joshuaho96

That's retrofitting the RB25 NEO NVCS system to the RB26. I'm sure there are a number of people that have done this. Personally if you can swing it I would recommend getting HKS VCAM instead, then you have continuous VVT instead of a fixed 20 degree advance or 0 degree advance setting. Obviously tuning continuous VVT is more involved but there are papers out there that show what a good VVT map looks like.

Yeah, this is an RB26. Probably should've mentioned that part.

Does the Nismo plenum make more sense then for people that want to light a lot of money on fire for basically zero benefit? They claim the intake runner length is 73.8mm compared to 48.5mm for the OEM part. Plenum volume is 4.1L vs OEM 3.4L. Supposedly cylinder 5/6 have a different runner geometry as well to try and get it to have more even air/fuel distribution.

Get some logs off of Nissan Datascan: https://www.nisscan.com/NDSI/index.php If you post a log of the issue occurring it will give a pretty good hint as to what's happening.

Sounds like you have ignition misfire under boost. Start at the spark plugs and work backwards.

RBs aren't cheap to build these days, I'm taking it easy until I can get my haltech installed and get it set up/tuned.

I was afraid to get into boost with just a turbo swap on my R33 and that's running wastegate boost on HKS GTIII-SS turbos.

While this is true, a lot of tuners out there don't care and won't take on jobs in my area if you have decided you want the engine to be built a certain way. Easier to deal with people that just say "I want 500 whp" and write a check for 30k USD or whatever.

-5s are not a 350-400 whp kind of turbo. If that's the kind of power you want you should probably source smaller turbos than that. If that's the kind of power you want you can run stock rods and pistons. Stock bottom ends have made a more than that.

Really, the whole car makes no sense but I'm here anyways.

Whatever you do, do not get Tomei USA parts. I know a guy who thought Tomei Japan and Tomei USA are the same thing. His Tomei USA cams literally did not fit in the engine. A lot of people have reported defective out of the box Tomei USA head gaskets. Tomei Japan has issued a statement out there that says explicitly that they have no control over Tomei USA and cannot be held responsible for any failures that result from their parts. Supposedly the US part numbers are actually all coming from Real Speed Engineering. I don't know what the relationship between Tomei USA and RSE is but RSE is tainted by association IMO.

I have one but I've never been super into the whole custom keyboard thing, my tastes are probably too basic to bother with anything complicated. MX Browns are kind of scratchy but they're fine.

Is it weird to want to extract more efficiency out of these engines? I have a VCAM sitting in the garage. At some point I'm hoping to do a flex fuel conversion as well to be able to push out the envelope of lambda and ignition timing. I'd love to try something crazy like water injection but it doesn't seem practical or reliable from what I've seen.

If street manners are a concern I would look into HKS VCAM as well. Has Kelford figured out how to make VCAM-compatible camshafts?

If you search it up it's a stock ceramic turbo part number.

My experience with the transmission is that synchros are very slow. I can literally count to 2 in my head for high RPM shifts. The other thing to keep in mind is that pretty much every transmission these days needs an oil with friction modifiers in it to help the synchros work correctly. This is a common issue the Miata people run into, they stick to Motorcraft manual transmission fluid because otherwise people get crunchy shifts and gear grinds on worn synchros. For a track car I would definitely rebuild with dogs. For a street car I'm not skilled enough and smoothness matters a lot so I'm sticking with synchros.

I cannot figure out what exactly it is from a distant photo, there are multiple possibilities. Figure out what is connected to what and eliminate from there. It can only be a few things, some are body related, others are ECU related.

If you can adjust dead time you shouldn't have to do a weird hack of "more injector" at low PW and "less injector" at high PW.

This would be less of a problem if the Q50/Q60 had a proper manual/performance variant. It's obvious that they could've done it but it was deleted for whatever reason. It wouldn't take much of a refresh to get the 2+2 or even performance sedan that people are looking for but knowing Nissan they probably won't bother.

https://conceptzperformance.com/blog/a-closer-look-at-the-vr30ddtts-turbochargers/ The lower power versions delete the turbo speed sensor so it's not strictly necessary per se but I bet they included it on the higher power variant to avoid scenarios like a boost leak causing the turbo to spin beyond design spec. Not sure how an electronic wastegate relates here, wouldn't closed loop boost be looking at current airflow vs target airflow?

I honestly can't tell if they just rebadged a slightly different part number for "R34 N1" turbos now that they ran out of existing stock. Poking around the internet I've seen that exact spec claimed for R34 N1 turbos, both the C106 compressor wheel and 0.6 compressor a/r. Supposedly AA403 was the -7/R1 spec, AA401/402 line up with this R3 turbo spec.

Isn't the whole point of any standalone ECU to be able to put in injector characterization data and just have everything work unlike a Nissan ECU where prior to Nistune FP you had change MAF + injector together to keep load scales roughly in the right place? Searching around online it looks pretty simple to change injector settings while keeping the rest of the map the same, just write down the old settings for injector flow/latency before you start changing things.

It's not a ZF 8 speed, the 9 speed ZF is also not very good either. It's a Mercedes 9G-Tronic.

DCT was never going to happen, it was pretty obvious from the start that this was going to be a fairly mild refresh of the 370Z. Even getting the 9G Mercedes transmission is pretty surprising IMO.

To add more comedically priced turbo kits to the mix, Nismo just announced a new R3 turbo kit to replace the R1 turbo kit: https://www.nismo.co.jp/products/nismo_parts/NEW_PARTS/index_2021.html Searching around this exact turbo has been available for a while though. No idea what's going on here and what this turbo really is.