WR33KD

There are a couple drift cars in nz that are running 350kw with a 20det gearbox. Not sure why there lasting but seems to be abit of a hit or miss with them

Couple pics from the weekend, now the exterior is done time for “More power baby”

NITTO NT05s are a great tyre also archilles 123s. I run the nt05s on the front and the 123s on the rear

Do you have controls on your steering wheel for the old stereo? If so you need another harness that links it all up.

The R3C in my car is great, loves a good clutch kick but in saying that now with the dog box I only use it to start and stop. I wanted the best for my build as if I increase power I no it’s there ready. A good single plate will hold down 340kw but after that your into twin plates. Tilton (maybe wrong spelt) do a pretty good twin plate, mates for one holding back 380kw

1000 will push him to 600 but at the max, 1650 would be the way to go. 1650 would be good on 98 aswell

Elbow grease?

Is your car push or pull type?

Gtr bonnet fitted and bumper and number plate fitted. GTR bonnet wasn’t even that hard to fit And had to fit s1 head lights

Mines mint she feels like a standard clutch, done plenty of hard take offs and still feels great. I’m over 400kw and rwd and it’s the bees knees and it has a changeable centre not like others

I’m guessing that’s on e85? Have you done many test with 98ron?

Could be a neo and they have changed the intake. Don’t s2 have a pressed tin cam cover not plastic?

OS R3C here aswell, only clutch you will ever need

Down the line means down the other end of the country. Hence Christchurch is down the line of where I live. Not sure how it’s done as it wasn’t me, the head alone is cost me just over 5k for the work done to it. Was either that or a neo head

My hole head got sent down the line to get built when I built my motor, if I remember right it’s in Christchurch. Was either that or change the head

You can plug hydro ones to make them solid, this makes your redline go above 7500

You can just plug them

So having the catch can return to the sump like you have, isn’t that a head drain????? I have run my 25 on the track count less times now and have never had to drain my catch can. It’s a full built motor by St-hitec here in NZ. I run an N1 oil pump with remax oil pump gears can’t remember is 79 or 81mm and a winged sump The rb26 I talked about was a new motor had just done it’s 1000km run in and it sent all the oil to the catch can and run the sump real low witch in turn run a bearing. At a quick guess a head drain could have pushed most of the oil back down to the sump, as the breathers are at the rear. It had oil restrictors and larger return gallerys but it still died and it was only a 260kw.

So what there saying if I take my head drain off and my engine starves of oil they will be rebuild it for me. Also say that RIPS doesn’t use them but he only uses NITTO branded parts in most of his builds yet NITTO has one of the most research head drains out there. Like I said I have one and for the peace of mind I would slap one on while the motor was out

Funny that we dropped a motor off there today and he asked what it was going to be used for and we told him and he wanted to install one so must be super old news about them. Also guess 80% of people haven’t put there car hard around a track and see how much oil gets dumped in to the catch can

Head drain is good if your going to hit the track of give it death around the streets, people mock it but haven’t seen what they fix. If your motor is coming out I would bang one in there for peace of mind

So we got the ppg dog box in and it’s amazing, super nervous to drive it as it sounds broken but my oh my it’s next level

Might not be super useful but a guy in nz built a 1000bhp gtr with twins http://www.themotorhood.com/themotorhood/2017/11/14/times-up-660kw-r33-gt-r-animal

Hahaha that’s a new one, nah it’s an event at Hampton downs first weekend of August,

Well good luck and have fun doing it, make sure you research before you jump in the deep end, are you going to chrome