done, even in the dry the awd system will be smoking all fours around corners. A more budjet friendly solution is to get a stegea neo rb25det, change the front diff over with the stock gtfour one and your have a 206kw motor in your car cheap. Another good reason to go the stegea motor is that you stock gtfour harness will bolt up and the r34 ecu is flashable so you can get it retuned without spending dollars on a new ecu or piggy back. Im planning to put a stagea motor in my car, and the more i learn about the gt-four i will post up cause its a bit of a mystery...