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Hi SAU, Looking to buy a healthy R34 GTR Getrag 6 gearbox. It's going into an R33 GTR, so if you have any of the conversion pieces (diffs, drive shafts, mounts, etc.) i'll also be interested in those. Please contact me here. Thanks, Josh

pm'd

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Yeah the vents are functional (http://topstage.com/product/v3-twin-aero-vents-type-1/), custom mounted by previous owner. As for the wheels; TE37SL pressed graphite. Yeah haven't seen anyone else with these garage defend type canards, or this type of gt wing either.

Bump!!!

Hi guys, finally have been able to check car again today (been very busy). Went for a drive again, refrained from giving it any stick, no battery light no charging issue (20min drive with two 'car off then car on' situations). The moment I accelerate hard, guess what, light comes on. Had a talk with my mechanic, says its definitely a wire that's loose somewhere since I'm able to cruise without issue, without boost of course. Recommended just wiggling appropriate wires till I find the culprit. I've gone and done this, battery terminal seems scratched up, cable seems fine no rust at all. As for the negative cable to the chassis, is this the one below the front fuse box? If it is, it looks fine, but I'll be giving it a clean soon. I'm rather inexperienced, where exactly is/are the chassis ground/s? As for checking the alternator cables, is it simple as reaching through to the back of the unit and checking if anything is loose? The mechanic says it could be any cable from battery to alternator, to fuse box, to engine, etc. How would I be able to check any of these? I should've asked him, but I felt he was a little busy. Would I be able to check all these cables/wires just from the engine bay, or would I need to go through interior (rear shelf/seat area) or boot?

Alrighty, went for a drive (car driving like shit due to the aforementioned AFRs/lack of voltage supply to injectors) hooked up multi-meter at different points of time and got the following results: Car off: 13v front fuse box and rear (battery) Idle: [NO warning light] 14.38v front and 14.25v rear First time hitting boost (~15mins of driving): [Warning light comes on] 12.28v front and 12.3v rear ~30mins of driving: [Warning light still on] 11.87v front and 11.84v rear Car off: 12.24v front and 12.18v rear So just like when I first encountered this problem, the light comes on when I give it a hit on the throttle for the first time on a drive. I always let the car warm up before I play around. I'm not the most mechanically minded individual but could it be possible that hitting boost is causing some sort of surge? As I continued driving, the light would flicker on/off when I would increase throttle position... sometimes. Other times, even if I reach 7000rpm the warning would remain. Is it normal for any car to have a higher voltage reading after a drive than during the drive? Are you referring to the grounds? If you are, I only know of one (next to front fuse box). This looked fine in terms of tightness and contact. No idea where the other grounds are lol. If this is the case then do you think my mechanic will fix it (for free)? After all they did do the work and said it was new. Anyway is it possible to access this wire without lifting the vehicle (don't have the tools)? I had a look today and all I can see is a plug that attaches to the side of the unit. Don't remember being able to reach the back, or maybe I didn't try hard enough lol? Before the drive I did a thorough check to see if any fuse/terminal was loose, and well everything was tight and properly contacting. What else should I check? Thanks again guys

Hi SAU, Been having issues with my R33 GT-R. Battery warning light comes on at random times. Recently (1.5 months ago) had new alternator fitted, and new battery fitted (2 months ago). Car is used once a week and is always hooked up to a trickle charger. Between the time I had the new alternator fitted and today, car was running perfect, i.e no warning lights. Was at a stop light and decided to give it a 1st gear pull. What ensued was the battery warning light turning on and my tune getting messed up (AFRs reaching 15.9 with no throttle input, misfiring etc). Kept cruising for a bit, then decided to pullover and shut car off. Once I got going again warning light was gone, only for it to come back after a couple of hundred meters of driving. It should also be noted this is at night, with lights, and radio on only. I noticed that the warning light would turn off if I revved the car up aggressively (5000rpm+), at a stand still. Once revs dropped, light comes back on. However revving it up whilst moving would do nothing. Also when driving on bumpy parts of road, light flicks on and off, something must be loose right? I checked on the front and rear fuse boxes and everything seems to be plugged in. The high beams also struggle. The right side high beam comes on immediately while the left one has a little stroke before fully turning on. Oh and battery terminals are on nice and tight. Any ideas? I don't run any gear that would have heavy battery draw, and I get the car worked on by a reputable mechanic. In saying that, would it be possible for the alternator or battery to be malfunctioning this early in their lifespans? The car has traveled roughly 1000km+ since the new alternator was installed, no issues at all during that time. I will say though, the battery voltage while driving has never exceeded 13 volts, usually 12.x (with this new alternator). I think 14.x+ is the norm. Before I got this new alternator the voltage reading was around 10 to 11. When I got home I hooked up the trickle charger and it took a while for the light to go green (charged/maintaining). Usually after a drive, short or long, the red light on the trickle charger only lasts for less than 10secs, sometimes it goes green straight away. But today it took considerably longer than usual to go green, indicating the battery was not charging(?). Any and all help appreciated guys and gals, will have a chat to mechanic on Monday, however I thought I'd see if I could get quick help and fix straight away.

Hi SAU, For sale is one of my Drift Blade, R34 GT-R replica, seats. Excellent/unused condition. NO RAILS with sale. $320.00 but open to offers Drift as a company are no longer existent. Purchased from friend back in the day with intentions of installing, but never got around to doing so. They've been sitting in storage all this time. As for rails you would need Bride MO Type rails corresponding to your vehicle. Contact me through here or text me on 0403677341

Bump, open to offers

Hi SAU, As title says, looking for a p-platers skyline for my brother. Will be used as a daily, so a reliable example would be most desirable. - must be manual, coupe, and n/a (GTS or 25GT) - maximum budget of $7500 - must be healthy mechanically for age (no leaks in engine, no gear crunching, etc) - not to fussed on interior/exterior condition (a bit of color fade not an issue) - r32 and r34 would be top preference, but r33 which meets requirement will also be considered (already have an r33) - any color - registrable in VIC - prefer it come with RWC, or at least in a condition where RWC would be easily obtainable - VIC located cars only please Contact me through this forum or PM me. Thanks, Josh

As title says. Looking to fit it on my R33 GT-R. Looking for one in above average condition. Message me on here or sms me on 0403677341. Thanks, Josh

PM sent

Anyone?

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Any reasonable offer will be considered. Items located in SE subs Melbourne. Not willing to post interstate sorry.  A full Conceptual Polymer Oil and Air Separator Kit. Glass kit, never been used. Not too knowledgeable on this kit as it came as bonus parts when purchasing my car. - $300 ono - Comes with everything you see in the pictures - American made - Full specifications on invoice in picture below - New condition   Border Racing Carbon Fiber R33 GT-R Front Ducts. Purchased this with the intent of installing of my vehicle, but plans changed. Never been used. - $200 ono - Front bar needs to be cut for installation - Can be mounted with adhesives/sealants or bolted on with rivets - Cars below are examples of what they look like attached - New condition Voltex Style 'Carbon Fiber' GT Wing Stands and base mounts. Does not come with actual wing or bolts/nuts. - $50 ono per set - Pair of stands - Pair of base mounts - Feel free to contact me regarding measurements - New condition

Wheels SOLD

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SOLD

Never been used before Kapture KPT-850 dash cam, and brand new SanDisk Ultra 64GB micro SDXC card with adapter -$190 or near offer, (WILL NOT BE SELLING SD CARD ALONE). For cam only $160 or near offer - 1080p resolutioon - GPS playback (matches your GPS location and speed to your video) - WiFi connection to Android and IOS - 152 degree viewing angle - responds to gestures - built in G-sensor - super capacitor helps product survive up t0 70 deg Celsius, great for AU summers - SanDisk card, brand new never been opened, comes with sdxc/sdhc to sd adapter Contact me through here or on zero four 03677 three four one. Please text not call thanks.

Never been used before Scuderia Ferrari Pit Crew Black Silicone watch, official Ferrari product (model 0830278) -$120 or near offer - 30m water resistant - Again, never been used, just sitting in its case - Japanese quartz - plastic case, 45mm width and 12mm thickness - silicone strap NOT SHIPPING ANYWHERE, buyer must pick up

Bump! Wheels reduced to $900 or make me an offer, need them gone!

Wheels reduced to $1000, need them gone!

This is the one with the fins in the center. Would highly prefer CF, but if you have a painted FRP one, that might suffice. Also looking for the vortex generator attachments, same as above; prefer CF but not ruling out FRP. Prefer a VIC pickup, unless your willing to post from interstate. PM me for contact details. Thanks, Josh